Pamir Highway trip Day 6 - Khorog to Yamchun

---

July 17 - Pamir Highway trip Day 6 - Khorog to Yamchun

Last night I slept pretty well. I think that is the first time in three weeks. I still got up early and decided to use the internet while it was available to update the blog. Very exciting. I also ate some day old bread and repacked quickly, once it was 8:30. We left Khorog at 9am, and started our first day in the Wakhan Valley. It is supposed to have the best views of the whole trip. We are still driving alongside Afghanistan, which is always stunning, but now we can also see the snow-capped Hindu Kush mountains behind them. This is the border between Afghanistan and Pakistan.

First stop of the day was tiny Dasht village, 1.7 km uphill from Anderob village. It had great views of the valley. Along the next part of the drive we passed a famous ruby mine, though we could not see it as it is uphill. The next stop was in Ishkashim, which was where the larger now-closed Afghan market used to be held. At least we were able to go to the smaller one in Khorog yesterday. There was not much in Ishkashim, but we got a couple somsas each for lunch.

Next up was the ruins of Khaakha fortress, which has some sections from as far back at the 3rd century BC. There is not much left now. Nearby we stopped at a small museum that showcases a typical Pamiri house and handicrafts. The man in charge did not speak English, but he gave us a pretty comprehensive and clear tour of the items. He even showed us how to make fire from quartz and serenaded us with Pamiri instruments.

We drove past Darshai and stopped in Yamchun to see the ruins of the 12th century fort. There was a lot more to see of this one. From there we went to the nearby Bibi Fatima hot springs. Before we went in, our driver had us look at a hotel nearby. It was cheap, at $10 for dinner, bed and breakfast, but it was in an old soviet style building with no charm. Also, the toilet was interesting. There were two flushable squat toilets next to each other, separated by a half wall, but with no door, so you could see everything anyway. No thanks. At the hot springs, I got close to going in, but in the end, I couldn't do it. The women's area is separate from the men's area, but you have to be nude to go in. I walked in to the changing room and lasted about 30 seconds. Ridiculous that I couldn't do it, but there you are. Far too American, I guess. As I waited, it started to get quite windy and cool. Finally, a fleece would be needed for tonight. All year I've been waiting for warmer temperatures, and then when it happens, I'm longing for the cooler temps. What is happening?

Afterwards, we went to a homestay for the night. We were a little later than normal and they brought us bread and tea and sweets while we waited for dinner. Anna is a vegetarian, which can be quite hard to explain here, and in the end we all got a veggie meal of fried potatoes with some tomato, cucumber and herb sides. But it was quite tasty. It felt quite cold outside after dinner, and the toothbrushing is outside and the toilet is a walk away, but it was ok. The air was also quite hazy, which started a couple days ago. It seems the wind kicks up the dust from Afghanistan and it carries quite a way. Too bad - the views would be even better without that.

---

Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Tajikistan
Beautiful