Skiing, Swimming and Snorkelling - part 3

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As per our previous 2 'blog' entries, we are currently in the Philippines on the island of Palawan (which is SSW of the island of Luzon on which Manila is located).

In the 2 previous 'blogs', we wrote of our current journey in Japan (skiing), and the first week in the Philippines; (Manila, Basuanga , diving on coral reefs, and our travel from Coron to El Nido with Tao Expeditions ).

This 'blog' describes our journey in El Nido, the bus ride from El Nido to (island capital) Puerto Princesa, and our stay in the capital. From Puerto Princesa we depart via Manila and Singapore to home.

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DAY 1

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The previous afternoon we had departed the Tao 'base camp' near Dipnay (local name - San Fernando the government name) at the very north of Palawan island. A motorboat took us to Dipnay wherein we were loaded onto a minibus for the 1/2 hour ride to El Nido. After booking in to our accommodation at Coron-Coron (2km south of El Nido CBD), we were delighted at the room allocated; large, very comfortable, with a spacious deck and overlooking the ocean. We elected to have dinner at the accommodation and were rewarded with an amazing sunset over Bacuit Bay.

After the 'basic' (but enjoyable) facilities on the Tao Expidition, we felt like royalty in the luxurious surroundings and slept well into the morning. With a few days 'on location', we decided to take our time (today) and investigate the various options to visit the nearby Karst archipeligo.

El Nido has the reputation as the spot for tourists to explore the Karst scenery and has become a destination for international tourists. We learnt during the day that tourist numbers were down significantly (due to the coronavirus). The locals we spoke to were upbeat about this as they are not fans of the mass Chinese tourism that had developed over the past decade.

We secured a place on a boat for the following day and headed into the El Nido 'heart' (term used here) to partake some amber fluid at a local micro-brewery. While it was not the best we'd ever tasted, after too many days on 'water rations' we were in no mood to quibble - it went down well.

The 'heart' of El Nido is no CBD. Rather, it is a ramshackle maze of streets developed to cater for the increasing influx of (mostly backpacker) tourists. The more affluent tourists target Coron-Coron or Tay-Tay (further south). The ambience was similar to the backpacker tourist 'hotspots' elsewhere in SE Asia.

With sufficient 'refreshment', we took a tricycle back to our digs for a meal of local fish (and chips).

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DAY 2

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We had organised a tour (C) from the range of 4 options. We'd learnt that the local officials restricted the boat operators to sell only the 4 options. The commencement time was 8:30, but ...

At 9:30 we learnt that each tour group must register their patrons for the day with the local authorities (manually), then with the approval form, gain another approval from the Coast Guard to begin the journey. We departed closer to 10am!

We'd been assured 'our' boat would visit the Tour C options in different order to others so that we'd incur less crowding. With an absence of Chinese, and with dwindling international tourist numbers, we'd hoped for an enjoyable day visiting the various beaches and snorkelling (again) in the delightfully clear aquamarine waters.

Low tourist numbers meant that there were only 3 of us on board (with 4 staff). The boat caters for 30!

But, if tourist numbers are down, we'd hate to be there when the numbers are plentiful. There was overcrowding at every stop! At one stop there were more than 30 boats moored! That said, our boat did moor at a couple of places where there was only one other boat.

We make these comments not to whinge, but explain that (like Boracay) tourism appears to have gotten out of hand for these boat excursions (the reason to visit El Nido).

All in all, we had a wonderful day. We swam and snorkelled frequently, walked on remote sandy beaches and had a nice lunch served to us. And, the Karst vista as we travelled through Bacuit Bay was 'to die for'!

Back on land, we cleaned up and took a tricyle to the pub for treatment of our thirsty throats. We skipped a meal and headed to bed.

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DAY 3

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We'd had a wonderful day on the water (yesterday) and due to the tourism numbers were not inclined to seek a repeat. Judy had developed some mouth ulcers so we had to seek some HO3 treatment. We also had to secure a seat on a bus for the following day to take us further south to Puerto Princessa.

The backpacker option for the bus ride was in a mini-van. We weren't looking forward to 5+ hours cramped in a mini van. We learnt that a bus company had options that allowed more space. The 9am 'luxury' was a 5 hour express run in big wide seats. We'd prefer a later departure so reserved on the 11am run (normal seats and some stopping for passengers.

Another pitstop for our hop refill later in the day was followed by a meal of steak - apparently a rarity here.

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DAY 4

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The bus was a 50 seater, and as we progressively learnt as the bus departed, needed some spring replacement. For the most part, the speed limit is 50kph or less. The scenery was great and the stops for locals gave us a sense of 'immersion' into the daily lifestyles of locals.

