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Corregidor Island, Philippines
My trip to Corregidor Island was outstanding! 2 of my roommates and I got up at 0300 in order to catch the bus which left at 0500. To keep spirits high, Helen sang "It's time to make the donuts" (from the old Dunkin Donuts commercial) while we all got ready for the day. The tour group consisted of about 14 people and we all crammed into 2 vans. It was rather tight making the 2 hour ride to and from Manila a bit uncomfortable.
One in Manilla we all boarded a ferryboat to Corregidor Island and it lasted about 1 hour. After debarking the ferryboat, we hopped onto a trolley car and began the tour. On the way to our first stop our tour guide provided us with a bit of background in regards to the island.
BRIEF HISTORY OF CORREGIDOR (from http://corregidorisland.com/history.html)
Corregidor comes from the Spanish word “corregir,” meaning to correct. One story states that due to the Spanish system wherein all ships entering Manila Bay were required to stop and have their documents checked and corrected, the island was called "Isla del Corregidor" (Island of the Correction). Another version claims that the island was used a penitentiary or correctional institution by the Spanish and came to be called "El Corregidor."
In early and pre-hispanic times, it was likely populated by fishermen and no doubt provided a base for pirates who could easily launch an attack against any vessel entering Manila Bay. During the Spanish era this tadpole-shaped island was a signal station where bonfires were lit to alert Manila of a home-coming galleon. Later on, Spaniards built a lighthouse on the island.
The Spaniards set up a naval dockyard on the island in 1795. This was followed by a naval hospital and a signal station which was used primarily to warn Manila of approaching enemies. In 1836 a lighthouse was built and in 1853 a stronger light was installed. This was replaced in 1897 and remained in use until the outbreak of the Pacific War, during which it was heavily damaged and rebuilt to the same specifications. During the Spanish times, the small town of San Jose emerged to become the seat of government on the island. Later under the Americans, it evolved into a small community with its paved streets lined with the houses of the Philippine Scouts who
constituted the bulk of the garrison in Corregidor.
After the defeat of the Spanish forces by Admiral George Dewey in May of 1898, Spain ceded Cuba, Puerto Rico, and the Philippines to the Americans under the Treaty of Paris which was signed on December 10, 1898. In 1903 a former Spanish garrison building there was converted to a convalescent hospital. The island was designated as a U.S. Military Reservation in 1907 and the army post on Corregidor was named Fort Mills, after Brig. Gen. Samuel M. Mills, chief of artillery of the U.S. Army in 1905-1906. A regular army post was later established in 1908.
The following year army engineers of “H” company, 2nd Battalion of the U.S. Corps of Engineers began to build fortifications on the island to secure the seaward approach to Manila Bay. This was part of the planned "Harbor Defenses of Manila and Subic Bay" due to the strategic location of Corregidor. Concrete emplacements and bomb-proof shelters were constructed and trails and roads were laid out on the island. This engineer contingent left on March 15, 1912, after laying down the groundwork to make Corregidor a great military bastion. Thus began the transformation of
a small fishing village into a fortress and site of one of the most heroic battles in the history of war.
The big guns of Corregidor in 1941 were used in support of Filipino and American defenders of Bataan until the island itself was invaded by Japanese Forces. The restless pounding by Japanese guns including intermittent bombings reduced its defenses and compelled its surrender. On January 22, 1945, Corregidor was once again caught in the fury of war as the Americans retook the island after a bloody battle.
The first stop on the tour was the Middleside Barracks, a large military barracks made up of two three-story buildings which was referred to as the Middleside Barracks because it was constructed in the middleside sector of the island. Personnel of the 60th Coast Artillery Regiment and the 91st Philippine Scout Coast Artillery Regiment were billeted in this barracks. It was also briefly occupied by elements of the 4th Marine Regiment upon their arrival in Corregidor on December 1941. I was able to snap a few shots near the barracks but was unable to enter (note the "OFF LIMITS" sign in the picture).
The next few stops of
Kim at Battery Way
Enterance to Ordnance Storage Areathe tour took me to see a few of the famous gun batteries on the island.
