Ayutthaya - history, moats and birthdays

---

My time in Kanchanaburi ended with a breakfast sit in at After Dawn cafe, which has a gallery of Kwai bridge art work, chilling before it was time to go to get the bus. I'd actually missed the last seat of the day's only minibus to Ayutthaya and had thought ah bugger that's usual me. But I asked around and found another way to Ayutthaya on two local buses - having known, I'd have chosen this way, it was cheap and comfortable and easy.



On walking down to the bus station, a motorbike taxi pulled up and offered to take me and big bag down, it was a half hour walk but I said, certainly I thought, that my bag was too heavy for the bike!.. But a blink forward and big bag, average height me, and medium sized driver were winding through the streets, pulling ahead of other traffic and getting to the station rapidly.



Here the big, colourful buses lined up, fans overhead, slowly filling with big striped bags and passengers. Off I went to mine. People at the stations (this one and others i'd use) were really helpful; confirming what bus over in the line it was, or helping me to lift my bag ontop of the bus, or translating to me on board if say the driver indicated a twenty minute stop - offering help or checking that I'm okay without me needing to seek it.



I felt good about getting into Ayutthaya, already getting versed in the enjoyment of having new places, new wandering and new bearings to set. Then I realised, shit I may never see Kanchanaburi again. The river, the streets, the hills.. the athletic island!, the familiar faces of the street spots, my own sweet spots here (the road bridge pull in overlooking the river, the bike track, the wooden swing bench at the guesthouse, the wide banks along the riverside). I felt reflective, grateful it had been what it was. Whilst on the second bus over I heard a thai rock song that i'd listened to and loved in Sangkhlaburi, played by the band in the market. The song was getting into my head, I would wake up the next day playing it out in my mind, it made me feel familiar and settled in.



My next stop was home of the ancient capital of the mighty Ayutthaya Kingdom, which was built from 1350 as a better position than the ill Lopburi centre, for power and of subjects in the more Southern land area. The kingdom would overtake the Sukhothai kingdom to be the dominant Tai centre and would push down into modern day Cambodia and east into modern day Laos. The kingdom also had crucial links with Indian, Chinese and Persian trading networks.







So, new city. And one of my first judgements was that Ayutthaya is not a walking city! I learnt this quick on my first night, off to find food, I found myself wearily treading the road edges. That's fine, i'll hop on a bicycle the rest of my time I thought. Then turning the corners and finding a lot of dogs hanging out, honestly, I was a little on edge. But, I learnt. Firstly, the dogs are just chilling and in their own little world.. in walking past calmly and surely, most just look up and back down to their paws, or out to more interesting things (and there's much here to look around at). Whilst a new friend from my guesthouse gave me a crash course in walking the roads here, having grown up on an island with a similar street vibe. At first, his casual walkings across junctions or over islands left me on the verge of calling out and sketchily keeping up, but I got there.. walk with laid back purpose, the mopeds and cars of the wide roads slow if need be, in good time!



My first dinner here was at a small restaurant where the owner, two school teachers and I chatted for ages about our home cities, the best djs and EDM, mourinho's chances at Chelsea.. all sorts, whilst we got to meet his family. His ten year old son was excellent at English and helped translate a few things for us all. Back home and my hostel 1301 was so nice, a small wooden two story by the river with a garden and just such a lovely vibe.



I remember my first shower here, waiting for the fuzzy caterpillar and millipede traffic to cross over the rocky floor. A little outside garden esque shower, perfect. Being in nature, there had also been a scattering of spiders about the wooden ceilings, I'd been indfifferent. And I thought then that maybe I was simply getting better at creepy crawlies since travelling. Feeling a little proud and at peace with the simplicity of it.. All i needed was some sure exposure i thought (as i washed my ever-growing hair). However, I was later humbled! - a total tensing at the sight of a spider outside the dorm window, he was pretty darn big and I was pretty sure my creepy fears were still a work in progress!







The next day was such a good one. I rented a bike and on coming out of 1301 I was straight onto the big loop around the main island, shadowing the city's natural moat of the Pasak and Chao Phraya rivers. I had a rough idea in mind of where I'd like to go, with the city freckled with temples and Buddha monuments from it's historical, dynamic past. But this first ride was just a chance to see the streets, to ride without direction knowing if I got back on the 13km loop I'd finally get back round home (whether I'd take the longer or shorter clockwise/anticlockwise way!)



The temples and their architecture here are multiply influenced, often fusing different elements. There's the Khmer architectural influence (perfected of course at Angkor Wat) and the associated Hindu style and references like the obelisk prangs.; the continuation of the Sukhothai style and the emerging Ayutthaya style of building and of Buddha images. A complex could have Shiva and Rama arts, Garuda's prodding out up high; long rows of seated buddhas with the Ayutthayan faint smile and strong posture; within sharp pagodas and the more Khmer styled layered brick and weaved stucco intricacy.



