Bangkok

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Bangkok's official name is "Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit", though most thais are happy to stop at Krung Thep ie "City of Angels". The name Bangkok was the name of a pre-existing village. Meaning "Village of Wild Plums" it was not considered a suitable name for a new capital city.
If you only visit one wat in Bangkok, it should be Wat Phra Kaew in the grounds of the Royal Palace. Home of the Emerald Budda, the most venerated image in Thailand, it is the most gorgeously decorated wat in Bangkok. The Emerald Budda, actually carved from a single piece of jasper, first appeared in Chang Rai in 1464, and has been housed in Wat Phra Kaew since 1782. Because Wat Phra Kaew is the most sacred wat in all of thailand, proper dress is required. Sarong and long pants can be obtained inside the ground for a returnable deposit.

Arrive at Khaosan Road at 4:15am. Not really the best time to arrive anywhere, however there were plenty of tuk-tuk drivers offering to take me to hotels. I am a little suspicious of these characters who for a fee could take me for a little tour before delivering me to a hotel just around the corner. Finding a hotel on foot, I crashed, and woke about 11am.

Time to see the sites, and perhaps and opportunity to be scammed. The "Lucky Budda" attempted scam. Some one approaches in the street, gives the usual introduction and then says somelike "its the King's 60th Year on the Throne and therefore Export Thailand is running a series of exhibitions. For only 5 baht you can see these exhibitions and the "Lucky Budda" and some wats. And all the driver requires is a petrol voucher, for the fuel he has used." Or something to that effect. The so-call "Export Thailand Exibition" is the usual run of jewerelly and taylor shops. And of course if you dont buy something the tuk-tuk driver doesn't get his petrol voucher, poor chap. Literally jumping off the scam I made my way towards towards the Grand Palace. In the vicinity of the Sanum Luang I was attacked by the seed sellers. These people approach and literally pour pigeon feed into you hand which of course all spills on the ground attracting dozens of pigeons, they then surround you and scream at you to pay for the feed. Paying the escape fee, yeah I know I shouldn't have, I arrive at Wat Phra Kaew, home of the Emerald Budda.

Next day, being an experienced tourist, I avoid all the scam artist and feed sellers and make my way straight to the oldest and largest Wat in Bangkok, Wat Pho. Surronded by white washed walls, entrance is gained by paying a fee of 20baht after making your way past strategically placed drink and food stalls. Wat Pho houses a 46m long by 15m high reclining Budda represented the passing of Budda into Nirvana. Contructed out of brick, it is covered in plaster which is overlaid with gold leaf. Bottom of the feet feature mother of pearl inlay. Behind the reclining budda are a series of pots. People would put tokens into each perhaps to gain merit in the next existence. Later that afternooni, I observed exactly the same phenomen, a queue of monks, actually kids of primary school age, each had a bag and people were putting notes, at least 20baht, into each monks bag. To gain merit, if so, it seems a bastardization of the idea. I thought merit was gained by 'good acts' and following the 'right path' not just giving money, otherwise what is stopping the rich from buying their way to Nirvana.

Leaving Wat Pho I move towards the Chao Phraya River, destination Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn. Through a series of ramshackled stalls. selling all manner of foods, the real asia, onwards along a wooden gangplank, where a fee of 3 baht is paid for the across the river fare. From the opposite bank and approaching it looks very impressive. Close, the main chedi gives the impression of being a mountain which will require a certain expenditure of energy to reach the summit. Reaching the summit or even the highest platform is not possible becasue the stairs have been gated. Some of the decorative art work is dilapitated and in need of restoration.

Drinking water, pouring it through me like it is going out of fashion. Sometimes I put my thumbs in my belt, causing my arms to be bent in a V-fashion. For some reason young thai females find the effect hilarious. As I walk around I see many Bangkokians just lying around, on the ground, on park benches or on the mats they bring. Are they homeless or are they just too buggered to do anything except sleep.

The following day I went to the National Museum. Crossing the road in Bangkok requires planning and precision execution ie wait for a gap, run and hope for the best.

The Museum featured artifacts for various periods in the area history. Some of it pre-Thai. There was the Dravati period, the period of Khmer rule, the Sukothai period, the Aythuya period and finally the Bangkok period. Like most museums, most of it placed on stands and behind glass walls is out of context. But what is the proper context, cities which have long since crumbled serving empires which no longer exist. I wonder if the artisians ever envised that 1000 years later their creations would be in a glass case located in a place called Bangkok being observed by people from Australia, Europe the USA etc.

