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Published: November 12th 2008
NORTH TO THE CORDILLERA OCT 12 to 19, 2008
Although it was hard for Al to leave the warm water and snorkelling, we did head north to the Cordillera and the Luzon area of The Philippines. What magnificent beauty!
We flew from Puerto Princesa to Manila on Oct. 12th and immediately took a taxi to the bus depot to check out buses to Baguio and there was one leaving in a half hour so off we went, heading north. It was a winding 7 hour trip through the mountains; felt a bit like our BC mountains. The lights of Baguio appeared about 8 pm and off we went to our hotel. We chose The Burnham Hotel from the Lonely Planet, as it was listed as having lots of character. It did have character but also musty mould smells. Note to selves - forget about going for character!
At our beautiful breakfast the next morning at the Cafe by the Ruins, we met Jim Ward and Shanti Isla-Ward, sitting at the next table. They own the very great little Bliss Café where we dined that night and also knew Sherry the Peace Corps volunteer who had recommended Apo Island
and then Sagada to us! It is a small world! Jim and Shanti were great at guiding our touring plans.
One of the challenges of traveling is that you cannot get everywhere and no matter where you go you meet other travellers who say - "but we went there and it was fabulous!" And we say: "but we went here instead and it was fabulous!"…we each find our different experiences as we decide our different paths. And so, we were trying to figure out if we could go to both Banaue and the rice terraces there “the eighth wonder of the world” and to Sagada. Realized we could not do both as would have been on the bus for too many days. So we opted for Sagada (thank you Sherry!) and the glorious rice terraces there. And Jim and Shanti recommended The Rock Inn as the perfect place to stay just outside Sagada (about a 40 minute walk to town) - and it was indeed perfect.
Baguio - great market, fascinating streets, a beautiful Buddhist Temple, an incredible 2 hours with Mr. Ike Picpican the curator of the Museum of Arts and Culture on the campus of St.
Louis University and the foremost authority on the history and culture of the Cordillera people. He gave us a personal guided tour. Such a privilege for us and incredible learning about the indigenous peoples of this area.
And then the hair-raising bus ride to Sagada - along the scenic Halsema Highway and stopping at the highest point in the Philippines at 2255 m. -hairpin turns, breathtaking scenery, rice and veggie terraces everywhere following the ridge top of the Cordillera Range.
Sagada - a small village of a proud people, the Igorot. Our guide Orin took us hiking to the hanging coffins, to the water falls, to the incredible views of the rice terraces. Sagada is a walking community - no taxis, only occasional motorbikes; we walk to and from The Rock Inn or get a drive from the staff. Sagada’s curfew is 9 pm to 4 a.m, when they roll up the streets and everyone goes to bed. The weavings everywhere are beautiful.
And then we are back on the bus to Baguio along the Halsema Highway again, clicking photos at almost every breathtaking turn - and to the new and lovely Bloomfield Hotel for a night
-and a final dinner at Bliss Café and good byes to Jim and Shanti.
Back on the Saturday bus to Manila and a stay at Bianca’s Garden Hotel. Pool in the back yard. An oasis in the hustle of Manila. Interesting guests to meet too.
And then it is good bye to The Philippines, a much misunderstood and under-rated country and one we are so glad we saw, and flying from Manila to Auckland, NZ, on Oct. 19th. Good bye to the tropics- hello to a chilly Auckland spring!
Hugs from Whangarei, New Zealand!
Al and Robin
November 13, 2008
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Jim fm BLISS
non-member comment
feelings mutual
Was our pleasure being part of your Baguio adventure. Obama won...I am STILL on cloud nine !