One of the day's highlights was meeting a fellow rider, Vishnu, on the way to Wat Chai Wattharam, here we chatted and got a photo. We both loved cycling and he gave me some tips for good Thai rides, though today he'd cycled all the way from Bangkok!



And Chai Wattharam was a beauty. Being the first big ancient temple I'd gone within here, I'll long remember it fondly. I can picture how I walked about the site, along seated Buddha framed paths, staring up the prangs from outside, up steps, through and along every path of the large rectangle, then out to a green bank overlooking the river; large stone buddhas and stone blocks set out into a grand walkway. It is one of the more famous ones, and its easy to see why. Maybe only those in Cambodia would top this similar aged and style of temple.



I also saw the mighty black-white contrast of Wat Phutthai Sawan, where it was quite eery walking up into the prangs, with old smells, cold shade, and occasional incense. Twisting wall murials and crumbling buddhas and motifs. It was so quiet here. Further into the grounds where Chedis (bell shaped) in various forms of crumble, making a Russian doll set, and markings of more everyday buildings.



Over by Wat Phanan Cheong was a more modest and modern temple complex, down a lane by the river. I'd notice the quiet, beyond the dusty entrance, was I allowed in? A old man hushed me in.. bike left, I ventured within. The quiet was soon broke, monks in chant and then a sound which I could only describe as a gun shot. My organs jumped onto their toes! I still don't know what it was. But standing back with the husherer in, we watched a funeral procession past through the temple, the family walking together positively and monks carrying everything forward with calm and knowing. Engaged with their present, I don't think they would have noticed us.







Ayutthaya had long been a cosmopolitan kingdom with influence from all over Asia and Europe, being one of Asia's major trading cities and hubs of progress. Within the city there was dutch, Japanese and Portuguese villages. Indeed I would cycle out to the far ends of the scrumpled tourist map in my pocket to the remains of a Portuguese settlement - missionaries, merchants, a church, food, soldiers, weaponry - where the siege of the city in 1767 by the Burmese army would leave the Portuguese also fleeing to Bangkok and then supporting the new leader and his army.



Another edge point of the map was the Elephants Kraal, and I had really just expected a statue piece of elephants. And this I indeed saw, warriors riding the elephants into a battle, the details of the creatures created into the stone. Then as I turned the corner a real! striking elephant was there, just out there by the bushes 30m or so away. Alone, its bold white tusks rearing forward as it wandered, seemingly free to roam. I watched him a while. This wildlife spot was actually by an elephant camp and from the view point further up I could see the washing and feeding line ups of these magnificent animals, companions of the free male elephant I'd just seen; hoping they were well looked after. Later though I would see elephant riding along one of the main streets back in the city. I saw sad eyes and rocking heads, signalling the elephants were not healthy or contented. I wasn't sure why the line of tourists were awaiting a go themselves, or merely snapping the elephants up close, trying to get themselves and a swaying trunk in view. It seemed strange, to not notice how the elephants seemed.





That night I'd go to a wonderful restaurant on the river front, famed for it's seafood menu, with Sunder from my guesthouse (the street walking expert). It was a great spot, we ordered whole grilled fish with spiciness and beers. And planned a trip to Lopburi for the next day (see next blog entry!).





....



Back in Ayutthaya after and a new day begun with a new bike adventure around the city. By now I was getting used to the areas and I really loved it here. The huge blocks of green parkland, as dominating neighbourhoods; a turn of the head and a new crumbling pagoda or stone tower to notice. I often wondered about the thousands of past worshippers, monks and rulers who had used and built and enjoyed and passed by these in their daily lives. You can't help but imagine past scenes as you walk or look or cycle about.



There, busy road sides of stalls and shops, lives and work and leisure time; yet behind, the calming pieces of history, knowing their place despite the more modern pop-ups. The roads were great to cycle fast around on, and yet you'd remain keen to stop at any time and take in the scenes. One of my favourite times of day here was actually when the rush hour begun about 4.30. Here the challenge would be to weave inside the traffic to get around the blocks and loops quicker than the rolling lanes of cars and tuk tuks. Some songthaews carried piled in and laughing, joshing school children, who would often say hello back out to me behind; and I often followed the paths of keen scooter riders ahead (tagging myself to them) for successful ways through. Whilst the large junctions, including a crazy 4 way junction by the bridge over to.., meant the shadowing of large vehicles so I couldn't be turned into.





