Cheonggyesan


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Asia » South Korea » Seoul » Seocho-gu
October 18th 2014
Published: November 6th 2014
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Iv'e been wanting to do this hike for ages, and I finally had a free Saturday morning on which I could do it. I always pass this area on the bus, and see all the hikers alighting the subway. I took the Shin-Bundang line, to Cheonggysan Station. The Shin-Bundang line is pretty fancy and the trains are driverless, however that works. I came out of exit two, and there were quite a few hikers about. I had read on someone's blog that this hike is very popular, so try to get there early to avoid the queues. However eight thirty was too late in my book as there were a tonne of people already about. It was a sharp contrast to my hike last week, which was largely people free. I though that the trail would have been nearer the subway station, but it was a five minute walk down the street, under the bridge with the ajummas selling their wares, and past the hiking stores, restaurants, and coffee shops that are part and parcel of hiking in Korea.

There is a big poster board at the start of the trail, with a map of the mountain, its trails and points of interest on it. I decided that I would do the longer, less steep route. I always pick the easy option. This route would take in the two peaks, Oknyeobong and Maebong. It wasn't too busy at the start, there were other people about but not too many, so the trail didn't feel crowded. There were a quite a few steps on the way up. It wasn't too tough. It took me about forty minutes to an hour to reach reach Oknyeobong, the first peak. There were quite a few people at the peak. I think it was a hiking club, judging by the set up, lots of people standing around drinking and eating breakfast, and a table set up with a guy cooking and preparing food for them. It must be nice to have the creature comforts of someone preparing you breakfast for you, and carrying up the hot water for you so you can make a coffee. Maybe one day when I'm rich, I'll have a porter to carry my food and drinks for me. Because of all the people, I didn't linger at Oknyeobong long, as the hiking group had taken all the seats. I admired the view. It was really cool. I could see Seoul Grand Park, Seoul Race Course and Gwanaksan (a mountain). I hadn't realised that there were all so close to here.

I headed back the way I had come and when I reached the point where I had turned right, this time I went left to reach the second peak, Maebong. Cheonggysan has a range of peaks, but the highest peak Manggyeongdae (618 metres) is off limits, as there is a military installation on it. This week and last week, I couldn't reach the highest peaks, due to the military commandeering the peaks. Cheonggye means blue rooster in Korean, but it is often mistaken as meaning blue stream. There were a few boards giving information about the mountain and its wildlife. There was a really nice saying written on one of the boards, "When planting a tree, we have to be as careful as when we rear our children. Once planted, the tree should be left on its own. That is the secret of rearing a tree." Such a nice saying.

I continued on, the hike had kind of plateaued out for a bit. However that didn't last and soon the trail started to rise, there were about a million steps to walk up. Well, not quite a million, but I think I reached the steps at about 400 and they were marked to over one thousand. This was also the point where the trails merged and the paths were a lot busier. I had a good laugh at one point, as at one point where the stairs turn, there is a CCTV camera, watching the hikers. I've seen it all now! Lol! A little way up there was a bit of a clearing and lots of people taking a rest there. You could also see out over Seoul, the view was really good. I even scrambled up a rock to get some better photos. You could see all the tall buildings and the highway filled with traffic going to and coming from the city. Also in the background I could just make out Bukhansan and Dobongsan. It's a shame that there was so much smog about.

Ever upward I continued. There was a Buddhist monk at one point, who was collecting donations for his temple. I presume it was Cheonggyesa. All the other hikers got a bow as they went past, but this monk obviously loves the foreigners because I got a bow, a big smile, and an "Annyeong haseyo" (hello). It's the little things that count. I had read before starting the hike that there is a memorial to soldiers, who had died in a plane crash on the mountain. On June 1st, 1982 at 2:49 pm, a troop transport plane crashed into Cheonggyesan, while trying to reach a landing field in Geoyeo-dong, Seoul, due to dense fog. 53 people died that day, 5 training officers, 44 trainees, and 4 air force soldiers. The War Memorial is about 50 metres off the trail. It was so quiet and tranquil, especially compared to all the hustle and bustle of the hikers. I'm glad I went to pay my respects.

I got to what I thought was the peak, but it wasn't, it was Maebawi, Mae Rock, this had the best views done over Seoul, you could see a lot in the distance. It is a great mix of mountains and urban development. It is the beast that is Seoul. While I am happy, that I don't live in Seoul, I do love the city and all it has to offer. It's just a shame about the smog. Maebawi was quite busy. I continued along for about five minutes to reach Maebong peak. Oh my god! It was like the whole of Seoul had hiked to the pea, there were people everywhere. Needless to say, I didn't stay too long. I snapped a couple of pictures of the peak marker and the view. The view was definitely better at Maebawi and other places on the way up.

I started to make my way back down from the peak. Since there was no where to sit down at the peak, I headed down to the place, where I had taken some photos earlier and stopped there to have a drink and a snack. I saw the Buddhist monk again, and he bowed, smiled and said "Annyeong haseyo" again. What a lovely monk! The trail was definitely getting a lot busier. I decided to head down the steeper, quicker route. Oh my god! Some people have no manners, what so ever! As I said the trail was really crowded, but people were walking two abreast chatting to their mates, meaning the person coming the other way had no where to go. Also the blokes, who are running the trail, could they really not pick a better time, when it is less crowded, instead of barging through the people. However it was really nice to see ordinary people hiking, couples and groups of friends, in normal clothes, like jeans, hoodies, and trainers, it makes a refreshing change form all the people decked out in expensive designer hiking gear.

It took me a while to get to the bottom as my leg was hurting. Me and steps are not friends. I had to stop a lot, as I kept getting a shooting pain through me knee. I had wanted to visit the temple, Cheongyesa, but it eluded me. I thought I would pass it on the way up but didn't. So I kept my eyes peeled on the way down, but failed to see it. It is on the big maps of the mountain, but none of the signposts have it marked on. So I feel a return trip is on the cards, there is another temple in the area, too, that I would like to visit. All in all, a nice morning's hike.


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