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Published: April 30th 2006
Friday 21st - Tuesday 24th
Last day at Dolphin Bay. Not seen any dolphins but think perhaps it’s too hot, never below 35 degrees. Our new friend, a local dude, has assured Hugh that they’re about in the evening.
The weekend brought a new style of resident. Last week was predominantly European, now, large Thai families. The well to do of Bangkok me thinks. We hear them around 7 - 7.30 am in the pool but by 10am the place is deserted (avoiding the intense sun from 10 till 4). Light skin, I'm told, being considered a reflection of health, wealth and beauty. We, naturally, haven’t grasped this and boldly march about with lots of pink bits commenting on how hot it is! Katie remains untouched as we slip, slap, slop on a frequent basis. She has loved it here. She and her new friend (Juliet from Hong Kong) spend the day in the pool or on the beach.
Hugh was taken on at table football by a succession of young Thai waiters, who weren’t dulled by beer and heat. He did ok and it was pretty entertaining to watch.
Morning school has started with Katie directing a rather
confused pair on the routine.
Batteries charged by ten days doing very little, tomorrow we head for Kanchanaburi to visit the memorial at the River Kwai then on to Yannasampanno Forest Monastery to see the tame tigers (rescued by Buddhist monks), and then Bangkok for a night before heading to Singapore by train…the adventure begins now.
Love to all.
PS Anyone have tips on how to repel mosquitoes? Despite attempts with a variety of repellents, they have decided I’m a five course dinner!
Saturday 29th April
Well. We’ve had a busy old time since we last wrote. We’ve left Dolphin Bay, a place we would recommend to anyone with young children wanting to chill out. It is so quiet compared to Hua Hin that appears to have developed hugely in the past ten years or so. Nice to visit for the buzz but good to get back to the tranquility of Pranburi. It is fabulous and very reasonable compared to a holiday in Europe. It is true what they say about Thailand. We’ve never met such consistently kind and helpful people. Kirsten has given me some great ideas for trips in Australia and New Zealand but more of
that later.
We bade an early farewell and headed north to Kanchanaburi. Probably the hottest day since we got here and we were cheerily informed that we were heading to the hottest area of Thailand. We soldiered on taking in the River Kwai and the Tiger Temple which are pretty awesome for opposite reasons. One, a reflection of man’s inhumanity to man. The other, how kindness and tolerance can tame the wildest of creatures.
The tourist machine has certainly got in on the action at River Kwai (good on John Mills and the boys) with dozens of tourist stalls that would do Blackpool proud. Yet we still felt the ghosts and memories of loss suffered by many nations.
On to the tigers. Katie was her usual stoic self braving sweltering temperatures for a chance to pat a tiger. Which she did. The monastery is completely untouched by the tourist machine. It is tranquil, silent, still. The tigers were given to the monks having been poorly treated or orphaned. They have been reared with love and so don’t see us as potential dinner. Still, we had to sign a disclaimer just in case. They also have wild pigs, oxen, ponies and
peacocks. It was a bit pongy so Katie held her nose for some of the tour. She was fascinated by the Buddhist monks. We had seen a procession with their bowls heading to the temple at Pranburi, local people running out to them with gifts of water and food. She was told that the monks won’t even kill a mosquito. This has been repeated to us every time we spray the Jungle Formula!
We left the peace and headed off to Bangkok to a most luxurious hotel. Having been traveling for 10 hours in our worst “British tourist abroad” outfits (I refer to my husband here. Katie and I looked cool and elegant, as ever!) Reality hit home as we’re confronted with top city chic. Bangkok’s trendiest area with a fabulous rooftop pool and Jacuzzi. Gorgeous. We had dinner in the bar downstairs which felt like a scene from Lost in Translation. Bangkok is as we imagined. Fast and furious, pretty grotty in parts but we didn’t feel threatened at all. We lapped it up for a night and a morning then…………
on to the overnight train to Hat Yai, arriving at 6.30am.
