Left Busan as leisurely as I arrived and made my way to Jeju Island, the largest of the islands surrounding the Korean peninsula. Jeju is a volcanic island and full of mountains/extinct volcanoes and their leavings (the cities I have seen so far seem to be entirely paved in pumice, which is quite a nice effect). Jeju's primary industry was, unsurprisingly, fishing. Given the strong Pacific currents and whims, a lot of the menfolk were killed or away at sea for long periods. As a result, the island was a de facto matriarchy and is apparently famous in Korea for the fortitude of its women. In particular, the women used to dive (to quite extraordinary depths, unaided) to collect oysters, and apparently there are certain villages in Jeju and its surrounding islets where this tradition is
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