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Asia » Philippines » Siquijor
May 18th 2007
Published: August 6th 2007
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The Attic



A ferry, jeepney (an elaboratly painted share truck/van with wooden benchs in the back and luggage storage on top), and a huble-huble (older motorbikes equipped with customized racks for larger loads) ride later we had arrived at KooKoo’s Nest near Dumagete on Negros Island. We didn’t have a reservation for a cottage, and they were all full, so we ended up in an improvised room which really was the attic above the bar. Width-wise the attic just fit a mattress and length-wise we had just enough room for our bags. Standing was not an option, but, we've discovered, most things can be accomplished kneeling anyways. Although we were in cramped quarters it didn’t really matter because daylight hours were spent at the beach in lounger chairs reading or in the open sea diving.


Turtles Live at Apo



We made a day trip out to Apo Island, renowned for its diving and we were not disappointed. On our first dive an old turtle about four feet in diameter had fish clinging to its back and rust coloured algae growing off of its neck swam up from the bottom and passed us not more than two meters away. Later that same dive we spotted another turtle, smaller, nestled into soft corals for a rest. At the second dive site the current was pretty strong and it whisked you along so there wasn't time to admire the coral; it was like a movie without pause. But it was fun moving so quickly without any effort. We did pass by a school of jackfish, currently in mating season. They were paired up - a silver fish with a black fish right beside like a mirror image.


Night Lights



One evening before dinner we loaded into KooKoo’s little motorboat and took a short ride around the corner and into a bay filled with a dozen anchored sailboats (one even from Vancouver, BC!) Only one dock enters the bay and at the end of the dock is a rustic restaurant serving cold beer, which was the purpose of the boat ride. On the way back to KooKoo's I leaned outside of the boat’s canopy and saw the Milky Way like a brush stroke lighting up the sky and it looked absolutely amazing. The boats wake was making the water sparkle and I trailed my fingers in the ocean
View Of Negros From Apo IslandView Of Negros From Apo IslandView Of Negros From Apo Island

Fantastic diving, but strong currents!
making it twinkle from the phosphorescence. Pulling into the dock little sea creatures swam by and left a solid trail of light in the water like a flowing cape. It’s at this point I have an enlightening moment (likely aided by two beers on an empty stomach) and think to myself, “I may already be in heaven.”

After dinner we sat on the beach in wicker loungers and watched a fantastic light show. To the east, lighting lit up a towering cloud every few minutes while to the west it was clear and we spotted constellations and the odd roving satellite. It was memorable moment by Mother Nature.


Off to Siquijor



After a few days it was time to move on to another island paradise. It also happened to be the Mid-Term Elections; a day that had the potential to be quite eventful for the country. Since being here, we’ve heard reports of candidates being mysteriously shot and a few regions have a night curfew in effect. Also staying at KooKoo’s was an English girl, Nancy, who was working with the organization Action Against Hunger in the restless southern islands of Mindanao. Nancy had timed her
Amazing SunsetAmazing SunsetAmazing Sunset

Hard Rock Resort on Siquijor
holiday to be off Mindana for the election and wasn’t allowed to return until a few days after. Arriving at the port things were quiet and finding lunch was a challenge as most restaurants and businesses were closed, but other than that things went smoothly for us.

In the evening we boarded a big old boat with fellow traveler, Emily, and headed to the island of Siquijor. Minutes into the ferry journey the TV onboard broadcast a few voyager’s prayers which included the phrase, “In shipwreck be our saving harbour, Oh Lord.” Not the best confidence builder before heading to sea but thankfully we made it to land with no problems whatsoever. Thank you Jesus! Once on land, however, transport to a guesthouse was scarce. We refused a tricycle ride for an obscene price of 150 pesos ($3.75CND) and ended up standing under a streetlight on the side of the road for quite some time. Eventually, a motorbike stopped and two flamboyant young men with short jean shorts, tight t-shirts and pretty hand-bags got off. They were clearly in touch with their feminine side, but also extremely helpful, and ended up giving the three of us (Jarrod, Emily and
WaterfallWaterfallWaterfall

Siquijor
I) with all our bags a lift to a guesthouse a few kilometers out of town. Good thing Jarrod was there as I don't know how much help two girls would have recieved from them.

Our fist day on Siquijor we rented a motorbike to circumnavigate the island. Driving along the coastal road we passed not one, but two, life sized dummies with a noose around its neck swinging in the breeze over the road from an overhanging tree branch. We figure it might be subtle messages from cock-fight money lenders… but really we have no idea, it’s just another weird thing we’ll likely never get an explanation for.

