Road Trip: Around Mount Banahaw

---

Roadtripping using the Mount Banahaw Loop can be tricky. I say this because looking at the map is soooo not the same as driving around it. Mount Banahaw rests between the provinces of Quezon and Laguna south of Manila. Homeward bound from our week's holiday in the Bicol Region, we toyed with the idea of taking an alternative route. This time, we wanted to take a detour based on the Mount Banahaw loop. From the map, it looks easy and uncomplicated enough. What we failed to realize is how those roads from Lucban, Quezon winds around the mountain to cross to the next town which is Majayjay, Laguna. 😞


Before the drive though, we first set down our priorities. First off is our lunch. I remember this place in Tayabas, Quezon the last time I passed it on my way to Lucban for the Pahiyas Festival last June 15. It was jampacked then with festival merrymakers, as expected, so our group arranged to have lunch somewhere else then. Kamayan sa Palaisdaan literally translates to "Eating with Your Hands in a Fishpond". As it turned out, they serve traditional Filipino dishes in huts standing on floating rafts. Makes for a truly rustic ambience, and I thought we shouldn't miss eating here this time around. And you don't really have to eat with your bare hands. One can ask for a spoon and fork .😊 It was good to find "Pako" Salad as a regular menu item here. Back in Manila, you will hardly get this "pako" or fiddler fern to make as a salad, along with local salted eggs and tomatoes. It combines well with grilled fish and roast items, which we didn't fail to order.

"Kamay ni Hesus"

Having filled ourselves good, we drove towards a pilgrimage site in the boundary between Tayabas and Lucban, Quezon. "Kamay ni Hesus" literally means "Hands of Jesus". This pilgrimage site sits right on the slopes of mystical Mount Banahaw where pilgrims consider the waters miraculous. Just like the pilgrimage site in Lourdes, France, there are baths in this place where pilgrims can bathe in miraculous waters. There is also a trail going up to the main grotto while one recites their prayers on their uphill climb. A Chapel was also constructed within the complex, right beside a souvenir shop, surrounded by many religious statues. We didn't venture to climb uphill towards the grotto, but managed to say our prayers in the chapel.


By the way, Mount Banahaw is said to be an extinct volcano , if there ever is such a thing. I remember that was what they said about Mount Pinatubo then. 😞 The mountain has become a sanctuary for various religious cults from Christian sects to animism to pagan worship. One shouldn't even be surprised to find amulet-seekers and UFO-watchers in this area by the mountain slopes. I don't know. It must be part of the mountain's mystique.

Majayjay Church

Now, Majayjay Church was definitely in my list of old churches to visit. There are many heritage sites around Quezon and Laguna, and these are mainly the old churches. As I always say, we have no temples nor pagodas, we have the churches! Unfortunately, it is heartbreaking to find many of these churches in a state of disrepair. Having just visited the Bicol Region, I somehow feel that the churches in Bicol are better preserved than the ones we found here in Laguna. The St. Gregory Church in Majayjay, Laguna is one such example. The Church has undergone rehabilitation and various reconstructions, but it is still claimed to be one of the oldest churches in the country. Allegedly built with forced labor, this 17th century church stands as witness to the town's checkered history. It has survived 2 world wars and this very church was even used as headquarters of American forces during the Second World War. We took our time here, just viewing the antique reliefs and religious statues. Outside were trees which look like they have endured wars and revolutions , just as the outside walls of the church bred creepers and moss which look better than any possible decor.

