Blogs from Murghab, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province, Tajikistan, Asia


Day 18 Alichur to Bashgumbez to Ak Zoo Lake Yurt Stay Sleeping Altitude 4210m, 35km driving distance. Snow fall on the distant Pamirs greets me this morning, very scenic. A solo breakfast in the little kitchen room while the Dutch guys are having their breakfast in the lounge. My bf is huge(!) and consists of tea, coffee, butter, yoghurt, cream, 3 fried eggs, bread and jams- so delicious- I wonder what the Dutch are having, maybe something different to me? I seem to be getting amazing attention. I gave some gifts to Aunty yesterday as well as a tip (she waved the money away but I leave it with her anyway, she seemed really happy with the clothing, I had an extra merino tee and long sleeve tee that I thought would be great through ... read more
Farewell To The Family

Day 15 Chadbar Valley (Somewhere on the Gunt River) to Marjanay Jailoo (Summer Pasture Spot) Sleeping altitude 3840m Highest point altitude 3940m Feel utterly fatigued this morning, really sluggish. Initially I wonder if it's the river water that we are washing everything in but ultimately decide it's probably altitude related. I have absolutely no appetite for breakfast (like in Nepal as we were ascending), but make myself eat something as we have a big day ahead. We are aiming to camp past Yachikul Lake, it involves an overall 400m further altitude gain. Yashikul is a freshwater lake in the Upper Gunt Valley, 3600 hectares with a max depth of 52m and is in the "Bulunkul and Yashikul Lakes and Mountains Important Bird Area". The area is a combo of grassland, desert, wetland and rock habitats. Birds ... read more

Day 14 Guisimo Home Stay, Bachor to my tent in a spot by the Gunt River Sleeping altitude 3523m 07:00 I'm ready as per plan, no one else is (great sleep btw). 07:40 I'm still ready, so is breakfast- rice with milk, Nescafe, M and B have milk choi with bread and butter in it. 09:38 This is so funny, the reason we are still waiting is that the donkey man is trying to find his escaped donkey. Apparently it went AWOL in the night but it has been found... across in the main village. The other major delay is that our leaking gas bottle is still leaking and given that we are on the trail for 3 days we need it. B is attempting to fix it with duct tape and liquid nails. Should be ... read more
The New Toilet
More Door Porn

TAJIKISTAN with the Tajik Outlaws...Part 5. Sherali our guide lives with his wife and two children in Alichur in the High Pamir (see last blog). Zamanbek (Mr Zee) our driver lives with his wife and four children in Murghab.(our next destination). In the 4 months of Summer they must work and earn as much money as possible to support their families as Winter is a gruelling 8 months long...temperatures averaging minus 45 degrees Celsius during the day and minus 55 degrees Celsius at night. In preparation for Winter Sherali buys 3 tonnes of coal and a lorry load of yak dung for fuel. He also buys a lorry load of a woody bush that is used for kindling. These are burnt in a stove in the middle of their dwelling which has pipes running off it ... read more
Yurts in the High Pamir
A lorry load of dung
Mr Zee visits his sister & nephew

It is 220km from Bulunkul Lake to Murghab, but with the sealed highway it only took us 3.5 hrs with a couple of stops; one at the 'holy' pond of the white fish spring, a freshwater spring pond full of fish, a little hut next to it serves up the fish, but it was too early in the day for us to contemplate eating so we passed. It was strange to be on seal after so many days of rough unsealed road, even if some parts were not so good. The scenery was pretty cool - typical high altiplano, but we've been a bit spoilt lately so it didn't blow us away. Murghab sits at 3,618m, and with Khorog, is the only town in the Pamirs. It's known as one of the few points of civilisation, ... read more
Murghab Hotel

I am researching travel to Tajikistan this summer 2013 and wondered if the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan is still closed due to fighting in August in Khorog. We would like to if possible travel to the Wakhan Corridor but don't know if that is possible at this time. We may take our mountain bikes on this trip and am studying the routes including the M-41 and other alternate routes. If anyone has done this let me know. Thanks.... read more

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