Also of intereset where the royal chariots, used in the funeral services when the King, Queen or some other high ranking royal dies. Elaborately decorated and very large demostated that royality knows how to go out in style. There is a rigid ceremony, the body is placed in an urn for a certain period, then cremented on a royal funeral pyre.

Wow, Saturaday already!! Today's destination is Wat Saket, the Temple of the Golden Mount. By foot of by tuk-tuk. Admittely going by tuk-tuk is faster and less tiring but I see very little or normal life. So I walked slowly towards my destination. On the way I intersected many teenagers in school uniforms which prompted me to ask one of them if Saturday was a school day. She informed me in somewhat broken english that she had to do a test. Climbing up the stairs to the top of the mount was pleasant enough. The gradient is not too steep and there is much vegetation which provide shade and good view from the path. Several monks some whom were carrying fruit to the top. Cant imagine how long it would last sitting out there in the sun. Along the path thereare several bells for the passerby to ring. Maybe one gets merit. Near the top, just before you climb right to the top are several buddas. One was golden and seemed to be embedded with diamonds and gems stones. Right in the center under the stupa was another Budda statue, this one is used for adding gold leaf to gain merit.

Many small carpentary shops, making elaborately decorated doors, where located on the street opposite to the Golden Mount. On the way back to Khaosan ROad I took a few photographs of a street sweeper who thought it highly amusing when I lifted my legs to allow her to sweep under the bench.

Some days, one doesnt feel like doing anything. Today, Sunday, was one of those days, so I did nothing. Well I did move out of my hotel into one that has an airconditioner that actually works. Though a little oddity is the shower and toilet are together in the same cubical. Something I have never seen before, but, no doubt will see again.
A guy on Khaoson Road was selling insects. You could buy a grass hopper for 10 baht, cockroaches and scorpions for 20 baht and live scorpians for 100 baht. Suppose you cook them yourself. Plan to eat some bugs when I go to the Isaan. Suspect they are an overpriced novelty here. At least that was my excuse for not partaking in the cuisine.

Today Monday is my last day in Bangkok for the time being. Have made the decision to ship out to Ayuthaya tomorrow. I know it is only 80kms away and could be done on a day trip, but it will mean that I am travelling again.

Most the day day was spent visiting a few wats, most of which were located on the other side of Klong Banglamphu. Preferring to approch them by minor soi rather than the main roads gave a chance to view normal life. In fact it would have been too easy to stray into someones living room. Wat Tri which was being built either new or with a new wing complete with new art work. Artisians were working on it when I was there. Also the chedi was covered with scaffolding. Actually, I dont think of Wats being built. I think of them being 100's years old. Next was Wat Intarawihan, with the large standing budda of tuk-tuk scam fame. Made my way back to Wat Mai Amoarabarot approaching from soi5, very narrow, literally peering into peoples homes. Today the weather is favourable, not too hot or humid, with a cloud cover screenning out the suns ferocity. Normally by now my clothes would be dripping in sweat.

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Photos

Yaska
Giant demon guardian.

Big Standing Budda
Located at Wat Intharawihan this Budda is 32m tall. If your 5baht/day tuk-tuk driver brings you here, you are being taken for a ride.

Wat Phra Kaew
Outside Wat Phra Kaew. Inside is housed to Emerald Budda. Note the gilded garuda's and mosaics.

School Girls at Royal Palace
Schools girls photographed taking photographs at the Royal Palace Grounds. Note the well manicured trees. This was a feature in the grounds of many wats.

Mother of Pearl
An example of mother of pearl inlay at Wat Phra Kaew.

Alms
Behind the reclining Budda at Wat Pho people making donations to gain merit. Tokens would be placed into every pot.

Massuers
Massuers at Wat Pho. Traditional Thai medicine and massage are taught here. Foreigners can also study massage, for a fee, of course:)

Wat Arun
Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, from the Chao Phraya River. Impressive from a distance, close up it looks a little dilapated, in need of restoration work.

Bell
Many bells and images of budda are located close to the stair way leading to the top of Wat Saket.

Monks
Monks checking wood cravings near Temple of the Golden Mount. There are many small carpentary factories in the area.

Street Sweeper
She is doing a good job of sweeping the streets clear of rubbish.