Day 5: Am I Here Yet? (55lbs of spaghetti sauce)

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When i told Pearl I was coming to the Philippines she was excited. I had at least one message a day for 40 days leading up to the trip. When her mom asked me to bring package for Pearl i said no problem, I would be happy to bring something to her. I could carry it with me until I made my way down south to Davao... but to say Pearl was excited spoke nothing of the zeal her mother took with my travel. My plans quickly changed when a giant box arrived on my doorstep. 55lbs of spaghetti sauce, dried apples and toilet paper. SOOOO i guess im going to see pearl first thing then? good thing i dont like making plans.


It took me around 60 hours of travel time but I've finally arrived. From SFO to LA to S. Korea there was no indication I was actually travelling anywhere. The plane was stuffed full of Koreans, Chinese, and Filipinos just like home. 12 hours later i was in Seoul just praying that Krazy Kim Jong wasnt going to decide to shoot down passenger airplanes. Krazy old Kim Jong. Hes crazy. Another 8 hours and i was in Manilla floating customs only to wait 45 minutes for the 1 airport shuttle to shuffle the masses between their 3 terminals. People sweating profusely from heat, humidity, and razor thin transfer margins.


I finally made it to Davao after 32 hours of airport fun where Pearl (UCSD friend) had been waiting with her landlord to pick me up. The air was thick with humidity and that sweet garbagey smokey smell we all love. I was not in Daly City anymore. We hopped on the back of his Jeepney and jumped in traffic. We made it through the chaotic tangle of Philippine "roads" where they follow "laws". Intersections were an article of faith. He who has the biggest balls shall pass at the highest speed.


Without incident we made it to Pearls house. I fell asleep after she unpacked the box her mother sent with me. It was like Christmas in May as lotions and fiber bars and coffee, tea and chocolate milk mix filled her shelves beyond capacity.

The next morning we decided to go. Made it to the bus with 30 min to spare (never calling ahead of course). A beautiful 8 hour ride through the mountains of central Mindanao where palm oil, coconut, and banana farms gave way to expanses of rice paddies with wandering kalabao (carabao, water buffalo). We managed to catch a van to Surigao City that night and slept at a bus stop travel lodge for $3. Next morning we got to the ferry on time after very little sleep. Apparently the roosters around here dont always wait for light but instead go by the clock. 2am. thats when they start. Thats when the bus stop music party starts too. Sleeping is stupid anyways.


The ferry was about the last bit of sitting i could put up with, totally exhausted but unable to sleep. It was the 50 somethingth hour of sheer transit and i was beat. We managed to make to to General Luna on Siargao (pronounced Shar-gao) and found a crazy nice resort style hotel for Php1000 a night (about $10 each). We wandered the small and friendly town until night. People here dressed less formally than in Davao, where Catholic guilt and Muslim shame underly every aspect of life, but Pearl still warranted stares from every single person we passed. Her tattoo of the sacred heart in the center of her chest glaring from her bathing suit.

Siargao is a surfing paradise... when there are waves... aka not now. With direct Pacific exposure, Cloud 9 is one of the best breaks in the world, hosting 2 major events a year. Swell pummels the island from Aug to Nov. It is currently 1-2ft and pointy on the bottom. Siargao is also relatively undeveloped for tourism. It is stilll a large part of the economy here but there are 4-5 hotels in town as opposed to the 5000 hotel rooms of Boracay. We met ex-pats living the dream. An american man who served in Korea married to the hottest 28 year old Filipina in the country. A russian who carried 2 Philippine eagles with him in cardboard boxes, a gift from some tribal prince in the mountains in Mindanao... and they talked about all the others who lived on the island, mostly veterans putting their pensions to good use. Living like kings.


We snorkeled a bit on an industrial reef, half dead from overfishing but still spectacular, and laid out on Naked Island, a treeless sand spit rising above the reef. We are pretty burnt now. Sunscreen would have been a good choice but planning ahead is for idiots.

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Comments

[wes fan]

awesome blog!
Keep it up