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Published: April 27th 2010
Local Quetta Mechanic
The local mechanic found that we had a number of loose nuts which needed attention to before proceeding on our next journey.Thursday 22 April
We left the Bloom Star hotel, Quetta at 0745 hours on this day, with another police escort, to take us towards Sukkar. The day’s driving has been one of the most memorable for several reasons. Firstly, we were taken through the famous Bollan Pass, where nomads and camel caravans still pass to reach Quetta and onwards into Afghanistan. The scenery was stunning and while running nearly parallel with our journey through some very twisty road, the railroad route passed over many viaducts and through tunnels that the British had built in the 1800s to provide a secure passage for British troops to conduct potential operations against any Russian incursion thus threatening the British Empire’s territory of India. The pass and road also connects the districts of Balochistan and Sindh, where we are as I write this piece. Interestingly, each tunnel was given a name by the British engineers who built the railway through the pass and those tunnels and viaducts are still there to be seen today. Unfortunately, as we were being escorted because of the security threat we were unable to stop to take it all in. Once through the 87 km pass we were released on
John and Mechanic
A true record of his trip. our own to make our way to Sukkar. But after 100 miles we were reconnected with a series of escorts that took us all the way into Sukkar. What was so memorable about this journey was the attitude of the police escorting car in front of us and what we had to do to keep up. It seemed to be suicide stuff all the way, passing these enormous colourful transport trucks that stick in the middle of the road. The small towns we passed through were teaming with people, donkeys, goats, and nearer Sukkar, water buffalo, both on the road and keeping cool in large areas of water or rivers. The loads that are carried by both trucks and donkey carts has to be seen to be believed as does the way everyone drives over here. While we took it in turns to drive, an hour and half each which is enough to ensure our driving remains alert, we were constantly overtaken either side of the car and often in unison by cars or pick up trucks. Express buses just sound their high pitched melodious horns and plough through the traffic and people - woe betide those in the way!
The delivery of tyres
This little Tuk Tuk came and took away the tyres to be done and brought them back within the hour - what service. It is hard to actually picture what we are seeing now as we travel north east towards Lahore. We will spend some time in Lahore with my wife’s good friend, a consultant doctor in the city and responsible for providing our ticket (letter of invitation) into Pakistan in the first place otherwise we would not be where we are geographically nor would it have been unlikely that we could have started out on this epic journey.
One of the outstanding features so far seen on this trip in Pakistan is the number of children working in the fields, or shepherding sheep or goats, which means they must be living with their flock by day and night. The children cannot be more than seven years of age in some cases, helping their older brother, probably no more than ten or twelve, look after their livelihood. Local colourful buses are packed with people and their chattels and when no room in side, they sit on top of the bus, on sacks of supplies - grain, rice, seed - anything - and hold on for dear life as the bus drivers career down the difficult two way roads here. Life is very, very
Police escort in front and road building
We left Quetta and were escorted over the Bollum Pass, where the British engineers during the 19th Century had built some impressive tunnels and bridges to enable a railway to link Quetta and Sukkar, our next destination. hard for people here and so neither John nor myself will be too concerned about the state of our own roads on our return, or the potholes.
Sukkar is the home to a 1400 metre sluice system known as the Sukkar barrage and is responsible for controlling the flooding of the river Indus, ultimately irrigating some three million hectares of land for the people of Sindh, through several irrigation channels. Life in the city seems hectic again and you need eyes like Cyclops to cross the roads (I got caught out by nearly being knocked over by a Tuk Tuk, a three wheeled taxi, coming up the wrong way! As I crossed the road from the car to the hotel).
Friday 23 April
Today we left for Multan, another city on the way to Lahore. Our escorts met us on time and we left at around 8.15 am to get to our next destination. Multan is the principle city in the lower Punjab and the centre of Pakistan’s main cotton producing area. Unfortunately we saw little evidence of cotton growing but I suspect that we will see more of this product as we proceed through India. Photos will tell
Bridge building
There were something like 22 bridges like this built by the British - a mighty achievement in those days. you the story for this day and I will wait until we reach Lahore tomorrow before putting in a fuller update.
