Bangkok, Round 1

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Going from gas-powered tractors to the skyline of Bangkok would be like taking a bus from Amish country in Lancaster, PA to Grand Central Station. I fell asleep with my head on the window, and when I awoke what was in front of me was a definetly not the Kansas I'd been used to.

First of all, the city's growth is uninhibited by surrounding water, so the area is absolutely massive. Some stunning modern glass towers in the city center, especially at the financial center. There are also some low, very average homes and apartments farther out. As in any big city, there exists a huge disparity between the rich and poor. I stayed in a guesthouse in the backpacker district for the time I was there, but after a few nights out locally I wanted to check out more of the city center. Traveler nightlife is solid in the backpacker quarter - something for everyone. In more liberal spots, booze, drugs, girls everywhere, it's just a way of life here.

First off, from my visit, I could see no visible sign of struggle/political upheaval. Not sure where the smoke and destruction footage on western TV was, but it wan't apparent from the city center. There was a fair bit of security (metal detectors and bag sweeps) at the subway entrances, but nothing much.

Secondly, public transit in BKK is great . There is a subway, and overlaying the underground there is a skytrain that links to a number of larger public centers in the retail district. It appears to be a very efficient system and put's NY's subway and Seattle's monorail to shame. That said, construction finished within the last few years, so the tech available was leaps and bounds better that the older systems that exist in NY or Philly, the only 2 US subways I've been on, besides, the good-ol "main line" in Buffalo.

The cars mimic automated trains like the Airtrain to JFK or the terminal trams at the Denver airport. The cars' exteriors aren't visible - tracks are also sealed, helping make the stations spotlessly clean. The station and the car door open in sequence in each station. And the ride? If I could fall asleep and wake up in Brooklyn on MTA, I could fall asleep and wake up in another country here. Sooo smooth. No noise, immaculate, great aircon. In short way nicer than 90% of the places I've slept in the past 2 months.

Payment method is also quite innovative. You pay per zone based on destination, assuming you don't use their version of a Smart Card, and are issued a black plactic token the size of a triple-thick quarter. You touch it to the entry turnstile, pocket it, and surrender it in a slot at your destination point. No waste, very easy.

The same system works for the Skytrain, which is really slick too. Also a great way to see a lot of skyline change. The demographic of riders is definitely middle->upper class. Lots of professional clothes and many western-types, though they have the settled ex-pat "I live here now" look.

The central store market building, (think Macy's on steroids) was accessible by the Skytrain and as western as you could imagine. Except there was way too much space to walk around in. Don't get me wrong, it was packed with merchandise and a sea of floor staff, but even in the city center, where space was obviously at a premium, there was ample room between isles, departments, and generally to walk around. Very different. Prices were lousy though. Levis are really big in SEA, not so much all other jean styles, and were $50. But shirts, pants, housewares were steep. I guess because it's all imported, but even kitchen gadgets that should cost $5-8 back home were a lot more. Like 700 baht for a hand apple corer/slicer press - more than 20 bucks!

It was really easy to get turned around with so many floors and exits w/o clear views of the skyline. But I just stumbled on one cool new shop after another. Found the BKK version of Whole Foods trying to get out of the store and found selection and quality to be first-rate.

Let's see what am I missing. Ah the hospital. I had some questionable ear issues doing my test dives this spring, so I decided to check out the suposedly great medical centers of Thailand and get some proper exams done. I was bargaining a taxi ride to the hospital when a nice 15 passenger van marked with my destination pulled up. Apparently there was a med clinic hidden just around the corner and I got a free ride to the med center. Checked in, got an id card with a barcode, and waited for the ENT nurse to come grab me. Service was prompt and efficient. I saw an audiologist for hearing check, and more importantly had a tympanogram done on both sides. Full cost for 2 hour visit inlcluding 20 minutes with a western-trained English speaking doc and anti-congestion meds for diving cost $66. I heard that birthing suite w/ C-section delivery costs just $1,000 here. No surprise medical tourism is so popular - you can have a vacation and the procedure for less than just the hospital back home.

In general the hospital, esp the wing dedicated to international visitors, felt more like a hotel lobby than a hospital. Fountain out front with free valet parking, nice sitting areas throughout, internet, wall art and sculpture, even an art exhibit on the main floor. Very, very different than my recent visits to Buff Gen.

And finally clothes. I did a ton of research about getting clothes made over here prior to my trip. Many I met in Vietnem viewed Hoi An as mecca for custom tailoring (2 suits including 2 extra trousers and shirts for $149!!). That whole line about "If it seems to good to be true..." well I skipped Hoi An, but I did see some suits others had picked up. A Canadian guy showed my a Croft & Barrow suit he got for btw $100 and $200. Unlined trousers, questionable hemming, so-so fabric - definitely a blend. I guess Kohl's hasn't made its way across the border yet, but that price is hardly a bargain compared to what's available locally back home. Of course he was so thrilled with his purchase I just kept my mouth shut. His gf had some skirts and dresses made but I'm not at all qualified to comment on construction. Colors and patterns were dec though.

The reason I brought that up is that the same traps await you here in Bangkok. "Custom suits" made within 24 hours for $99. Yeah, right. The fact is you can't make a suit from scratch that fast, so you're most likely getting an altered rack suit like my Canadian friend. Might be fine, might not. Depends on use. If you want a "going-out" suit you aren't emotionally (or financially) attached to, go for it. But don't expect to use it as your regular interview suit and have it hold up. I read on one blog that you should look at these places for really loud suits like for Halloween, St. Patty's Day, or your favorite sports team. I'd shy away from anybody who has prices outside on a sign. Or that's on the sidewalk hawking his wares. I'm sure there's decent shops mixed in between the cheap places throughout SEA, just take some time to look. The shop I chose had no such signage, and the tailor was inside working. I haven't seen my stuff yet, so I'll let you know if you I chose wisely. But I suspect I'll be very happy. I go back in a few days for a second fitting and am pretty psyched.

I had a few hours to kill waiting for my bus out of BKK and was tired of shopping and walking to I sought refuge in a movie theater near the central shopping district. There was so much going on in the theater lobby it was a little intimidating. It took a few mintues to get my bearings - it was like how I imagine a future spaceport will look like. The mall that encompassed the theater (which had an IMAX, 14 standard screens, and 3 Nokia VIP suites) was intense. I snapped a few quick pics but man, it was huge. And the stores made that nice South Park mall in Charlotte and some 5th ave stores look cheap. A lot of European brands I was unfamiliar with and in one section, enormous empty hallways bounded by some of the most ritzy jewelry stores imaginable. 7 or 8 big floors in all. The only US comparison I can draw is Carousel in Syracuse. Not sure if as expansive per floor, but much taller. I only scratched the surface, but I'll definitely hit it up once more on my way back.

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