Hameed, our driver in waiting, took us in his pride and joy the jeep along bumpy road towards beautiful Babusar pass to Naran passing Lulusar lake. Our hotel for the night was Afaq, comfortable. The next day we had a morning sojourn to the scenic lake Saiful Muluk and then a long drive along the Naran and Karakoram Highway (KKH) towards Islamabad, past gaudily decorated trucks and vans grossly overloaded with goods and passengers. Vehicles jostled for position along the way, spewing out diesel fumes in all directions. Some of the smaller pick-up trucks held up to 10 passengers in the rear with as many again on a rickety roof rack; I lost count of the passengers in the similarly overloaded trucks and buses. Another thing they all seemed to have in common is that the
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