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Published: February 20th 2007
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Molo Church
a church that houses only Female Saints Somewhere along the Panay Islands, on a 60km/hr bus, I was anticipating our arrival at the heart of the Philippine Archipelago, Iloilo. I was hungry and the almost 6hr bus ride was taking it's toll on my growling stomach. We left Boracay around lunch and the road to Iloilo was a little rough. Aside from Boracay, the rest of Aklan and Capiz was purely provincial. The last stopover we made was when we reached the bus terminal in Aklan and Aisa and I felt that the chicken we ate has all been digested. We turned to Jeany to torture us of all the best places to chow in Iloilo After all, Iloilo is known not only for its historical and cultural aspects, they are known to be a culinary society or in short food addicts.
And I am one: a certified FOOD ADDICT... and yes, I'm proud of it!
Precisely the point of traveling all the way to the Western Visayas: feast the way Ilonggos do, immerse into the city’s culture, and visit their famous hundred old churches on a budget. With a few information here and there and two good Ilongga friends as guides these are some of
Molo Church
the church that has longest aisle in country the must see and must try places in Iloilo.
Churches
If you are a devout Catholic (which I'm not),
Visita Iglesia is definitely unavoidable. But since Iloilo is rich with old Spanish made churches and mansions, it is worth seeing. The churches are magnificent and the way they were made are amazing. Remember that old saying; if you visit a church for the first time, you may pray for a wish? Well, here is a chance to dole out some of those wishes.
Miagao Church - an 18th century old church made of corals and egg whites located in the town of Miagao, about an hour away from Iloilo City. How and where they got the corals is beyond me, the parishioners on the other hand donated the eggs. This golden yellow church served as a fortress in the 1800’s and is now part of UNESCO‘s World Heritage list.
Santa Barbara Church - located of course in the town of Santa Barbara. At the back of the church is the garden where you can see the Stations of the Cross. Inside the church, bats decided to take residency across its high ceilings and walls so if
Santa Barbara Church
famous for their garden and the unsual residents: bats living up on the church's ceiling you do decide to hear mass in this beautiful church, expect to come home with more than just the priest’s blessings, if you know what I mean.
Molo Church - houses only all-female saints and has the longest aisle in the country. Built in 1831, egg whites were used as a construction material and the discarded yolks created the well-known pasalubong house, Panaderia de Molo.
Jaro Cathedral - commonly called as Candelaria for the locals of Jaro. All the male saints are in this Baroque-Gothic church and its belfry peculiarly stands across the street. It is also where the statue of a Virgin Mary is who they say miraculously grows tall.
Food Trip
After the church hopping, it’s time to be one with the Ilonggo’s favorite pastime: food! My Ilonggo friend said that Ilonggos are simple people with simple needs. They do not spend much on material things because they would rather use the money to eat delectable food. And hell, the food is really cheap! Your Php500 will go a long way... and I mean long long way!
Ted’s Old Timer La Paz Batchoy - you simply cannot miss this little fast food because
Miagao Church
made of corals and egg whites it is everywhere. For less than a Php100, you can get a fill of the original La Paz batchoy, with puto at the side. Yum yum... try the one using
misua, it's absolutely delish. They have Ted's here in Manila but it tastes different. It's better to try it where the food hails from.
Café Tijuana - if you are a coffee addict, this is the place to be. Your Php250 will probably get you a mango crepe and three, yes three, tall mochacinnos. Their Tuna, Cheese, Tomato Crepe is a must try. The best part of it all is you can have them at the back of the café that overlooks the Iloilo River and enjoy the afternoon breeze while gazing at the mangroves across the river. Around 5pm, this café along Gen. Luna St. opens its bar and restaurant which are usually flocked by yuppies.
Breakthrough - is one of the most popular restaurants in the city located around the Villa Beach seaside district. Imagine this, three platters each of crabmeat, sisig, baked garlic scallops, steamed shrimps, sinigang na bangus and green mangoes for a group of 9 for less than Php2000. Need I say more?
Miagao Church
just imagine how and where they got the corals to build such a big church Afrique’s - serves the best pizza that I have ever tasted! The creaminess of the cheese in Afrique’s Special Pizza melts in your mouth even if it is cold. The original branch near Plaza Libertad is an old Spanish house and a perfect setting for a late lunch. Your Php500 will get you about a couple of pastas and a 14-inch pizza.
Nato and Helen - a simple, cost-friendly eatery near SM Iloilo. If you are a serious fan of oysters, this is your pit stop. For a whopping Php35 a bowl, you can eat all the fresh steamed talaba that your cholesterol level will handle. It turns the non-talaba eating people to converts. Take it from me.
Iloilo may not be the place where you see spectacular sites or have an exciting adventure, but it is a gateway of sorts. Not only is it your doorway to the Island of Guimaras or Boracay, it opens you to their culture, their pleasing and hospitable voices, the rich history that they are proud of and the cuisine that is part of what it means to be Ilonggo.
PS: Iloilo Infos...
1. You can reach
Univesity of the Philippines in the Visayas
they say that this building was used as a jail cell during WW2 and therefore haunted! Iloilo via plane but if you're up to it, pass by Boracay first and then take a Ceres
(pronounced as series) bus. Bus fare is about Php200 or less.
2. Boracay is in Aklan, if you have time, before heading straight on to Iloilo, pass by the Sampaguita Farm and the Panay Church where the oldest church bell is found.
3. You'll get dropped off at Jaro and from there would be taxis that can bring you to your hotel. Fortunately for us, we had a friend who live there so we crashed at her crib.
4. When visiting churches, start off with the farthest one which is Miagao. You may also visit the other site of UP in the Visayas in Miagao.
5. Santa Barbara is also where the oldest golf course is in the country. Since I'm not a golf fan, I didn't go there.
6. Iloilo City is still a province, churches close early. By around 6pm, visiting hours are over.
7. A Php3500 is more than enough for a 3 day stay... well that doesn't include accomodations.
8. Sunstes at Cafe Tijuana and the carpark of SM City Iloilo
UP Oblation
all girl oblation! are said to be one of the best. I wasn't able to see it 'coz I got lost in buying the
pasalubongs.
9. Best pasalubong houses are Biscocho Haus and Panaderia de Molo. But if you want to buy the famous piaya (flat bread) try BongBongs which you can find in the mall.
10. Buttescotch is one of my faves in Biscocho Haus. Mama's Kitchen is another
pasalubong house and it's a little far off the city proper but try any Starmart, they usually have those. Mango Chewies are the best flavor!
11. Planning to make a side trip in Boracay? Click for more info:
Boracay Baby! 12. You want to see a festival?
Hala Bira Iloilo: Dinagyang Festival
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