Slowly, Slowly (What's Urdu for That?)... Jhola, Pakistan

---

Sleeping at:Jula/Jhola

Sleeping Altitude: 3200m

Trekking Distance: 22.8km, Ascent 530m, Descent 410m

Day 10

Average sleep, up before 6 for breakfast- the dining tent is set up with a very hearty amount of cereal, chappati, jam, nutella, eggs, tea and coffee. The aim is to be on the trail by 07:30. It's pleasantly cool and we're raring to go. We have already got our duffel bags that the porters will carry packed up and left outside the tent. I think my duffel weighs in at under 10kg. Our day packs are ready, everyone is carrying about 3L of water as it's going to be hot. I've snaffled one of the empty coke bottles to fill in addition to my other bottles (cool drink bottles are great because they weigh nothing). Owen (Irish guy) is keen to walk out with us today- he says he's feeling a lot better. Lynton has gotten sick in the night though with D and V's but as there are no Snowland groups behind us he's coming anyway (fingers crossed). We walk out through the village in a straggly line of hikers and a large line of porters - we have a massive entourage it seems as well as the goat. The village trail opens up to a large fertile valley, it's a beautiful pop of green in an otherwise brown landscape.

Our group defines itself quickly, by the first hour we have strung out a long way as we climb up gradually to a rocky dirt trail overlooking the river. The temp amps up as we push on and we encounter the large French and Spanish groups. At the hour mark we reach the Visitors Registration office where everyone has to fill in their form and trekking permit numbers. Lynton has pretty much died in a shady corner, we encourage him to drink hydration salts. There are about 60 trekkers jostling for position, 45 of them aren't big on deodorant. It's nice to have a shady spot for 1/2 an hour.

Continue walking for a couple of more hours in the heat. I notice a snaking length of electrical cable along the entire length of the trail. Amazing number of terrains, up and down until we hit a really shaded canyon area, Lynton dies a bit more, I give him my extra water (he has absolutely no recollection of this when we are talking about it later in the trek). Walk with Owen for a while who is still throwing up. Use half a litre of hand gel! It's now about 36 C - so glad for my travel umbrella and long sleeves. I go beetroot red at the slightest exertion in the heat- I'm glad that I have pre-warned the group. Despite the hard slog it is very exhilarating to see the first signs of the Biafo Glacier (flows 50km from Hispar La Pass to the Braldu River- Danny and Lynton are doing the Hispar La Snowman Trek as soon as this one finishes- IF Lynton survives!).

By 12:30 I am dying- I'm starving and thirsty and boiling (note to self- take a snack tomorrow). Suddenly a mirage - the kitchen porters appear, a picnic lunch is set up on plastic woven mats- it's not a mirage thankfully. We all get stuck into 2 min noodles and soup, chappatis, cow triangle cheese, jam, tinned sardines (yuuuuuuck), dried fruit and nuts, sweet biscuits and tea/coffee. It's amazing! Food always tastes incredible after working for it. Really tired but this hour break is a mini reviver. We all head off at the same time, there is a steepish climb and some stunning rocky overhangs to negotiate. Have a rest stop in the shade, Owen is still throwing up. As I give him some more Ondansetron, Gen comes running ahead - Lynton is now slung over a horse and is virtually unconscious. What can I do? Give him some Ondansetron (it's a dissolvable wafer) and wait 20 mins before getting him to drink a bit. EEK.

It takes us a total of 3 hours from our lunch stop (some of us at any rate, a clear pack order has emerged- Chisato, Fernando, Anthony and Gen are at least an hour ahead) to reach the swing bridge that will get us across the the river to the campsite. The campsite is tantalisingly close until you realise you have to walk a km past it to the bridge and then that additional km again. Danny has slowed down a bit- he is carrying his own fully loaded pack and it's taking its toll in the heat. We take our time at the bridge- we let the Spanish cross in order to have some time to take photos. Mary takes on the role as my personal photographer (as she usually does when we travel). Ian comes in behind us, he has a personal porter with him as he has brought a lot of his camera gear. The lighting is perfect. The personal porter gets some lessons in photography.

Arriving at camp is wonderful- it feels like it has been a massive day, it has been a massive day! Miraculously our tents are up and bags delivered, all of the porters have arrived well ahead of us. There is a river behind us which provides ice cold water to sluice off in. Unfortunately there are patches of human excrement and toilet roll right by the water line- so disgusting. Try to find a more uncontaminated spot - Fernando and Chisato beat me to it, avert eyes. Try for another spot- find one, and perch on 1 leg then the other whilst trying to remain modest as lots of porter groups are hanging out there too. Modesty and an icy river are difficult to juggle BUT it pays off, my face is paler beetroot and the long sleeve shirt has been relegated in favour of a clean tshirt.

Dinner is quick, Lynton is still alive but asleep. Owen makes an appearance but eats little. We're all generally happy, the food is plentiful. Dying to go to bed. What a great day.

---

Photos

Leaving Askole Campsite
In the shadows before the sun starts to beat down

The Valley
Very fertile valleys and villages as we leave