Three Days in Singapore

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I spent three days in Singapore and it wasn't nearly enough time. I was there for the obvious tourist reasons and for a few personal reasons as well. I already hope to go back, I just don't know when. (But it won't be soon enough!)

Day One

I knew I had a lot of things I wanted to do, but in the interest of time (and visiting things that were open during CNY) I decided to visit the Old Ford Factory Museum on the west side of town. I took the MTR quite a distance and then transfered to bus 173, the driving graciously letting me know when to disembark.

The current exhibit is about life in Singapore during the Japanese occupation from 1942 until their surrender. My grandparents lived in Singapore until just before this period, and I wanted to get a sense of what life was like then and what they were lucky enough to miss. The exhibit was well done and personal, just the way I thought it should be.

After the museum I needed a pick-me-up and headed to the Botanical Gardens. It's not just one garden or even two, but six plus a few specialized paths. Though it was overcast, I decided to see as much as I could before the rain or sunset, whichever came first.

The National Orchid Garden was my favorite--there were so many varities to see! I never knew so many different kinds of orchids existed. I wandered though it, getting lost a few times, but enjoying every minute.

I tried to see the Ginger Garden but the rain started, so I opted for an ice cream break under an awning instead. I managed to also see the Evolution Garden (the plants change as you walk along the path, signaling the passing of time), the Healing Garden (medicinal plants, categorized by the part of the body they help), and the Peace Garden. I could have stayed longer, but the sky was dark and I took that as my cue to leave.

I decided to walk along the waterfront, but despite my best efforts, no one quite seemed to be able to help me until I was thoroughly lost and near despair. All I wanted was a pretty view of the city and the water and then dinner. I happened to ask a security guard and he pointed in the general direction. Then another stranger helped me with more detailed directions (including which mall to cut through), sending me off with the words, "Enjoy Singapore." I finally arrived at Esplande Mall and walkway, the glorious views of the skyline over the water were mine!

I wandered around a bit more, taking in the scenery and looking for a special place to eat. It took a few bridges and underpasses but I eventually found myself along the Singapore River and North Bridge Road. I discovered numerous seafood restaurants along the Boat Quay and after scouting them out (for deals, prices, and their friendliness) I chose one. I decided that the famed Singapore chili crab was out of my budget and instead opted for chili prawns and some veggies. It was without a doubt the most expensive meal I've had in years and quite possibly one of the best I've ever eaten. I savored every bite while taking in the views of the city and chatting with fellow restaurant patrons who were also traveling through.

On my way back to my hostel I strolled (gotta walk off that dinner!) and got some night shots of Raffles Hotel. It's hard to believe that this is where my grandparents once lived and strolled and socialized, and now I'm here 71 years later. So many questions; I hope to get some answers.



Day Two

I took the bus into the city today from my hostel. It'll be cheap! It'll go direct! Just ask the driver when you should get off! My hostel was full of assurances. Except that waiting for the bus took half an hour and I somehow managed to get one of the few people in the city who didn't speak English as my driver... even though he acted like he knew what I was asking. Sigh. I like to think of it as a scenic detour.

I first went to the WWII Victims' Memorial and then on to St Andrew's Cathedral. Both places were so peaceful, it's hard to remember that they're in the middle of a major city. I then walked by the Cricket Club and tried to visit the Battle Box museum in the park. I found it, but with only a flimsy paper sign on the door saying "closed until further notice." That's not helpful. I was quite disappointed, especially after reading so many great reviews online.

Across the street was the National Museum. Since the rain had started to fall, a museum seemed a good choice. And since it's a public holiday (still), I got in free! There were several tantilizing exhibits to choose from, and I opted for learning about the 700 years of Singapore's history. You're given an audio guide and can choose if you want to learn about the history by facts and dates or by personal stories and accounts. I opted for the latter, but it is possible to cross back and forth between both narrations as you please.

Around 2pm, I tried the famed Kaya toast and it's as good as I'd hoped. Well, better, actually. I didn't have high expectations for something called toast, but it proved to be amazing. Kaya spread is a concoction made of coconut and I don't know what else. But really, good bread, generous butter, coconut spread, all served with runny eggs and black coffee? It doesn't get much better than this for, uh, late brunch.