Nagcarlan Church and the Underground Cemetery

Slightly "younger", this tiered-wall church was designed in the baroque style and made of red bricks and stone. This 18th century church is actually named Saint Bartholomew the Apostle Church and built by Franciscan friars. As with many of the ancient churches in the country, the first "simpler" church was built on the same site using lighter materials around the 1580's, destroyed by fire or an earthquake, rebuilt, reconstructed to what it is today. This is true for many of our churches and it only tells us that the Spaniards clearly didn't lose time evangelizing and converting the Filipinos to their faith almost as soon as they discovered the Philippines in 1521 and ruled since 1571. In a sense, our country was ruled or governed "through" the Churches as locals looked to their "frailes" or Spanish friars as representations of their new found faith. Just my humble opinion. Don't quote me on this. Hmmmm. 😊


The famed Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery was nowhere beside or near the Nagcarlan Church. But it was not very far. However, it was already late Friday afternoon by the time we reached the heritage cemetery. There was no one around when we entered through the gates, through the chapel, and took the stairway that led to the underground crypt which served as a meeting place of our revolutionaries back in 1896. I was disappointed to find an extremely small space. God knows how many revolutionaries could fit in there. But it was kind of creepy down there. More so when we heard this clanging sound a floor above. Running up the stairs and through the chapel and out, we found the caretaker cum gatekeeper ready to lock up the place! Imagine that . 😞 So, my word of caution to everyone else planning to make a visit to this underground cemetery. Be sure you can find your way out, unless you are planning to spend a night or a weekend in this creepy place.

---

Photos

The Trip Around Mount Banahaw
Mount Banahaw Loop looks easy on the map -- the towns so close to each other. We didn't count on how winding the roads were. [:)]

Floating Rafts
This is in "Kamayan sa Palaisdaan", literally translates to "Eating with your hands in a Fishpond". The floating bamboo rafts hold the huts where food is served.

"Kamay ni Hesus" Pilgrimate Site
"Hands of Jesus" is what it means. Here, you will find a chapel, a pilgrim's trail up towards the huge statue of Jesus, a place for baths much like what you'd find in Lourdes, France, and various statues of saints all around.

Majayjay Church
Imagine how many have passed this Church door --- this Church was originally built in the 1580s soon after the Spaniards ruled and governed the country.

Nagcarlan Church
Slightly "younger" than the Majayjay Church, this 18th century church has a long aisle towards the antique altar. Built with bricks and stones in baroque style.

The Underground Cemetery
From outside, it looks well-kept and not a tad creepy. Well, find out as you step in.

No, it isn't creepy. Yet.
There were above-ground crypts lining the walls of the Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery.

This is the Chapel in the Underground Cemetery
Bodies were given their funeral rites here before being interred down below.

And It Gets Creepier.
Maybe it's just me. Or maybe because it was a rather gloomy, rainy day and the lighting here was bad. In a word, CREEPY.

It's A Lonely Place Down Here
I wonder if their family or descendants still visit them.

Inside, and Down Below
I certainly don't wish to be locked up here!

I dare you!
Stairway to the underground crypt in Nagcarlan, Laguna.

Inside Nagcarlan Church
This Church built by Franciscans has a long aisle. Venue for a soap series aired on television, the facade of this Church is familiar to many Filipinos glued to their tv sets early evenings.

Kamayan sa Palaisdaan
Eat Filipino food while on a floating raft.

Kamay ni Hesus
Located by the slopes of mystical Mount Banahaw, the waters in this area are said to be miraculous. Ironically, the same mystical mountain bred many different religious sects and cults.

Comments

[fateundermined]

Actually they did...
...use religion to govern the country early on. Well, until now, they are still trying to get in between some issues that would help improve the health status of our mothers and children. Anyway, back to the topic, a colleague from Quezon said that seeing the peak of Mt. Banahaw (without it being covered by clouds) is lucky.

[liliram]

Really?
Have not heard of that. There are many tales about seeing the peak of Mount Mayon, Mount Banahaw, etc. Just the same, it is always good to get that view sans the clouds!

[Ron]

back in the year 2000
back in the year 2000, i backpacked around this area. reading through your article brought me back to that year... i even thought that they will be serving me plate full of rusty nail when they told me it's PAKO

[liliram]

Pako!
Yup, it's the same word for the fiddler fern (which they make into a salad) and Nails! But the pronunciation is different. Ha ha ha