Tuesday 27 April
Contrasts, contrasts, contrasts - this is Pakistan as we have seen it so far. Multan was very much a stop over for the night before getting on the road to Lahore. Our police escort duly turned up early and we were off. The journey was shorter than we had previously done so having spoken to our hostess the night before, our directions were to head for the Jinnah Hospital in Lahore where we would be met and escorted to her home. Our next few days were to be spent with one of my wife’s very dear friends, a consultant doctor who specialises in breast cancer here in Lahore. After waiting outside the emergency wing of the hospital we were duly met by one of Huma’s brothers. This is where it became interesting. Were we going to be able to shake the police off and relax for a few days or were we in for a police guard during our stay?
Fortunately, when we arrived at the front gate of Huma’s home, the police were politely informed
Train
Poor photo but it was the first train we had seen in Pakistan! that from that moment on, the family would be responsible for our safety. Amir, who is a Chief Officer in the merchant navy, made the point that he was in the navy and quite capable with his family to look after our safety. We learnt that the police had actually been ordered to escort us across Pakistan by higher authority. While this arrangement was very satisfactory for us because it meant that we reached our destinations easily as the road directions here in Pakistan for a foreigner are dire, it did create some awkwardness at the front gate. But hearing that Amir was in the “Navy” was enough for the police to be reassured and off they went. Since that Saturday afternoon we have had a wonderful time.
Huma lives with her son in one house in the family compound, while another sister and two brothers all live in their separate homes, with their own gardens and entrances to the main street, while still having a central garden for them to all meet up in the evenings if they so wish. Their grounds are beautiful and John and I were astounded to find ourselves being given the ‘spare’ house to
This little man
He has been used quite a lot when John has been driving! He has certainly raised some eyebrows. Seriously folks, our driving skills really don't need the little man - a great comfort though.
d live in with our own bedrooms ensuite, kitchen and lounge - all air conditioned.
From the rather dingy room we were staying in a few nights ago in Sukkar to this is a passage into heaven! So much so that it will be hard for us to gather our things, pack up and leave for the next phase of this monumental trip of ours.
Lahore seems a safe city although everywhere you go there are police road blocks and sentries to intersections of the roads within the city. The restaurants we have been taken to are on a par with any in any major international city. John went off yesterday morning with the car to have the springs upgraded once again and now we have a sixth spring inserted on either side of the car - this time from a Toyota Corolla car (the last one was from a Fiat 500 in Italy). The car really now does sit up at the rear but with fuel and full kit onboard it will give us the extra height we need for the journey ahead.
I was taken on a tour of the old fort here in Lahore, where years ago under
Our hotel in Sukkar
A very basic room but it provided a place to sleep for the night before moving on early in the morning. Mughal emperors the elephants used to be the main pack animals for the inhabitants of the fort and its palace. Seeing original steps that were made for elephants to climb and descend made the visit for me. I went with Amir and we were shown the queen’s accommodation and where the eunuchs used to live - no man was allowed near the queen in her own area.
After visiting the fort and some parts of the old city, Amir took me to Freddie’s for lunch and the only reason I mention this is because I left my camera there. I was teased that to leave something behind probably meant that it was the last I would see it, but this was not so; the restaurant had found the camera and were delighted to return it to me. Phew. Trust in human honesty was restored.
I should mention the weather here - we have arrived when the weather is doing peculiar things - reaching 40 degrees centigrade now rather than in June or July. So we are having to get used to this very warm weather that certainly takes it out of you. But we have received good advice for our
Tractors and refugees
We passed many tractors pulling trailers that were crammed full of people and their belongings, what little they had. These were displaced people from Afghanistan being moved around. onward journey in respect of what we should drink and how we should stay cool during our travelling time to prevent dehydration and thus heat exhaustion which could be easily achieved without taking precautions.
We leave this oasis tomorrow morning at 10 o’ clock and head for another border, India, which we should reach within the hour. But we know from experience now that entering another country needs patience and resignation! So enjoy the photos to this blog and the next one will be definitely from India.
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Heather
non-member comment
Wow, I really loved reading your Pakistan post! I found it so fascinating and informative. Not many people are posting from in such detail from there. My travel blog is looking for photos, stories, etc, to share, and yours are all great! If you have the time, check it out at dirty-hippies.blogspot.com, or email me at dirtyhippiesblog@gmail.com. Continued fun on your travels! Heather :)