Annual August Hindu Festival at Nallur Kandaswamy Temple

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Annual August Hindu Festival at Nallur Kandaswamy Temple:

This Hindu temple is one of the oldest (several centuries) and most revered in Sri Lanka. Every August there is a 25-day Festival and people travel from around Sri Lanka and many come from overseas to attend. At our small hotel we met folks from India, Canada and Australia who had come especially for it.

We were happy that our travels got us to Jaffna during the festival time and our hotel was a short walk from it.

We went over to it several times and always dutifully removed our shoes at the barricades so we could be allowed within its proximity. Had we wanted to enter the temple itself, Phil would have had to remove his shirt, too, and the glare from that mass of white skin might have been truly astounding.

During our Catholic upbringings, the idea of going shirtless and barefoot into a church would have been truly shocking and disgraceful. I couldn't even enter one without covering my head with a hat or veil, and my sisters and I each had one dress which was our Sunday best and worn only then.

It is very intriguing to see how other cultures approach the spiritual.

As an enthusiastic May Procession participant, I couldn't wait to be old enough to wear one of those satin gowns like my older sister Susan had being "Queen of the Sea" and lead a class of younger Sunday School kids on a procession around our church. So processions I can understand, and incense, and fine clothes.

The statuary and colorfulness I can understand and appreciate.

But I must admit that the mortifications of hanging by meathooks through my skin is a real challenge to my ideas of approaching a god. I've only ventured in fasting, and haven't been too good at that.

One of the benefits of travel is seeing new things, and the procession on the last day of the festival was definitely new to me.

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Photos

Nallur Murugan Temple from afar
The temple can be seen from quite a distance, but during festival time, the roads to it are blocked off. See the police up ahead?

Nallur Temple from the side
Once you get nearer the temple, there's a "shoe block". You can only enter the immediate surrounds if you're barefoot. There are shelves set up for you to put your shoes on, and a small payment is expected.

Nallur Temple side--closer view
The temple is surrounded by sand, so walking barefoot is easy. Even tender-footed Phil managed, though he was very reluctant to venture forth at first.

Festival atmosphere
On the streets all around the temple there's a festival atmosphere, with lots of stalls selling food, clothing, trinkets, and ice cream.

Nallur Temple Main Entrance
It's a truly massive complex. The red and white striped walls made me think at first they were canvas, like a circus tent, but they're fully structural and fulltime.

Different Temple over-the-walls view
In fact, the red and white walls appear regularly, as you can see from this temple 200km south of Jaffna.

Gods Parading Out
Every night at 6pm the god statues, carefully sheltered by large umbrellas, are paraded out and around the "mountain" in a clockwise direction.

Gods Ascend the Mountain
The three figures are carefully carried up the "mountain" and seated in the chariot.
I presume the biggest one represents the God Murugan, God of War and Victory.

Up the Final Step
And one last effort to seat them securely for the big procession.

The Chariot Lights Up
Dah dah! The procession will now begin.

Acknowledgement by Devotees
The crowd is pleased and signals back their devotion.

Time for Incense
Incense leads the way.

Murugan Chariot moves slowly forward
Men must be barefoot and shirtless to be involved in pulling or accompanying the chariot.

Beautiful People
Everyone is in their best clothes in tribute to the celebration of Murugan.

Sari Finery and time to chat
The crowd was very interactive, people meeting up and talking.

Hanging Devotee
On the final morning of the 25 day festival, many devotees travel to the Temple from all directions, hanging by big meat hooks in their skin!

Hanging Devotee
The man on top of the "chariot" keeps pulling on ropes attached to the hanging man, making him bob up and down as if he's flying. One wonders if this increases the pain.

Hanging Devotee
As you can see, some people watch the procession and for others it's business as usual, time to get to work.

Hanging Devotee 2
This man is hanging upright and also bobbing up and down.

Dancing Devotees
These men carried decorated arches. Some had barbs in their backs and others pulled on ropes attached to those hooks as they danced onward toward the temple--several km away. The little boys didn't have hooks in their skin.

Hanging Devotee 3
This man also had something stuck through his face and he had a long way to go to get to the temple.

Comments

[Michelle Cavanagh]

I have to admit it all looks rather silly to me. What is the point of it? M :(

[Nathan]

we can not forget the memories.
the festivals of the Nallur temple is wonderfull for everyone. thanks for the photos to re-gain our memories.

[Wai]

I am reading ur travel diary. Ur trip is my refreencce. THX!!

[Colin Holmes]

Just hangin' out
My, I am impressed at the commitment displayed by the hanging devotees! One wonders how frequently they can display their devotion - there must be some damage done to them which requires a recovery period.