The following day three of us (Jarrod, Emily and I) loaded on to the motorbike again and went in search of the island’s waterfall. We found it easily enough and stripped down to our bathing suits for a swim. Emily and I were immediately surrounded by young men years our junior inviting us out to the disco and asking for our cell phone numbers so they could text us (apparently Filipino’s text the most out of any country). The boys were astonished that we didn’t have cell phones so
Carol In Front Of Our CottageCarol In Front Of Our CottageCarol In Front Of Our Cottage

Enjoying a morning dip. Out of Bed and into the Ocean. Hard Rock Cottages
moved on to option two: could they have our email address? Disappointment ran high when Emily wouldn’t give out her email; however I cheered them up by giving out some random email address that I do not own. Apologies to carolk@hotmail.com. Two young men invited Emily and I to explore a cave behind the waterfall, however, they said it was dark inside so we declined. I’m sure there would have been some “accidental” touching if we had gone in the cave based on their insistence of more than one good-bye kiss, preferably on the lips. They are a friendly culture… and persistent.

We’ve settled in at a gem of a guesthouse called Hard Rock Cottages. With no other hotels within a few kilometers we’ve got privacy and the ocean to ourselves. Our hut is perched up on the rocks, a stone’s throw from the ocean. At high tide beautiful clear blue water is lapping at the rocks and the white sand bottom is soft as pillows on your feet. Low tide is great for beach-combing with plenty of little critters to discover. Plenty of star-fish (which pile on top of each other… not sure if it’s mating thing or
Another Amazing Sunset Another Amazing Sunset Another Amazing Sunset

We don't get tired of watching this show every night. Siquijor
not) and hoards of
Another Amazing Sunset
We don't get tired of watching this show every night. Siquijorlittle blue crabs that disappear into the sand as you approach. I can spend hours milling about out there! To top things off the sunsets are absolutely stunning with bright orange skies reflecting in the low tide ponds of water. The sunsets would rate 11 out of 10 they’re that good! Each evening between 5:50pm and 6:30pm Mother Nature is truly in her glory. At night the only lights are from lone fisherman way out at sea. The sound of the ocean melts into the background while a choir of crickets takes centre stage until morning. All day, and into the night, its idyllic.

Hard Rock is a place that we’ve decided to linger.... We've been here three nights and it will likely be a few more days of going for a morning swim, reading in the afternoon and sipping refreshments while taking in the sunset. If we’re energetic we might make it back to the waterfall

It’s a rough life.

Next Stop: We have no idea… likely another island




Travelers Tips:
We’d definitely recommend Hard Rock
Hanging Out In Front Of The CottageHanging Out In Front Of The CottageHanging Out In Front Of The Cottage

Hmmm...might stay here for a little while?
Cottages for people who are looking to relax from the stresses of traveling. It’s a
Hanging Out In Front Of The Cottage
Hmmm...might stay here for a little while?small place (only 4 cottages: 2 on the water, 2 on the cliff top), the food is good and the family is very kind.

Hard Rock Cottages, Bitaug, Enrique Villanueva, Siquijor, Philippines
www.hardrockcottages.com
cell: 63 926 2786070 or 63 926 4773348
Cottages aprox 500-700 pesos
Meals 90-150 pesos



Additional photos below
Photos: 23, Displayed: 23


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Starfish At Low TideStarfish At Low Tide
Starfish At Low Tide

Carol is an avid beach comber!
Swimming Hole At The WaterfallsSwimming Hole At The Waterfalls
Swimming Hole At The Waterfalls

Now this is tropical bliss!
Sea UrchinSea Urchin
Sea Urchin

He had a sad ending as some small boys came along and discovered some new ways to end his life :( Carol's still upset about it
Waterfalls At The Swimming HoleWaterfalls At The Swimming Hole
Waterfalls At The Swimming Hole

Great fun jumping off the top of the waterfalls!
Crazy Sky Of The PhilippinesCrazy Sky Of The Philippines
Crazy Sky Of The Philippines

It was this cloud that had lightning in it after dark KooKoo's Nest, Negros
Kids Jumping Off The Boat At Apo IslandKids Jumping Off The Boat At Apo Island
Kids Jumping Off The Boat At Apo Island

As soon as you approach they swim for the boat..."something new to play on" Parents, what parents
Koo Koo's NestKoo Koo's Nest
Koo Koo's Nest

Our home on Negros for a few days. Very relaxing!
Proper Voting!Proper Voting!
Proper Voting!

The election was mid-May... Commandment #5 & 6 are quite interesting


20th May 2007

Rough life you're living there - if I were you, I would never come back....
20th May 2007

Great!
luv your blog on the islands. it truly is paradise out there. aren(t the people lovely?
22nd May 2007

The sunsets are stunning. I'm glad you found a place so beautiful to relax. Were you scared of this fish when you were diving?
25th May 2007

Sooooo Inviting !
Your blog makes me want to leave my office desk and take a flight to the Philippines right now and have the same experience as yours !
26th May 2007

Hi! Your blog's really really nice; the pictures, great!! I live in the Philippines, and your pictures make ME want to explore Siquijor. I've travelled to a lot of islands here but not to Siqiujor... Amazing isn't it--- all you've got to do is point and shoot. Nature puts on a grand show in many islands here. Your pictures help promote my country as a paradise worth discovering too. Thanks for posting them:) On the locals, specially in remote places, some really flock to foreigners like bees to honey, and become so friendly it's intrusive (yes, they do sometimes think fair skin's prettier). Bravo for keeping your cool and still managing to enjoy the awesome falls of Siquijor.

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