Buzy in Bangkok

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Having run out of time in Koh Tao I hightailed it to Bangkok for a few days to organise things for Myanmar. Leaving everything to the last minute meant there were only 1st class berths on the train and, not keen on freezing to death on the journey, I opted instead to take the 2nd class seated option. With hindsight perhaps not the best move. My seat was only just attached to the floor and the cushion part (can I call a lump of wood covered in thin leather a cushion?) for my behookie to rest upon was not attached to the seat. Cockroaches galore ran around all night so I was very glad I had not a companion and could put my feet up on the other chair.

Arrived in Bangkok 5:30am without a wink of sleep and unable to check in to the hotel until 2pm. For want of anything better to do I put my bag in left luggage and made a foray into the streets of Bangkok. First person to greet me was (quell surprise) a tuk tuk driver who, upon hearing of my intended destination (Lumphini Park), announced he would do me the great honour of driving me there for a mere 1000 Baht. I near fainted at the price and opted instead to take the subway for a much more reasonable 20 Baht. Feel very proud of myself, had I encountered said gentleman at the start of my trip I would have taken his tuk tuk at the extortionate price for want of not offending the poor chap. Turns out a smile and a no thank you (repeated several times) results in a smile and an "OK, subway that way" and no offense taken. A lesson I would put to good use when ambling towards the Grand Palace, signs there warn you to beware of wily strangers, and boy are those strangers wily!

Ah, but I digress. Lumphini Park. I found it eventually, it is a large mass of greenery in big built up city (not sure how I missed it initially), and spent a very pleasant few hours there. Sounds of chanting, groups of elderly Tai Chai practitioners, aerobics, open air gyms, even just people running/walking round the grounds, it was a hive of activity and I plonked my fat behind upon yet another park bench and enjoyed! Most of the people there were elderly, many of them could barely move but they were still giving it their all. Once chap took 10 minutes to walk about 10m, he had his shorts on, towel round his neck and was surely giving it his all. Really wanted to cheer when he made it to a table and sat down for a well earned drink - but didn't obviously. He then proceeded to read his newspaper with it held but an inch from his nose (remind you of anyone Dad???), hilarious to watch.

Come around 8:30 I'd run out of shade and went in search of a bank from which to withdraw the requisite US dollars for Myanmar. Took a bit of too-ing and fro-ing to obtain suitable notes but got there eventually and, jolly pleased with myself indeed, I set off for Jim Thomson's house. This chap all but put Thai silk on the map, then disappeared age 61 in the Cameron Highlands (predicted by his horoscope many years before, the prediction hangs on a wall in his house. Spooky or what!). Well worth the visit, nothing opulent but a small and beautiful house filled with beautiful treasures, I especially liked the NAT's which has me looking forward even more (if that's possible) to Myanmar.

Next day I explored the Royal Palace (after evading many a 'wily stranger' who assured me it was closed) which was incredible. The detail on everything so minute. It was pouring down so alas, the photo's don't pick up the colours well, much more impressive in the flesh honestly. Then on to Wat Pho which houses the reclining Buddha, a gold plated statue 46m long and 15m high. Very impressive but, once again, the experience was marred by the number of curious people also there to view it. T'was here I met a very strange lady, no word of English to be had, who sat beside me outside and (after a few encouraging nods from here) picked up one of my legs and started prodding. Had no idea what she was up to but felt very much as if I was being sized up for the pot! Now I know how poor Hansel and Gretel felt. Uncomfortable (but not wishing to offend) I extricated my leg from her grip and edged away (I wanted to run, but that would have been rude!). Nothing daunted she merely grabbed my arm and proceeded to dig her fingernails in, applying great pressure and them just as she must surely have broken skin, she moved half an inch up the arm and began again. It dawned on me then (always was quick on the uptake me) that she was attempting a massage and would expect payment. She looked like she lived on the streets and needed the cash so I endured. As she nodded happily at me I interjected the odd statement such as "Hmmm, yes, that really hurts thanks" or "Incredibly painful as it happens, are you trying to draw blood' etc. When I could bear it no longer (about two minutes) I waited I flashed a 20B note at her and fled (am spending a lot of time fleeing out here, not very intrepid at all!).

Not sure I'm enjoying Bangkok, but certainly not hating it as I thought I might. Thank heavens for the sky train and metro! Has been a bit of a culinary adventure for me here. One place had no english on the menu so I pointed and hoped.... and received a dish of rice, very (very, very) salty fish, entire cloves of garlic and, what can only be described as large bits of twig. Euurgh! The mushrooms were good though, and so was the band that were playing, so all was not lost. Have also indulged in some pickled sausage (at least that's what it tasted like) which was very odd and a skewer or two of something (I think Fish) which very nearly blew my head off (I did taste the sauce before she added, but it seems a finger tip tasting does not equate to a vat of the stuff). However, the bad was certainly outweighed by the good. Had an indescribably delicious calamari and spicy salsa dish. OK, so maybe not very Thai but it was fab, I recommend the Bug and Bee to anyone with a little cash to splash (two courses and a drink came to about 5 pounds).

Am off the catch my flight to Myanmar in an hour, not sure what the net access will be like there as have heard mixed reports. If I can blog I will, if not I'll be back in Thailand in a month and will update then. So please don't worry if I'm not around, I'll be out there somewhere having a ball!

PS, unable to load photo's here, will put them up as and when I can.

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Comments

[suzie]

go girl !!
hey jen, you've been wasting your talents babe, your a born writer, loving your instalments, you bring it all to life so vividly. sounds like its all you were hoping for, and then some. glad your also meeting up with people, even if their strange and try to manhandle you lol. stay safe love suz xx

[fiona swan]

hiya babe,have been waiting for the low-down on thailand, especially bangkok. its a place i fancy myself. shame you wisnae over joyed aboot it. will look forward to foties when u can post them. onwards and upwards girl. fee xxx

[Linda]

Having a ball
Hurry back, have thoroughly enjoyed reading about your exploits, cant wait for the next instalment, and wherever you are, I really hope your having a ball x