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Published: April 3rd 2007
Mokpo Harbour
The beautiful island view from one of the pagodas on Yudul-san mountain Okay, I appologise for the long blog, today was exactly what we came to Korea looking for. Our most incredible day...
We didn't see a single other westerner today. Having made a bit of effort to get out of Seoul and the busiest parts of the country, we very quickly found ourselves far from anything or anyone familiar.
We woke up this morning in the small
Yeogwan that we found last night. Despite being tucked away in a little alley, we had a very peaceful night. The room was a little larger than the double bed against the wall, but there was enough space for a
yo (futon-style) mattress on the
ondol floor (wooden floor heated from beneath). I enjoyed my traditional bed and Cathy slept very well on the double bed, so that we woke up well rested. At onlt $10 each, the
yeogwan was so much better than the $17 each backpackers in Seoul, with its 6 snorers per room. Another surprise bonus was our very own
en suite bathroom! Aah, to be able to start the day clean...
We dropped off the keys to our little room and crosseed the road to the
Mokpo City
Looking out from the mountain peak ferry terminal, having justified spending a bit of money to sea the island that were so enticing us last night. As it turned out, we were able to get a ferry ticket to one of the less touristy islands for only $3.60, incredibly cheap! But the ferry was only due to leave at 1pm. In the mean time we stopped in at a nearby food stall to get some grub. A local guy told us that what he was eating was "very delicious", so we ordered two. "
O'dang" turned out to be a sort of eggy pancake on a skewer, boiled in a meaty broth. For $1 we each got 2 pancakes and a cup of hot broth. It was a welcoming soothe through the icy chill of the strong sea breeze.
While we waited for the ferry, we headed off to Mt. Yudul-san, which stands only 250m high and has a perfect location for a view of the seafront. With spring having sprung, the walk to the top was fantastically decorated with cherry blossoms. From the peak we had an spectacular view of the rows and rows of islands that have been sprinkled across the sea all the
Pagodas in spring
Yudul-san mountainside way to the horizon and beyond. The Dadohae Haseng Marine reserve has 1004-1700 islands, depending on what you count as an island. At the top several Koreans shared with us their hiking snacks of strawberries (Yum!) and seaweed jellies (a little more difficult to swallow appreciatively!). Typically, we noticed that a much larger, clearer path led down the other side of the hill. It turned out to clearly be the main path, with a constant stream of Koreans and several little stalls selling fried snails and other oddities. The views offered by several beautiful pagodas along the way more than made up for the crowds.
Once aboard the ferry, we were still the only Westerners and found ourselves the topic of general interest. The view from the deck was incredible as the boat picked it'sway between the islands, but soon we had to escape the freezing wind and went inside to sit on the wooden floor like everyone else.
About halfway through the trip a man bought us a packet of biscuits. In thanks, we gave him one of the little wire and bead keychains we carry with us. We ended up "chatting" (in single words and hand
Journalling at the ferry terminal
Travelling with just 2 small bags and not needing anything else. What a fantastic feeling! gestures) the rest of the way. He convinced that we would not be able to see much of out intended destination in 1 day on foot and convinced us to rather stay on the boat until his hom island, Bigeum. He also told us that he was a pastor, but that today he would be our tour guide, feed us, and put us up for the night in his church. Wow... Praise God!
Upon landing in Bigeum, be all climbed into the pastor's minibus and headed off on the royal tour. The first stop was the salt pans where the islanders dry seawater and harvest the salt. Knowing the workers, he was able to show us how it all works.
Next stop was Hanuneom Beach. Standing alone on the 4km sandy coastline it is hard to believe that 3-4 million Seoulites cram this beach in summer. It looked like a fantastic place to kiteboard! The empty stretches of water which crisscross between the endless little islands almost drive me crazy with their screams to be ridden! Where's my drysuit?!
Our guide continued the drive along the narrow winding road above the cliffy coastline until we came to
The cheap tickets
Travelling on the floor with the locals - we wouldn't have it any other way the next sandy stretch. Wonpyeong beach is known for the beautiful heart shape formed by the bay when seen from above. Another opportunity to just relish the feeling of sand beneath my feet and the fresh salty sea breeze I've missed so much. Somehow, halfway across the world, it seemed like home was just on the other side of the ocean. It was the closest I've felt to home since leaving.
Our guide even took us over the bridge to Bigeum's sister island and to the main beach there. On the way home, the pastor bought us a few drinks and snacks and then dropped us at his church to make our beds for the night. An hour later he was back again, with his dressed up and very excited wife and 2 boys, to pick us up for supper. We had even more fun with his highly talkative (Korean, of course) boys in the back of the car as he drove us to a local duck restaurant.
Although we could barely communicate, the family taught us the names and how to eat the many dishes which arrived at our table. THe main dish was duck
galbi, whish
Land Ahoy
Islnd hopping by ferry is fried at the table and eaten with other veg by wrapping them together in a lettuce leaf parcel. Sitting cross-legged on the wooden floor in a small room enclosed by paper screen walls with this local family laughing at us and encouraging us, we couldn't help beaming at each other in wonder. The Korean family seemed surprised at how much we ate, but even after we had finished, there was still so much food left on the table. I don't think Koreans expect to finish the food they order.
Back at the church, we heard the pastor and a few other voices next door. We looked in and were invited to join them for prayers and bible study. We took turns to read aloud from the Bible, us in English and them in Korean while we all sat on the floor and shared Korean rice cake. It was such a priviledge to be so at home with members of our spiritual family, hardly able to communicate, but enjoing God together. Awesome.
Cath and I returned to our room to pray, and get some much needed rest. Cathy on the bed, me on the floor, sharing one duvet.
Salt Pans
Sea dehydrating in the sun
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Anne
non-member comment
your visit to Jello-islands-place sounds amazing. You must be still in "travel-shock" ... that's what struck me about Asia, EVERYTHING is different. Has the anti-calculus toothpaste worked - is High School Maths burshed out of your minds?