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Published: June 14th 2016
Decorated Boats
Lovely flowers adore the hulls of all the boats floating in the riverOkay, so Bangkok...and not exactly “one night” either. More like a week, but I was left wishing for longer.
Bangkok was only meant to be a brief stopover because I thought it would be nothing more than a dirty, congested city with that nonstop honking traffic, questionable smells, and confusing infrastructure. I also believed it would be sleazy and annoying...and I swore if I saw one person shoot a ping pong ball out of her hoo-ha, I'd be out of there. But Bangkok wasn't like that at all.
Well, it was, but I freaking loved it. I randomly picked a budget hotel online and lucked out because it was perfectly situated close to the Chao Phraya River allowing me easy maneuverability.
My first day out, I made my way to the Sathorn wharf and jumped into a traditional looking boat adorned with flowy flowers on the bow. It seemed lucky. I hadn’t quite figured out that the public ferries were way cheaper, so for today it was an orange long tail. We didn't go right away and I quickly realized we are waiting for more customers to wander by.
No big deal, I sit back and
Yummy street food!
Wow. What a place to experience this culture watch all the action unfold on this busy waterfront. Vessels of all sizes and shapes jockey for position in the narrow muddy channel. I had to constantly wipe my brow with my sleeve. Did I mention today's humidex is predicted to be on the upwards of forty five degrees?
Then this blonde girl comes down the wharf in a huff, throws her day bag into the boat and tries to climb aboard, but with the turbulent waters it was like she was trying to mount Jell-O.
She finally plops down in front of me, exhausted. She makes a face and I immediately take a liking to her. We chat it up, and for the next day and a half, we are inseparable. German Anna is like me, has no idea where to go and what to see, but at least we can do that together. Of course the tuk tuk drivers can smell our naivety and divert us to every jewelry shop and clothes maker in Bangkok. Telling us if they do they get vouchers for free gas today, this, being the Thai New Year. We go along with it because each shop we go to offers free
Protective Warriors
Adorned on a Wat in the Grand Palace these warriors were so cool cold drinks and air con which becomes a huge reprieve between the temples.
Besides, I'm not intimated, I already know I can sit through a hard sell and smile and nod and not buy a thing. But I note German Anna getting a bit antsy at one high pressure store and she finally tags me in for assistance. We flee through the scrum of thirsty pearl sellers, and laugh and fall out of the stores like we just got off a carnival ride.
Back to touristing, the Grand Palace wasn't difficult to find (the big white wall kind of gives it away) but for some reason we are turned away twice by official looking officials. We are dressed appropriately so what gives? It turns out there are New Year holiday hours, and for other reasons no one really knows. Frustrated, we decide to try back in the afternoon, and our tuk tuk driver takes us in the other direction, on a quest for Wats.
Bangkok traffic is one word: mental, and our driver: erratic, but even so it all seems to ebb and flow naturally.
Thailand has a fantastic vibe and it is fast growing on
Bangkok Boxing
Watching the Muay Thai boxing matches on a Sunday night me. Tuk Tuk guy takes us to an obscure temple in the middle of Bangkok suburbia that has a rare blue alabaster Buddha on display inside. Don't ask me the name of this Wat but the decorations are shockingly pretty. Inside we run into a local man who taught math in Frankfurt and therefore speaks fluent German. The only word I know in German is waschlappen, so while German Anna and the man reminisce, I enjoy the peaceful solitude of the space. It was truly beautiful.
Our next stop is Wat Benjamabhopit, and I am super impressed by all the marble, apparently imported from Italy. It was built in by King Rama V in 1900 and this is also the temple embossed on the back of the five baht coin. Located near the many government offices and palaces, this Wat is highly revered and is often visited by high ranked officials. We find our English speaking guide inside having a siesta, so I snap a picture of him before startling him awake. He slowly strolls us through endless statues and beautiful artworks.
Back to the Grand Palace after some street snacks and we finally get in, with about
Last Wat prayer
So very impressive is the reclining Buddha. a million other tourists.
Anyone with Caucasian ancestry is wearing the mandatory uniform of elephant print pants, billowy cotton blouse, man bun, and an over sized hemp purse.
I must have not gotten the memo.
Walking around, trying not to get poked in the eye by a wayward umbrella, I am dazzled by this gigantic complex. Apparently built in 1782 and the home of the Thai King, the Royal court and the administrative seat of government, the Grand Palace architecture has such intricate detail, showing off the amazing craftsmanship of Thai people. Within its walls were also the Thai war ministry, state departments, and even the mint.
Today, the complex remains the spiritual heart of the Thai Kingdom. Some of the stupas seem to radiate heat off their golden exteriors making the temperatures and crowds unbearable. In my bleariness, I forget at one point I’m not wearing sandals...and walk out on the melting black tarmac.
Ow ow ow.
The rest is a blur. I don’t remember seeing the coveted Emerald Buddha, but apparently I did. Any shade spot has dozens of people fighting to stand under it. German Anna and I actually started to swoon from
Lotus land
Some lovely decorations on the grounds of the Grand Palace the heat but we rally, fill up our reusable bottles with some monks at the public water taps, and prepare for more umbrella warfare, before we finally pack it in for the day.
Back at my hotel, we have a dip in the refreshing pool before German Anna heads back to her hostel to meet up with some of her fellow countrymen.
