Climbing to the top of (my) world, and celebrating it in a village bar - Continuing my Langtang trek


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October 31st 2005
Published: November 4th 2005
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(Written in a place called "Lama hotel", although it's not one hotel, and I in fact stayed in Tibet hotel!)

In the 3rd day of walking we reached Kyanjin Gompa, the last village in the valley. We are totally surrounded by mountains (except where we came from). By now I've been walking with Peter and Rajku all the time, they were waiting for me whenever I fell behind, walking slowly up and up. Well, this was so far an easy day, we only climbed about 400m to Kyanjin Gompa. We settled in a guest house there and Rajku pointed to a "small hill" next to us. "We climb there after lunch". Ah? He's not my guide, I don't have to listen to him! Unfortunately it appears to be the same viewpoint that the book recommended. Shit, it was in my plan anyway. I look again. Kyanjin Ri is only 500m above us, but we are already over 3870m which means less oxygen, and why does it have to be so steep? I suggested they took my camera and made pictures for me... Rajku didn't agree... Of course I knew I was going to do it. It only took 1.5 hours, and the views became more and more amazing as we walked up. And when I got to the top, 4400m above sea level, I realized that this was the highest ground I have ever been on. It's the top of my world!
From the top I could see the highest peak in the area, Langtang Lirung, as if it's so near. It's only about 3000m higher than me. Two glaciers are just in front of us, Langtang and Lirung (isn't that easy when the names repeat themselves?). There's snow everywhere. A wrong move and you can ski "off piste" all the way down (but where are my skies?)
It was simply fantastic.

In the evening I had another experience, probably the most unique night I had in a long time. Ram (my porter) and Rajku (my volunteering guide) took me to the local village pub. It’s like nothing you can imagine. The "bartender" is a divorcee, she rents this small house, I think only one room, of course she also lives there, and it's a pub. She sells beer, but the local favorites is Langtang coffee: take the local home brew Raksi wine, cook with butter and sugar, add
Isn't that just beautiful?Isn't that just beautiful?Isn't that just beautiful?

Things like that make the effort so worthwhile!
coffee. I got a version without coffee. It wasn't bad. Most of the time I was the only western there (the Swiss got sick and missed the fun). I heard them singing some beautiful Tibetan songs - they told me they were love songs. One woman had a beautiful voice that enchanted me. Then I was made to join a Tibetan dance. There was no music, they simply sang. In fact, there's no electricity. We sat on tiny benches around the fire where the drinks were cooked, and the light came from that fire and one candle. When they talked and I didn't understand anything, I couldn't help thinking about their happiness in this extremely simple, actually poor place. Unfortunately I am already too spoiled by the western life, I would never be able to enjoy the simplicity in that extreme form. Are they happier?



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Upper Langtang valleyUpper Langtang valley
Upper Langtang valley

Snow covered and surrounded by the snowy mountains
And the boys are being as usual: boys :-)And the boys are being as usual: boys :-)
And the boys are being as usual: boys :-)

Pit from Swizerland and Rajkumar from Nepal, my sweet travelmates...


4th November 2005

Do they actually enjoy the simplicity of beeing poor. or is it only a dream of us the "spoiled westerners"

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