GUN EMPLACEMENTS (from http://corregidorisland.com/guns.html)
The defense of Corregidor was the immediate responsibility of the Philippine Coast Artillery Command under Major General George F. Moore. To carry out this important mission, 23 batteries were set up on Corregidor and the adjoining islands at the outbreak of World War II in 1941. These consisted of 56 coastal guns and mortars which formed the main power of the island fortress. Corregidor had 13 anti-aircraft artillery batteries with 76 guns, twenty-eight of which were 3-inch and forty-eight 50-caliber. With all the gun emplacements set up in the island, Batteries Geary and Way proved to be the best and most effective for the defense of Corregidor during the siege by the Japanese forces. Battery Way was the first gun emplacement that I saw on the island. I was able to climb around on the guns and go into the ordnance storage facilities. An interesting bit of trivia that I learnt while on the tour was that there used to be a railroad network on the island which was used for the transportant of all the ordnance to
Kim at Battery Way
Trains used to transport ordnance the different batteries.
BATTERY WAY (from http://corregidorisland.com/guns.html)
Work on setting up of Battery Way started in 1904 and it was completed in 1914 at a cost of $112,969. It was named in honor of 2nd Lieutenant Henry N. Way of the 4th U.S. Artillery who died in service in the Philippines in 1900. Armed with four 12-inch mortars, it was capable of lobbing a 1000-lb deck piercing shell or 700 lb high explosive shell 14,610 yards in any direction. This gun emplacement was equipped with anti-personnel firepower. It was designed to penetrate the thin deck armor of warships and against any enemy entrenched on higher grounds in Bataan. Its firing elevation was from 45 degrees minimum to 70 degrees maximum. The length of its rifled bore is 10 ft. To fire each mortar, a standard crew consisting of 14 men were needed. Three of the serviceable mortars opened fire on April 28, 1942 and on May 2, 1942. After the 12 hours of continuous firing, the remaining mortar finally frose tight on May 6, 1942. It was the last of Corregidor's "concrete artillery" to cease firing before the surrender of Bataan. Battery Hearn was the neatest gun to
see on the island for several reason. First, it was the largest gun on the island. Also, when the Japanese captured the island from the American forces they took a photo of their troops standing around the gun to be used for propaganda. All the US military service members decided that we would take our own propaganda photo too. After climbing onto the gun we all yelled "BANZAI" for the photo.
BATTERY HEARN (from http://corregidorisland.com/guns.html)
The Americans started setting up Battery Hearn in 1918 and completed work on it in 1921 at a cost of $148,105. This 12-inch seacost west-ranged guns had a maximum range of 29,000 yards and was capable of firing in all directions. It was one of the last major additions to Corregidor's defense system which was intended to defend the island against enemy naval threat from the South China Sea. Battery Hearn had been in action firing towards Cavite from February 1942 and on April 8 and 9, 1942, towards Bataan. This gun emplacement was captured nearly intact by the Japanese when Corregidor fell and it was subsequently repaired by them and put back into action. It was, however, completely neutralized by American aerial bombardment in January and February of 1945.
Battery Grubbs and Battery Crockett were known as "disappearing guns" because they could disappear from sight after firing. We made a quick stop here and I was able to snap a few photos. Although these guns weren't as large as Battery Hearn, they were still pretty big.
BATTERY GRUBBS (from http://corregidorisland.com/guns.html)
Work on this $212,397 battery started from November 1907 and it saw completion early in 1909. It was named in honor of 1st Lieutenant Hayden Y. Grubbs who belonged to the 6th U.S. Infantry and who died during the insurrection in the islands in 1899. Battery Grubbs was armed with two 10-inch guns mounted on disappearing carriages and located well inland in the west central part of Corregidor. This gun emplacement was intended to fire to the northwest. At the start of the Second World War the battery was not originally manned. It was put into active service in early April 1942 but was quickly knocked out of service and subsequently abandoned.
BATTERY CROCKETT (from http://corregidorisland.com/guns.html)
This gun emplacement was initially constructed in 1905 and was completed in 1908 at a cost of $290,049. It was one of the six "disappearing" gun batteries that formed the interlocking field of fire which totally encircled the island. The battery was armed with two 12-inch seacost guns mounted on disappearing carriages behind a concrete parapet. Its range was 17,000 yards and was capable of 170-degree traverse with overlapping fields or a total of 220 degrees coverage for the battery. The design of this battery was very similar to Battery Cheney and Battery Wheeler. It was located centrally on the island and firing basically south across the major southern channel into Manila Bay.
After seeing the major batteries on Corregidor, we headed to the part of the island known as Topside.