Alone at night, I'd go find somewhere to eat near the hotel. It was definitely an adventure. I'd walk a couple of blocks, find a side street and go down, and if there were a whole bunch of scooters lined up outside, I'd go in. Most of the crowds would just stare at me as I found a free seat. Of course I couldn't read the menu, so I'd just point to the plates coming out and stuff would be put in front on me.
Some dishes were so spicy my eyes would bleed. There had to be something middle of the road, I reasoned, so I looked for an eatery that had a few loitering expats in them. One particular restaurant had a man bun count of four, so it seemed promising.
Bangkok
Blue Alabaster Buddha
So different yet interesting to see in some obscure Wat somewhere in Bangkok is a blistering oven even at eight o’clock at night but with a fan directly blowing on you, tolerable. The Thai family that ran the place spoke impeccable English and the menu was readable. A young girl comes to take my order. Her Dad, a dusty Australian expat, polishes glasses in the corner and yells into his cellphone. Their green curry was so amazing I had to go back a couple of times to exploit their delicious menu.
German Anna texts periodically in the week, and we meet up in mutual places of interest such as a bustling flower markets or at one of the hundreds of other Wats strewn around the city. She wants to go to a mall on the riverfront called Asiatique but it turns out to be nothing more than an overpriced, commercialized dud. The Ferris wheel at night was kind of cool though.
We stop only to snack on street food and baggies of fresh fruit, which are cheap and delicious. On our wanders we found one district that was nothing but shop after shop that sold gold Buddhas of every size imaginable. German Anna is told she’s not allowed to buy one,
Unfamiliar fare
Half the stuff on display I couldn't identify but was willing to try. Everything but a fermented duck egg. gah yuck! apparently tourists are not allowed to take the likeness of Buddha out of the country. What?
I’m pretty sure I’ve seen tourists walking around with their newly acquired Buddha statues. Was it because of the New Year? We will never know I guess. Anna flew back to Frankfurt that night with a bit of a pout.
On my own again, I had plenty of time to sit and reflect about Bangkok. Being my first time in Southern Asia, I think it feels very
Ying and Yang here, like for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Could Bangkok be
THE great law of Karma? Intriguing. Maybe.
There is a real chain reaction of endless actions and reactions in Bangkok that makes it the bustling hodgepodge of chaos that it is. But. There is also this tangible evil that lurks in every corner.
And I know evil. Simply wandering around...the presence of evil was overwhelming for me. I tried to shake the feeling, but it was like
The Devil Was Walking Next to Me.
How could these Thai people and their Thai culture be so gentle and kind....yet coincide calmly with these blinking neon
In Training
Saffron wearing boys walk towards the Grand Palace in the crowds of people, stopping to provide prayers to those asking. signs, gaudy cabarets, blatant prostitution, and dodgy gangsters? It’s all so evil.
Maybe the Devil cannot truly get a foothold here because it's a nation full of peaceful loving Buddhists. I’m going to hope that’s why.
By day 3, I was Wat’d out.
But everyone I talk to tells me I need to go see Wat Pho. So out I go back into the blistering heat...and thank god I did. What a Wat!
This is one of the oldest and largest Buddhist temples in Bangkok with a gigantic reclining Buddha. He is about fifteen meters high and forty three meters long, covered with gold leaf and his four meter long feet are encrusted with exquisite mother-of-pearl decorations. I spent most of my time staring up in amazement at this beautiful statue. It is really something else.
I didn’t go to any of the floating markets, nor did I go to the red light district. Contrived touristy things feel dirtier than I already am.
Overall, Bangkok was a weird treasure. Sure, the heat was oppressive, but the Thai people were a fantastic delight.
My last night in Bangkok, I go with a couple Aussie
Floaty Boats
All sorts of vessels ply the waters of the river in Bangkok guys from German Anna’s hostel to a Muay Thai boxing match at the Ratchadamnoen Stadium. It is Sunday and I am leaving for Siem Reap in the morning. We are a group of twelve, and me being the only girl, they politely buy me watery beers, I don’t drink beer.
I’m not sure what’s going on as the different matches unfold before me, but it is highly entertaining. We were put into a VIP section near the ring. The blaring horns and shouting from the stands give it a carnival atmosphere. The local fighters all look so young and innocent, and I found myself wincing as each wet smack of a foot or fist makes contact.
We regain focus as the headliners take the ring. Most of the challengers were expat men from Australia and Europe. Wearing tiny shorts. And suddenly I had a whole new appreciation for this form of martial arts.
Is it hot in here? Wowsa. In the morning, I watch as the Bangkok skyline disappears slowly in my rear view mirror.
I was a little sad to be honest.
Cambodia's Angkor Wat was the reason I came all this way
Khaosan Road
Backpackers street in Bangkok across this world, but I know now, I need to come back to Thailand.
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taracloud
Tara Cloud
Something for everyone!
Glad to see you were able to experience the beauty in that many-sided city. Love the golden Buddhas and flower-decked boats. And clearly one of those times when it's best not to follow the locals regarding food; great there are eateries catering to our delicate palates. Contrary to what Anna said, I find it hard to believe a Westerner couldn't take a tourist tat Buddha out of the country! Now, one of the golden Buddhas.....