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Published: April 9th 2013
So with the quick introduction to Philippines complete after three days in the sweltering capital, it was time to head north towards the Cordillera Mountains, from where I intend to make my assault on the famed Ifugao rice terraces of Banaue, yet another Unesco World Heritage site. But before that, there was the small matter of a 7h bus ride from Manila to Baguio, the de facto capital of North Luzon, inclusive of the 1.5h or stuck in the crazy traffic of the capital, just trying to get on the interstate expressway!
Arriving in Baguio at almost 11 p.m. at night, dark and disoriented, I somehow managed to stumble my way around the winding roads of the former Spanish/ American hill station, before locating several "transient houses" (essentially home-stays). Of course I had the assistance of an enthusiastic local roaming "agent" (i.e. tout) looking for a commission, and it took us several knocks on several transient houses before we found one that had a vacancy. And despite the late hour, the best rate I could get was still PHP600 (about USD15) for an extremely cramped and basic single, with a tiny shared "comfort room" (i.e. bathroom in the Philippines), in
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I would soon learn that this is de rigeur in this thriving democracy...an unnamed place. It was run by a middle-aged Filipino woman, and her elderly, pot-bellied Caucasian (of course) husband, who claimed to be European/ Australian/ Filipino, and who related to me an incoherent story about his 90-year old Turkish/ Azerbaijani farmer-father, in an indecipherable accent.
Pricey "budget" lodging seems to be the trend so far during my stay in the Philippines, as I had to pay a similar price also in the capital, despite checking out several places. At these prices, I reminisce wistfully about the full facilities (AC, wifi, cable TV, private hot shower, double bed) rooms I'd previously stayed at in places like Hanoi, Danang and Phnom Penh...
I was told that this was the beginning of "summer" for Filipinos, even though it's only April, and that there were many domestic tourists heading north escaping the heat of the capital, thus bumping up prices. I can attest to the welcome relief of the agreeable climate here in Baguio, and also the more comforting sight of fewer (though far from zero) guns around. With several universities located here, the population seems corresponding young, with an overall collegiate atmosphere to the city.
I spent just one full
day walking around town, and will be continuing my journey northwards. From here the interstate expressway forks northeast and northwest. I will be taking the former route first, towards the Ifugao rice terraces.
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