We really enjoyed the travel over the range from the west side to east side of the island. The tropical jungle appeared unlogged and was beautifully green and luxuriant. Along the way we observed the impact of Christianity to the nation. At every village there appeared a contest between the 'brands' to outdo each other with the biggest, glariest, signs evoking commitment. In one town, a church had erected what looked like a series of large tombstones painted bright blue, each with a portion of the Lords Prayer emblazoned.

We arrived at Puerto Princesa (the island capital) at around 5pm and had to haggle to get a reasonably priced tricycle to our accommodation.

Once settled, we took a tricycle to a craft microbrewery to 'refresh'.

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DAY 5

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We'd 'allocated' one day taking a tour to some celebrated underground caves, and another exploring the city.

Overnight we'd researched further the 'caves' tour and discovered it to be a whole day excursion getting and returning from the caves and a 45 minute boat ride through the caves. After the day prior on the bus, we weren't ready to do it again for 45 minutes of 'scenery'.

Instead, after a late breakfast we took a tricycle to a nearby Butterfly farm. We learnt that some years ago when the 'Philippino' were populating the island, a doctor sought to engage with the indigenous tribespeople islanders. With some success, the doctor bought a (then) large parcel of land to relocate some indigenous folk (from the urbanisation of Puerto Princesa) and provide a place for others seeking to make contact with the developing city. To help make the enterprise profitable, the doctor and his son established the butterfly farm. As well, the site included a small zoo of local fauna. Of interest (especially) were the Bearcat; appropriately named as it looks like a cross between a bear and a cat. They also allocated a small portion to allow the indigenous fold to put on a show about their traditions.

Though the butterfly varieties were limited, the numbers weren't. Many times we'd have butterflies land on us. As for the 'indigenous' show, we felt uneasy about the event. Yes, we learnt aspects about their culture. But, it felt more like one of those old time circus events where paying people could leer at human 'oddities'.

We took a tricycle into the CBD, and...

Mmmm! We thought the inequality in Manila was bad, but Puerto Princesa is significantly worse.

We got the tricycle driver to take us to the Conception Cathedral (for no other reason than it was central). Opposite the cathedral is a small park that once housed an american troop base prior to the Japanese occupying the archepeligo. Some 150 US soldiers were taken prisoner and used by the Japanese to build an airstrip nearby. When the US returned, the Japanese herded the US soldiers into the air raid shelter then locked the doors and set the shelter alight. While many found a way to get out, most were shot and only 5 were able to break through - to swim to a nearby island for refuge. The US troops landed on the 28th February 1945. Being 75 years ago, we were astonished there was no form of celebration. But, then again, the derelict and very run down park suggested few have here an interest in history.

We wandered through the market area, then along the main street of the CBD before heading to a 'coastal walk' to look at Honda Bay. The market showed that times are very, very tough for locals, and the grotty nature of the main street indicated that the local administration isn't spending anything to maintain any semblance of order in the public facilities. The 'acclaimed' coastal walk was a broad expanse that had some time ago been 'reclaimed' and a broad concrete walled walkway installed. But, since, no money had been invested to repair damaged 'furniture' and it was now largely a hangout for the seedier activities of the city. Honda Bay may once haave been a beautiful expanse of water, but is now a litter encrusted foreshore with the water being access for boating and shipping.

Dispirited, we returned to our 'digs' to await 'beer oclock' and an 'escape' from reality!

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DAY 6

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Today was a lazy day. We had no desire to revisit the squalor that is Puerto Princesa.

Later in the day, we ventured out early for dinner. The place we selected was seafood restaurant at the edge of Honda Bay. We stayed only for 1 drink as it was not for us. But, on the way there and our return, the tricycle took the access road that was lined with the many large swanky houses with their barbed wire rimmed fences. By whatever means, some live exceedingly well in this squalid city.

We ventured to another restaurant and enjoyed a most beautiful (and romantic) dinner of local seafood in clean and character filled surroundings.

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DAY 7

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With a mid afternoon flight from Puerto Princesa to Manila, we let 'munyana' overtake us till our flight.

We were homeward bound with a night in Manila and 2 in Singapore.

Upon entering the airport, at the barriered entry we sought a set of scales to ensure our carry-on's were within weight. The airline rep picked up our carry-on - one in each hand - and declared they were within weight to proceed!

Like so many experiences in the Philippines, this was but another where we raised an eyebrow, chuckled, and went along for the ride.

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There are several more pics to see, just keep scrolling down.

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Photos

El Nido tricycle
This Reggae loving owner installed a Nipa (thatched) roof and hung an orchid at the side. Check out the yellow sign at the lower front.