Heading north

---

Suzanne here...

After such an idyllic few days, the next section of our trip was unlikely to match up, and indeed it has been a bit of a struggle at times.

We set off from our guesthouse in Haad Yao with some regret. It was a three hour boat trip to the mainland, followed by an hour and a half on the coach, and that was just to get us to the train station. It all went ok though, and we got there in plenty of time. We had about an hour, so decided to grab something to eat. By now we were quite blase about just pointing at whatever looked tasty, and it's served us well. Not this time. We decided to really eat like the locals and eat on the platform. I pointed at two dishes that looked ok and the lovely smiling lady served them up to us. Unfortunately, what had looked nice behind glass looked far less appetising once it was in front of us. One dish was a very bony fish with pineapple, the other something gray and slimy, dogs noses or swan feet perhaps? Not sure, and not sure I want to know. I managed a mouthful of fish, a couple of pieces of fishy pineapple, and a bit of gray slimy stuff before my gag reflex started to kick in. David managed about the same. It had only cost pence, but we didn't want the lovely smiling Thai lady to know we didn't like her food. So I began hiding bits of slimy stuff under my rice. I managed to eat a few more spoons of rice, with lots of sips of water, and then we had to give up, pay and make a run for it.

The train journey was fine, it was a sleeper train which seemed like a bit of an adventure. We were in second class so at the mercy of the people in the lower bunks, who wanted them made up at 8pm, a little early for us. We also felt a bit scammed by a guy who sold us dinner and breakfast, after we ordered we noticed he was only targeting foreigners, which set off alarm bells. Indeed, it turned out to be among the most expensive food we've had so far. Oh well, live and learn. I also learnt that dodgy gray slimy food just before a 12 hour train journey is a mistake. My tummy was not thanking me for it. Much as I usually avoid toilets on trains, I was very glad for it this time. All in all though, it wasn't too bad. Pretty comfortable and we did get a bit of sleep.

We arrived at Bangkok at about 6.45am and bought tickets for the next train out to Ayutthaya. As they were bought at the last minute, they were third class standee tickets. Still, only the price of a can of coke each for an hour and a half journey. We both got a seat, but had to move later on when people with seating tickets got on. Luckily for me, Thai people kept standing up for me and making me sit in their place. Felt a bit cheeky, but even ruder saying no. David had to stand in the end though. It was noisy, crowded and frantic, but an interesting experience.

Finally got to Ayutthaya and the guesthouse 24 hours after we set off. We were a bit taken aback by the cost of the room, 600THB. More than anywhere since Bangkok. However it was a huge room, a suite really, with air con and a hot shower, and it had been a long trip, so we decided to take it. The guesthouse also offered an evening tour of some of the temples, which we decided to go on. In the end it wasn't exactly what we'd been promised, due to various reasons we couldn't get to a couple of the places and the tour was shorter than promised, but it was still worthwhile and I'm glad we did it. All the more so considering the next day.

I woke up with a sore throat and feeling a bit achy. In any case, we went to see the elephants and passed a few interesting temple ruins. A good morning. We stopped for lunch and by then I was feeling seriously ill. I managed an omelette and we headed back to the guesthouse. I barely made it back without collapsing, and was very sick shortly afterwards. Of course, considering our location, I started worrying about dengue fever. However, I've had tonsillitis a few times before, and am pretty confident that's what it is. Sadly it meant we didn't get to see much more of the city. We went out later to get David something to eat, but I had to go back again I felt so bad.

After a terrible night we had to decide whether to stay another day for me to recover or to move on. In decided I might as well be miserable and on the move as miserable and sitting in a 600THB room. Don't get me wrong, Ayutthaya is an amazing place and we've enjoyed it, but I'm just not up to more sightseeing at the moment. At home when you are ill there is usually no great worry. In most cases you either get better, or go to the doctor. Over here, you really need to think about it. Should we go back to Bangkok where we are near better medical care? Not necessary in this case, but it is a consideration. I've also had a small wound on my foot where my flipflop rubbed seven days ago. It just will not heal. In England I wouldn't give it a second thought, but here it is a bit of a concern. I'm sure it will be fine though.

I think we're pretty good travellers. We've learnt to check a place before comitting to stay after camping in an itinerant workers camp in the Czech Republic with strange men peeing near our tent. We've learnt not to camp near a lake without iindustrial-strength insect repellant after being been dive-bombed by mosquitos the size of sparrows in Hungary. We learnt the German for 'platform change' 30 seconds too late in Koblenz. But there are always still things to learn. Don't eat gray slimy stuff before a 12 hour train journey. Plus, air con may feel cooler, but without a balcony, if you don't have a fan to aim at your hand washed clothes, they aint gonna dry.

So, putting on our still sodden clothes, and armed with sick bags, we headed to the bus station.

---