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Published: September 5th 2011
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In seeking the perfect beach escape, I had already been to Boracay and it topped the list, subjugating Railay (or Phra Nang as I remember this idyllic spot before the developers following backpackers took over) to 2nd, even 3rd behind Phi Phi. So when I saw the photos and write ups on Bantayan, I just had to go there, thinking it might be the next one.
Boracay bounces with light - the turquoise blue water sparkles in the morning sun; the sand is white and so so smooth and soft. There are bars, shops, restaurants, all ranges of accommodation and people sauntering around on a sun and sex filled beach holiday. Its pretty perfect - cars don't spoil the beach scene and you can grab a bicycle and peddle off away from the booze, the deck chairs and the bikinis. But when you have already been there, seeking out a new horizon always teases the mind - so it was to Bantayan Island I decided to head off to - besides I wanted to see more of the Philippines.
The morning call began about 4am - stumbling out
of bed, quick coffee and toast, shower and off to the airport in Kuching for 6am flight to Kota Kinabalu. By the time we landed in KK, I was almost awake - just and the sun was up. Now began a 4/5 hour wait till next flight - to Clark in the Phils. There isn't much to do at the budget terminal in KK, but thankfully, the town beach is only a short walk from the airport and although not that much of a beach as beaches go - there was a bar and a sea breeze, so the waiting time was terminable.
Boarding time for flight to Clark - the American air base during Vietnam war - massive and with Pinutubo as a backdrop, with its top blown off - impressive. It was a quickish flight for after all Malaysian Sabah is almost the Phils anyway. Now the choice on arrival was either walk to main gate and catch keepney to Angeles, trying to steer clear of the girlie bars on Fields Avenue and catch a Rabbit bus into town or take one of the waiting buses at airport to Manila - a more expensive but definitely more
convenient option. The rain decided for us - waiting bus/van it was and in nop time we were trundling down NLEX towards Sin City.
One night in Manila is a bit like one night in Bangkok - enough to make a grown man weak. But when you are with your wife, the possibilities are downplayed ha. Still Manila is a good place to hang out for an evening. Ermita and Mabini have sure quietened down but maybe, just maybe, the scene is rejuvenating and in time, come back to the good old days, albeit a bit more gentrified. Down near Remedios Circle though it is reasonably hip with lots of street bars and cafes, music clubs and a good passing parade. An enjoyable evening in Manila town ensured, with of course the de rigeur visit to LA Cafe - now renamed Manila Bay Cafe (but clientele hasn't changed) - all the freelance girls from far and wide, prettier at night than those in the morning and the players remain - aging beer bellied Westerners and Koreans on the make, outnumbered probably 10 to 1
Next morning, for the first time in my traveling life, I broke my rule
and didn't use surface transport to my next destination within the country. Time was limited so to get to Bantayan and back in a week necessitated taking to the air and flying down to Cebu. We live in Sibu, Sarawak so it was with some interest that we wanted to check out Cebu, Philippines. Sibu, Sarawak is a rough and industrious Chinese river port; Cebu, Philippines is the 2nd city of the country and we imagined it to be an energetic and bustling tourist destination. Instead we entered a derelict rundown city. Downtown, or the old port, commercial and historic area is rougher than hometown - positively decaying - even Pontianak in Kalimantan scrubs up better and I always thought it to be bottom of my city list. There is an Uptown, two actually - an older version which is basically just a rough unkempt roundabout with a Robinson's and the other a shopping mall - all sanitized and sterilized.
An overnight stay and had to get out - at least the hotel had some charm. Casa Rosario is in Lonely Planet and provides large clean rooms with a bit of ambiant flair, well priced and staff are attentive.
Its close to the rough roundabout but there are a sprinkling of bars and restaurants nearby. Getting away in the morning was easy enough - taxi to North bus station and Ceres liner to Hagnaya port for boat to Bantayan. Its a 3 hour bus trip up the coast - and once you clear Cebu traffic and spin along at a fair clip, the open windows make lack of aircon not that much of an inconvenience. From Hagnaya to Santa Fe on Bantayan is only 1 hour so we arrived on the island midafternoon and ready to suss out a decent bungalow to prop for a few days.
Bantayan - what to say. imagine Ko Samui 30 years ago but without the beauty of the then unspoilt Chaweng beach. The beach at Bantayan is ok - lots of sand - not so soft though, still pretty hard coral. The water is certainly aquamarine, but there is no swell and its quite shallow for a fair way out. Maybe I'm being picky ha, but there are better beaches. However, one thing about Santa Fe beach is the wide horizon and sky. It seems endless and the mountain backbone of Cebu
island looms large in the distance. The main drag in Santa Fe has a number of western style bars and cafes which in peak season I'm sure get a good clientele but they were a bit tame when we were there. Still, the beer is cheap, lot of fish to chose from and you can rent a motorbike. We did find a bungalow on the beach and very close to town so all in all - couldn't really complain.
Never got to fully explore the island but did ride on small country lanes along the coast, north and west of town - and of course took the main road into Bantayan town. Lots of good old Spanish style architecture (the church in town) plus wooden shophouses. Bantayan sure has its following, it grows on you after a few days and when you leave, you think back and realize it was a pretty neat place.
But it sure ain't Boracay
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