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Published: January 17th 2007
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Elephant Hungry...
The Elephant went where he wanted to go... So, I have mood swings. No surprise to anyone that knows me... Add on cold showers, a break out, and humid weather... and you'll have yourself mood bungie-jumps... Up and down in a matter of minutes.
After spending a few days in Chang Mai, it's safe to say that I've fallen in love with the national treasure of Thailand... I stand by the statement that parts resemble a mini-Bangkok but this comparison erodes with each cool purchase, each wonderful meal, and each $2 foot massage within the massive markets. The people are fantastically wise and love their city with a deep passion that has, for many, been passed on from generation to generation. Tourism has, like every small town or large city alike, taken it's toll on Chang Mai but the deeper you venture into the culture and local hotspots, the easier it is to wipe away the western brush upon the ancient roots...
Shortly after my last blog I ventured into the city for a small tour on one of the hundreds of Tut-Tut's (mini-taxi's) that flow through the streets... The city has a millennia of history behind it and it's common to find a modern market on
Thailand Rice Fields
Beautiful scenery in Thailand... one side of the road and a 400 year old Buddhist temple on the other. I must have taken over 20 Tut-Tut's throughout my stay and I probably spent an average of $2 for each. Getting around in Chang Mai is cheap, fun, and usually informative. I met many wonderful drivers that were more than willing to tell a story about the history of the city they call home. You gotta ride the Tut-Tut's whenever you can- it's a bumpy, swirvy ride in itself, especially after a few Singa beers. Wee!
After an expensive first night (everywhere else was booked) we found ourselves a cute little motel called the Lani Mai right near the downtown night bazaar. It's central location made it easy for us to separate and do our own thing- I spent most of my days with just Daniel and a couple by myself.
One of the ways in which these motels make their wages (ours was by no means an exception) is the fact that they push a trek or tour on you everytime you step into the lobby. Thankfully these western-bate adventures are very affordable and it wasn't hard to say yes to a
The Karen Tribe
With a cute little kid from the Karen tribe! couple.
We decided to take a one day trek which included: a hike that stopped by two Thai tribes and a waterfall, a ride on an elephant, and a bamboo journey down a river. I have mixed feelings on visiting the tribes. On one side, there is no doubt that these tourist-visits affect the tribe as a whole. When we arrived, a sea of jewelry, fabrics, and bracelets awaited us. On the other side, many say that tourism is the only thing keeping these tribes as alive as they are. I did what I could, asked permission for everything, and attempted to be as respectful as possible. All in all, it was an amazing personal experience.
Next we visited a refreshing waterfall and Daniel and I were the ONLY ones who ventured into the chilly waters for a swim. No regrets there. Sure, it took a couple moments to get used to... I had the quivering 'Jack... Jack... Wake Up' voice (Titanic) but it wasn't anything worse than San Diego waters in winter.
Afterwards we made our way to the Elephant camp and I found myself uncomfortable once again. These were beautiful creatures forced to take little
The Sunday Night Market
The cheapest shopping in town... fat people like us around all day. Still, another perspective- many say that tourism is the only thing that ensures these elephants will stay both well-fed and healthy. So... I did all I could to ensure both myself and my elephant a peaceful and fun-filled ride. Basically, I gave him about 400 bananas... And in turn he didn't seem to mind my body on top of him. I must say, however, that you don't quite realize what it is to ride an elephant until you are on your way. Massive, massive creatures... One itchy back in need of tree-scratching and I'm minced meat.
We then had a decent lunch and after made our way to the river bamboo experience. This was, by far, my favorite part of the trek. You gotta do it! My dad and brother took a raft with a french couple and I found myself paired with a Korean family. The host then chose me as the navigator so I received a large bamboo pole and a place at the back of the raft. We flowed down the tranquil river and every few minutes faced tiny rapids... It's impossible to stay dry because the river water
Temple..
This temple was destroyed in an earthquake hundreds of years ago... But was partially restored in 1990. seeps through the bamboo and the rapids spray as you pass them. What's more, we also happened to trek on a national holiday- Children's Day. The local kids got out of school early and many made their way to the river to cool off. I got into about a million water fights as I tried to steer us out of harms way. It was amazing! Kids bombing us, squirting us, splashing us- all in the sake of fun.
It was fabulous- every part of the day.
The rest of our visit in Chang Mai included me spending lots of Baht on many cool knick-knacks for friends and family, Dad and Daniel going river rafting in tough waters, and I taking a one day cooking course on Thai cuisine... Friends, Family- get ready for some damn good food when you get back. Most of the dishes are simple enough with a great reward at dinner time- the soup I prepared (both sweet, spicy, and sour) was my favorite. I left the course stuffed and satisfied and enjoyed a long ride back into town with my newfound cooking-class friends. How much was this one day course, you might ask? 800b - or roughly $23... food and a cooking book included. AMAZING.
I visited some beautiful temples, lit a candle for a sick friend and placed it near a giant Buddha, and got into the culture as best I could. I met dozens of beautifully interesting people during my visit and plan on keeping in contact with most of them. I also heard stories from some of the locals that ached my heart and relit the passion I have for doing good in the world.
Like Hat Railey, I didn't want to leave. Really. I wish I was still there. I mean it. And I'll hopefully be able to go back in a year or so... Maybe sooner.
Dad and Daniel also loved their stay. There was so much to both see and do... And we could only take a bite out of all the city had to offer. I write from Singapore... This place is hot and new, and I won't write about it until I've given it a chance. Learned that lesson.
Mom tells me that people are actually reading this. They had better be. I could be drinking and cooling off next to a river right now... But no, I sit here writing on this darn machine. 😉 I miss and love you all. Leave me comments!
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Mom
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Cooking
I am ready and waiting for my next Thai meal! I am so glad you had a great time at CHang Mai.