It is a traditional Thai city -
3rd biggest in Thailand - untouched by western culture as such. We found a wee hotel that rented us a room for half a day and gave us a chance to freshen up and rest before checking out the markets. The foods here are amazing. An enormous variety of fish, eyes and all on offer. We’re still a bit squeamish about trying unidentifiable foods. Katie is living on crisps, fried chicken rice and fruit. Got some touristy trinkets and resisted a load of tat (oh for an empty suitcase) then on to the second leg. Pretty hairy moment when we were directed to walk over five tracks with our bags to get to platform 4…no bridges required in Hat Yai and no staff to carry the luggage!!! Katie well excited.
Trains are pretty good here. Cheap and on time. We had the luxury of a bed for the first night but had to sit it out from Hat Yai to Kuala Lumpur.
A gruelling 20 hour journey for Hugh and I but the blonde is a natural traveller and settled to sleep after taking in all the action and scenery. It is a fantastic way to see the country and
meet authentic Thai and Malaysian people. They are fascinated by Katie’s white skin and blonde hair. She has got used to people touching her and smiles politely.
Arrived in Kuala Lumpur at 6.30 am. Cultural differences are so immediate. Dress style now Muslim lead with the women wearing heads covered. People seem more reserved, still very pleasant, but different and no beer for sale on the train... Kuala Lumpur looked worth a longer stay but we were booked on the train to Singapore so with reluctance we set off on the last leg of our 52 hour journey.
A comfortable journey down to Singapore followed, the focus being on who would see the first to see bananas growing on the miles of banana trees lining the track! Sad but fun at the time.
It’s pretty obvious that few tourists arrive in Singapore by train. The station is very basic with no ATM in sight! We managed to get some Singapore dollars and headed for our hotel.
The sheer bliss of lying in cool, cotton sheets cannot be over emphasized. Katie is delighted to be here. An outdoor swimming pool and a McDonalds on every corner. We are slightly less impressed.
We tried to get excited by the massive shopping malls but they’re simply too scary. We think we may be missing the laidback approach of Thailand. The book stand at the hotel is full of books on how to improve your profits, make your business work etc…..no sign of happy holiday reading material here. Profit and money are what it seems to be about. It's expensive too. We thought we'd prefer it to Bangkok but I'm not so sure now. We’re doing the tours tomorrow which may cheer us up -orangutans at the zoo, the night safari and 83 m aquarium with a pink dolphin show - starting with a Singapore Sling at Raffles. The adults have to be allowed some fun. We’ve worked out if Katie gets her nuggets and chips we’re allowed to experiment. Catering for all needs. Never thought I’d say I was glad to see a McDonalds but I am. She’s been great at adapting but needs indulged occasionally.
Will let you know how we get on when we get to Darwin.
xx to all
P.S. Thank you for writing back to us P2 and P3.
Answers to your questions regarding the elephants are
that they weren’t too scary just big and slow.
They are herbivores, eating up to 300 kg of leaves, trunk, grass and fodder a day. When Katie was feeding the elephants they weren’t tied up and the baby elephant to a whole bunch of bananas and ate it at once. It was very noisy.
It has been very hot here…over 35 degrees in the shade but we have had air conditioning in our room so it isn’t too difficult to sleep.
The food is not too spicy but Katie still prefers mince and potatoes! Lots of love Katie xx
PPS Hello to Hannah and Harry. Katie was feeding the elephant bananas. She had written postcards but they were our first casualty getting lost in Hat Yai. Will send one from Australia. We miss you xx
PPPS You're right, as always, Susan. There are many happy wee folk in Scotland. I stand corrected. Tan has improved. Sat in the shade and read books. Too hot for direct contact. Give our love to Johnny and co. Have sent pc to Dad. Am not sure he'll find this on the net! Good luck with the walk. xx
PPPPPs Thanks too
to Kirst, Arthur and Karen. Nice to hear from home.
Just heard the news about John Prescott...that explains why he looks so knackered. xx
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Aoife!!
non-member comment
Hey Hugh, Mary Jane and Katie!! Katie you are SOOOOO lucky to be petting that Tiger!! The first few days you left Niall would not go into the playroom because he missed Katie too much!! your journey so far sounds fantastic and I would not blame you for wanting to get off that train!! Well have to go now and steal some of mums birthday cake or yummy Teddy's bakery Apple Pie!! Missing you lots!! Aoife!! xoxox