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Published: February 13th 2009
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Kandy to Hatton train
The train through the tea plantations
One of my fondest memories of Sri Lanka is having breakfast on the veranda of an old tea planter’s bungalow with the immaculately kept garden in front of us and the tea plantations starting at the end of the lawn. I remember the dew on the grass in the morning, the warm pancake bread (because that is what I used to call it in those days), the butter melting on it, the smells. When I grew older I always thought that the pancake bread probably was naan, roti, chappati or some other type of Indian bread, and I was a bit disappointed that when I arrived in India the taste of the naan or the other breads didn't bring back any memories. After this I thought perhaps that the way they prepared the naan, roti or whatever in Sri Lanka would be different and that once I arrived in Sri Lanka I would recognize the smell and the taste. But again nothing, until... I went into the hills and I saw this bread that looked suspiciously much like the ones in my memory, a thick round bread looking indeed like a pancake. And as I walked in and smelt it I
Adam's Peak
That's where I gotta get for sunrise knew I had found my bread! The memories came back, the taste came back and I still love it!
All this time I have been traveling around Sri Lanka waiting for old memories to be rekindles in some way, get some warm feeling or something like this, but it never happened. I saw our old house, albeit transformed into a Korean restaurant and it meant nothing to me. I went to the beaches, of which I have a lot of nice memories and nothing stirred. I went to Sigiriya of which I remember the steep and scary (in those days) climb up, clinging to ropes and still it wasn't happening for me. I felt that perhaps the memories were too old and too faded to give an emotional response. And then the simple act of smelling and tasting some bread was the trigger for the warm feeling I was seeking. It goes to show that the saying: 'the way to a mans heart is through his stomach’ is very true. But we can't help it; it is genetically imprinted in us!
But the hills have more to offer than just a nice piece of 'mountain' roti, and beside
Adam's Peak
Orange skies the old memories I have now made new ones. The train through the hills is just one of those new moments, it rambles through lush tea plantations and little villages with vegetable patches, through pine forest and jungle like forests, from one amazing view to another.
One of the best views available it that of the sunrise from Adam's Peak. It is a hard climb to the top but as the sun breaches the skies in a blaze of orange, red, yellow and many other colors besides you forget everything and just watch in silence. Adam's Peak is so named because the Christians believe that Adam himself stood atop this peak and took one last longing look at paradise before being kicked out by God. Standing at the top one can well believe where this story came from, unlike Bahrain, which also claims to hold the secret and mysterious garden of Eden, it is easier to see paradise here in its lushness and beauty than in the dry, flat, dessert sands of Bahrain. But then again, Bahrain has the Tree of Life going for it! Buddhist believe that Buddha once contemplated up here and Hindus that Vishnu gazed from
Adam's Peak
More views the same peak. One could say I was in good company. I was not alone however, apart from my fellow tourists and travelers, there were a couple of hundred devoted pilgrims who come not only for the sunrise but to pray at the temple which is located on top. And with the breaking of sunrise so also ended the moments of silence preceding it, with bells ringing and people moving to make their prayers and start the long descent. I too did the same, without the praying that is.
Another train ride and more stunning views and I found myself in Haputale, a town which in itself is not attractive, but whose surroundings more than make up for that. I concluded while walking up to Lipton's Seat, a view point not far from Haputale, that Sri Lanka has the most picturesque tea plantations I have seen so far. I am not sure why this is, it just is. And walking through those plantations I met many a tea picker who wanted me to take her photo, which I was more than willing to do. Friendly smiles were everywhere and the walk to Lipton's Seat was for me more interesting
then the view itself from that self same seat. Not that it isn't spectacular, but it just has tough competition. Nearby was also the Tangamalai Nature Reserve and Bird Sanctuary, where I managed to see no birds whatsoever, though I heard them every now and again. Still the walk was peaceful and the trees, bushes, ferns, insects and what not, enough for me to be more than satisfied.
And so my ramble through the hills was coming to an end, but not quite yet. Ella was my final destinations in the hill. It has good views, but I found the whole village a bit contrived. It seemed to consist of guesthouses and restaurants and not much else. Still the surroundings as in many places in Sri Lanka were outstanding and I had an interesting walk up to Ella's Rock, in which two fellow travelers and myself found ourselves having to run through a burning bush fire half way. The local who we met along the way and had helped us when we got lost in the myriad of small path to the top and who had subsequently decided to guide us, seemingly thought that going through the fire was
Adam's Peak
Shadow of Adam's Peak the fastest way up. Which I am sure it was. It also made for a bit of excitement. On the way down the fire had grown somewhat and even though our guide tried to put out the closest flames to us by beating them with a branch, we decided that it was perhaps best not to go through the whole thing again and turned around, passing the fire a little higher up. It wasn't the flames as much as the smoke that deterred us.
It was a nice climax to my visit to the hill country and after a short stint on my favorite balcony in Kandy I found myself back on the beach in Negombo waiting for my flight out. It is funny, just as I started to get used to the way things are done here, I am leaving it again, back to the warm and chaotic embrace of India. I leave with many new memories and a feeling that I will return again one day soon.
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Ana (that brazilian pharmacist.. remeber?)
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It's always great to read your news and to know that you are having a good time. I love to see the places (and their people) through your pictures and your words. And what you said about the taste of the bread is true.. our memories "awake" easier with a taste or smell.. all those crazy brain connections.. hahaha :)