TOPSIDE
Topside - is the highest geographic sector in the island where the terrain elevation above sea level ranges from about 400 feet and higher. Topside is said to be the nerve center of the island fortress. It is here where you will find the ruins of the following buildings: Mile-Long Barracks, Post Headquarters, Cine Corregidor, and a number of buildings previously used as quarters for bachelor officers as well as the senior officers of the garrison. All the major gun emplacements are also located around this high ground. The parade ground, a small golf course, the old Spanish flagpole, and the reconstructed Spanish lighthouse are similarly located at Topside. The more recently constructed buildings and structures that are now found at Topside include the following: The Pacific War Memorial Dome, sculpture of the Eternal Flame of Freedom, and a museum.
Because I wanted to spend time snapping pictures of Mile-Long Barracks and the Cine Corregidor, I quickly walked through the Pacific War Memorial, the Eternal Flame of Freedom, and the museum.
PACIFIC WAR MEMORIAL (from http://corregidorisland.com/sectors.html)
The memorial was erected to honor of the Filipino and American servicemen who participated in the Pacific War. Financed with an appropriation by the United States Congress, it was completed in 1968. The major memorial structure is a rotunda in which a circular altar falls directly under the dome's open center through which light falls on the altar during daylight hours. The altar symbolizes a wreath of victory with the following words inscribed on its rim: "Sleep, my sons, your duty done, for Freedom's light has come; sleep in the silent depths of the sea, or in your bed of hallowed sod, until you hear at dawn the low, clear reveille of God." The memorial also houses a museum which serves as the repository of relics and memorabilia related to the history of Corregidor.
ETERNAL FLAME OF FREEDOM
A large steel sculpture which symbolizes the Flame of Freedom burning eternally. It is located at the rear of the Pacific War Memorial dome on a raised platform which provides visitors a breathtaking panoramic view of Manila Bay, the Bataan Peninsula, and the coastline of Cavite. Designed by Aristides Demetrios, the sculpture commemorates the sacrifices, hopes and aspirations, and the heroic struggle by the United States and the Philippines to preserve freedom for future generations. The sculpture stands as a reminder that all men will fight as one if need to be to defend a nation's liberty.
While taking pictures of the Cine Corregidor, the trolley driver from my tour offered to take my picture. When he was finished I asked him whether or not it was ok to go snap some photos of the Mile-Long Barracks (there wasn't anyone near them at all). He looked a bit surprised at my question and told me that I could even go inside and climb the steps if I wanted. Wow! Awesome. I quickly
walked over to the nearest entrance and walked up the stairs to the third floor. The place was completely deserted which made taking pictures really easy as there wasn't anyone getting in my way. I had to watch my step while walking around as there were holes in the floor which I could have easily fallen in if I wasn't paying attention. Also, the concrete walls were cracking and falling apart so I made sure to stay away from anything that looked unstable. Fighting must have occurred in this area because there were pock marks all over the walls from what must have been some sort of cannon firing onto the building.
CINE CORREGIDOR
To the left at the entrance to the Pacific War Memorial are the ruins of what used to be Cine Corregidor, a movie theater. It was erected during the pre-war period to cater to the entertainment needs of the personnel of the garrison as well as their families. Nothing much is left of the building except portions of its concrete walls, a stairway leading up to its upper balcony, and the concrete floor of what used to be its stage. Its former lobby now houses two black vintage cars which were used by President Quezon and Gen. MacArthur.
MILE-LONG BARRACKS (from http://corregidorisland.com/sectors.html)
This is a three-story concrete building which was constructed to be hurricane-proof. It was used for the billeting of American officers and enlisted personnel detailed at the garrison. The entire length of the building measures about 1,520 feet that it became popularly known as the world's longest military barracks. Although it is just less than a third of a mile long, it was, however, commonly referred to as the Mile-Long Barracks. The headquarters of Gen. Douglas MacArthur was also located in this building.
I ate my lunch at the best hotel on the island (and the only hotel on the island), the Corregidor Hotel. The food was actually really good, although it might have tasted that way since I was extremely hungry. We had pancit, pork abodo, rice, fresh fruit and vegetables (all traditional Filipino food).
The afternoon was very relaxed. We spent a few minutes at Lorcha Dock, the place where General Douglas MacArthur departed the island and said "I shall return." Next we drove up to see the site of a former Japanese Cemetery. The American forces created
the cemetery when they recaptured the island from the Japanese in WWII. After 40 years of jungle growth, the exact location of the cemetery became unknown. In 1985 a photograph of an unknown American GI standing at the entrance to the cemetery was found in Oregon, and historians and archeologists were able to pinpoint the cemetery's location. With the permission of the Filipino Government, the remains were exhumed and returned to Japan in 1986. Today the site is a Japanese Memorial Garden.