Time to hit Chinatown. Yes, I know, why would a woman who lives in China go to Chinatown? Because it's not the same. And there's a large Chinese community and cultural influence in Singapore, so it's really part of the whole Singapore package. I stopped by a food court for some milk tea and marveled at all the good eats, wishing I was hungry. And older gentleman decided to join me and he proceeded to tell me which stalls were the best, which foods were easiest to take home and eat later. A few others joined us or stopped to say hello. Later, when I walked around (after the gentleman left) I got a thumbs up from another man and quite a few smiles and happy/surprised looks from others. It's almost as though I'm the first non-Asian they've seen in the food court.

I paid a visit to the Buddhist temple with the Buddha Tooth Relic. The temple was stunning and monks tried to befriend me. I tried because there's just something odd about a monk enthusiastically asking you for your phone number--while his friend excitedly look on--that feels odd. After that, I walked a few blocks down to the Hindu temple (yes, also in Chinatown--Little India is newer and many Indians used to live in and near Chinatown). The Hindu temple smelled just as I remembered and it took me back to my trip to India four years ago. Same music, same smells, same lovely feeling of peace. I walked by the mosque later, but, since I lacked appropriate attire, I didn't go in.

I took the MTR to Little India. Half an hour was enough for me. I was stared at more than I liked and remembered some other things from my trip to India that I didn't care for as much. Mostly, too, there were just shops and hawkers, and lots of restaurants, but not a lot of "cultural" things to see.

I ate dinner at the food court near my hostel, sharing beers with another woman from my dorm room. She's a Kiwi and moving to Singapore for work. We had quite a bit to chat about and had a great time making friends with one of the workers who seemed sweet on her.



Day Three

My final day and I can finally do what I've been wanting to from the start: visit the National Archives. The Archives have been closed for CNY and just reopened. I arrived right after they opened at 9 and left a bit after noon. Everyone was quite helpful, though we found very little information. But I have a few ideas for where to go searching next. It's easy to forget that while everything nowadays is digitally organized, records in the 1930's and 40's weren't and more digging is required, often with more starting information. And of course, I'm sure some records were lost during the war.

I decided to celebrate with a refreshing Singapore Sling at Raffle's Long Bar. While the bar itself has moved within the building over the years, it's still got the same feeling it did all those years ago (judging by the photos on the walls). An elegant and relaxing experience (it is a peanut bar) and the drink lived up to my expectations. I just sat back, enjoyed, and took it all in while reflecting on all that I'd seen and learned while here.

For dinner, I met some friends of mine that I met in Kuching. The guy I won the CNY prize with arrived here the day after I did and the friend we woke up in the middle of the night lives here. We went out for dinner in Little India and then relaxed with a few cold beers back at our friend's apartment. We chatted about lots of things over the hours, but what we agreed upon most is that it's the people you meet who make the trip special and memorable. You can visit the nicest place in the world but with dull/rude people you don't enjoy it as much; on the other hand, the least desirable location or situation can be made fun and memorable if you're with great people.

So I sat under the starry sky in Singapore, enjoying my cold Tiger, with two new friends. It's the perfect ending to an amazing trip.

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Photos

Old Ford Factory Museum
The pictures were drawn by an inmate at a camp and depict life in the camp.

Old Ford Factory Museum
The room where the British surrendered to the Japanese.

Love this
Botanic Gardens

Comments

[Christopher]

Singapore 1942
Hello, I have read your Singapore blog with much interest. I was there four years ago and like you had personal reasons for learning more about life under the Japansese. My Grandfather was stationed there with the British army and captured in 1942, where he then spent the remainder of the occupation in Changi POW camp. Not a nice experience which affected him the rest of his life, although he lived to be 88 ! Anyway, on a more cheery note I think your Orchid photos are stunning. Chris

[Home and Away]

Singapore memories...
you have to do more digging someday and find more about your grandparents. My earliest memory of Singapore was the decorations at the Raffles Hotel for Queen Elizabeth's Coronation Day in 1953. We stayed there on our way from Darwin, Australia to Bangkok, Thailand.