Today I went about the inner squares of the historical parks, seeing - Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit, an impressive white linear temple with gold and coloured lining, inside is a large golden Buddha which draws many crowds; and Wat Phra Si Samphet, which is such a contrast, with the marbled effect stone (from varying composition decay) that now seems to drip down the pagodas, but closer you see the definite lines and intersections of the constructed layers. It also within this complex where the UNSECO Heritage site marking stands.

Into other green blocks where I'd see the majestic Wat Mahathat, complete with an incredible Buddha face immersed into a banyan tree.



I was really enjoying the city, the aged beauty, and the bustle of the thousands of overlapping and mingling modern days set about the remains. My initial weariness of getting about was now brushed aside, picked out easily by mental chop sticks and left on the side. There was such different architecture and majesty, imposing building and embracing greenery to enjoy; different degrees of preservation and crumble, steps to climb, dedications to spot, beautiful vast trees to go about and under. The huge green parks were gorgeous, little wooden arch bridges over the waterways to get to a new island spot, new city remains. The size of it meant you could spot smaller temples, or chill in the greens and not see many others.





One night after a trip through the night markets, picking up crickets and sweet dough balls and spicy meat sticks, I had the most brilliant Thai massage. Here you would change into more traditional clothes and the massage was so absorbing and helpful.. the masseuse walking on my back even and with gorgeous music playing softly, letting me deeply drift away. At least until it was time for my arms to be pulled and twisted! I actually went back the next day and had another masseuse, and she very cheekily asked at the end who was better her or her friend from yesterday, and though her friend was out of earshot, I genuinely couldn't answer! She was really kind and took time to show me exercises and techniques that I could use on my sore knee (where I couldn't at first handle her walking on the back of this leg, but after 2 minutes on my knee with her thumbs it was enjoyable to have it walked over again) and stretches I can do to the start the day. It's been such a treat to have thai massages.





I decided to stay around another day (I was here 5 days in all), and was so glad I did. I moved over to room31 hostel who were friends of the 1301 husband and wife team. It was the day of the King's birthday celebrations and after turning up at the hostel the owner Quong (I think that's right) asked if I wanted to join her and others to go see the fireworks and celebrations. Definitely. So we headed out together that evening, Quong, a couple of the hostel workers, some neighbours, the two in house tattoo artists and a few other travellers. We had a great time. In the busy streets filled with yellow-topped (bike for Dad tees) families and young groups, we lit candles and held them aloft with the crowds after a countdown, after the King's song. It was all a lovely atmosphere, car-less streets were sat within amongst the chatter and buzz and everyone stood up to catch the fireworks display that went off all around the city about us.



We talked about what the King means to the thai people, and they said it is similar in ways to the British Queen. I had wanted to understand more - how much of the showing of love and respect and the decorating of all towns with his picture and flags was from a simply genuine place, and how much it was rather more constructed. It seemed that the King's longevity and quiet, pleasant interests genuinely earned respect, he was seen like a distant but loved father figure in some ways; though the future of the monarchy was a bit more of a prickly subject.



So, really, you shouldn't drink on the birthday day out of respect, but the group said that if we kept it a bit quiet it was fine to go buy beers and bring them back to sit out the front together. Great! With this in the back of my mind, I closed the shop fridge with a few bottles in my hand and slip-clatter-smash-shit! One of the bottles fell from my loose hold of the loose cardboard carrier and was now a spiky floor splatter. Oh dear. Myself and one of the shop team cleared up, I felt my cheeks burning as others walked around, smelled the beer, saw the scene and quickly skipped into other aisles. Clumsy Lee. But we got back and the night begun.





I really can't overstate how friendly and welcoming everyone was and we had such a good giggle and great conversations. We'd take it in turns to take a bicycle for a beer or snack or whiskey run, which would sit in the front basket on the way back. A guy from the bike rental shop next door whipped up a delicious spicy soup for us all to share, after the other travellers went off to dinner. There was a fun drinking game (including a glass, a napkin, a matchstick and some daring jenga like moves) when we were all back and honest chat on our stories and hopes. Quong for example talked to me about running the guesthouse and how it can be tough and not always rewarding, how some times it's hard having to go welcome and help the arriving tourists, with their often standard questions, needs and concerns - 'sometimes I just need to be able to be in a bad mood or to be alone and quiet.' I totally got that. She had some great stories, and was sweet and fun to talk with.



Another of the group was a guy called Diamond, a tattoo artist, and his story and life outlook really humbled and captivated me. Having an openness and shared (or at least simply respected) outlooks on life with someone you had just met was quite special. It is his story to tell, but i will remember it and I felt lucky to be sitting on this lovely night with such good company - simple and spectacular at the same time. Being a night hawk, I was one of the last staying up. I didn't want the night, or stay, to end.





Ayutthaya was a place that really, and quickly, grew on me. And I left with the happy feeling that this stay had been, that I could come back another time. In any case, the moments would stay with me a long time.

---