We also went up to see the Spanish Lighthouse. From here I was able to have a view of Corregidor Island, Manila Bay (sight of the famous Battle of Manila Bay fought between the US and Spanish naval forces), the South China See, Bataan Peninsula, and Cavite.
SPANISH LIGHTHOUSE
At its current site, the original lighthouse was built by the Spaniards in 1836. Sixty-one years later a need for a much bigger lighthouse was conceived which led to the erection of another structure to replace the old one. However, the lighthouse was destroyed during World War II. The current lighthouse was constructed on the same site at an elevation of 628 feet above sea level. Being the highest point in the island, visitors who climb up the stairs of the lighthouse can have a breathtaking view.
The final stop on my tour was Malinta Tunnel. To get inside I had to pay a few dollars extra because there was a special
MALINTA TUNNEL (from http://corregidorisland.com/malinta.html)
To the east of Bottomside a hill rises abruptly to an elevation of 390 feet. Called "Malinta," it severs Bottomside from the tail end of the island. The North and South Shore roads curved from its slopes and girdled the hill and ran on down the curving tadpole tail. To facilitate passage and to create a bombproof shelter, the Americans drove a shaft from a rock quarry at Bottomside directly through the hill, creating the famous Malinta Tunnel. Construction of the tunnel took about 10 years. Work was initially started in 1922 and it was substantially completed in 1932. The 835 feet long East-West passage served as the main tunnel which is 24 feet wide and the height at the top of its arch is 18 feet. Branching from it are 13 laterals on its north side and another 11 laterals on the south side. Each lateral averaged 160 feet and 15 feet in length and width, respectively. A double-track electric trolley line used to run through the main tunnel which is reinforced with concrete walls, a concrete floor, and overhead arches. Blowers were installed to allow the circulation of fresh air.
The tunnel had been dug through solid rock and offered complete protection from artillery or air attack. Command communications and medical units were located there. Gen. MacArthur set up the headquarters of USAFFE inside the tunnel where men and women would live and work during the siege of Corregidor. The tunnel was originally designed to house huge quantities of ammunition, food and supplies, and an underground hospital with a 1,000-bed capacity. The location of the tunnel beneath Malinta Hill made it ideal as a bomb-proof headquarters for the embattled Filipino and Americans defenders of Corregidor during World War II. During the siege of Corregidor, a number of shops and storage areas were added.
Malinta Tunnel also served as the seat of Philippine Commonwealth Government under President Manuel L. Quezon. At the vicinity of the tunnel's west entrance in the afternoon of Dec 30, 1941, Manuel Quezon and Sergio Osmena were inaugurated into their second term
Cemtery Photo
This photo helped historians and archeologists relocate the Japanese Cemetery respectively as president and vice-president of the Philppine Commonwealth in simple ceremonies attended by members of the garrison.
The third lateral on the North side from the East entrance served as the USAFFE Headquarters of General Douglas MacArthur. In the South side, the first lateral from the East entrance was designated as headquarters of the Harbor Defense Command under Maj. Gen. George Moore. The fourth lateral on the same side connects to a group of 12 laterals which was used as a quartermaster supply storage. It has been said that some of its laterals were so secret that only those working there knew of its existence and that those who worked inside the tunnel during its construction were even blindfolded as they were escorted to their respective work areas.
The tunnel complex was described as damp and poorly ventilated and, except for the hospital, it was not designed to quarter humans. Although it was safe inside, morale of the personnel was lower than elsewhere on Corregidor. The entire length of the main tunnel was lined to a height of six feet with crates of all sizes and descriptions. Its occupants, numbering over four thousand, and sixty-eight women, including
nurses and seventeen civilians and army wives, complained of dust flying around, the flickering blue mercury vapor lights, and the dull boom of exploding bombs when the island was under siege. Little black flies swarmed everywhere, bedbugs prickled the flesh, and dust hung in a pall despite the continuous daily mopping. Although no shrapnel could get through, yet the tunnel dwellers felt suffocated, helpless and trapped being unable to fight back. There was no privacy and nowhere else to go to be away from other people.
Overall the trip to Corregidor Island was awesome. It'd recommend the trip to any age group as it's got something for everyone. The trolley makes it easy to travel for young and old. If given the opportunity to come back I am going to try and stay overnight at the hotel and spend two days here so I can explore more of the island (there is a ton more to see and do).
To see more photos I took, check out http://picasaweb.google.com/kdupak/28April2009CorregidorIsland
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