The Trek!!!

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Hello everyone!

As you may have gathered, we made it round the Annapurna Circuit! (Although at times it seemed we wouldn't!!) Day 1 began with us getting up at 5.15am (a sign of things to come!) to get to the bus park for our bus to Besisahar. From there we took another bus (a bone-rattler!) to Bhulbhule, where we started walking. Ironically, the day we left Pokhara was the only day it was clear enough for us to see the Himalayas, the view for which Pokhara is famous! We hired a guide, called Tulsi, and a porter, Samir, to carry our bag!! Tulsi was really really funny! Samir was 19 but looked about 14 as he was so small, and how he managed to carry our bag for 18 days without complaining we'll never know!

The trek began by walking up the Marsyangdi River Valley for the first 7 days, which was mostly uphill but not too bad. By day 4 we were both feeling the altitude effect on our breathing (and the cold!!) but aside from the odd really long steep bit, it wasn't too bad. The views were fantastic, mostly of the smaller mountains of the Annapurna Range, but we also saw Manaslu (8163m), the 8th highest mountain in the world! The shower on the first night was freezing, but we were pleasantly surprised when Tulsi told us that most of the lodges we'd be staying in had solar water heaters - luxury!! However, the hot water had frequently run out by the time we showered and we had to make do with washing up bowls full of hot water!!

On day 5 we veered off the main trail to Upper Pisang, which was an extra climb but well worth it as the views of Annapurna IV (7525m) were fantastic, and the walk was through pine trees which smelt lovely and made us feel like we were in the Alps. The facilities on this part of the trail weren't so good though - Phil had to walk to a tap in the village just to wash her face!! The thing that was keeping us both going was reaching Manang on day 7. Manang had everything that you could want for a trek- we stocked up on chocolate bars, we could finally do some washing and they had hot showers, and even nice food! (There was an amazing bakery here which sold giant cinnamon rolls!). The place even had book shops, where Phil had to stock up as she'd finished the only book she'd brought. (There's not a lot to do in the evenings!). We stayed here for 2 nights for acclimatisation because of the altitude (3540m!). Whilst we were at Manang we walked up to the Gangapurna glacier, which had amazing views over Manang and the valley and also the glacial lake. It was incredibly blue!

On day 9 we reached Yak Kharka (4050m), a little later on in the day it started to snow!! Tulsi assured us that by having snow that day it would be very clear for us walking tomorrow- little did we know.........! We woke up the next morning to a world of white! There was no difference between the snow and the sky, and it was really disorientating. We still set off, a little later than usual as Tulsi wanted to see if other people had made it through the snow (!). The way was very difficult and slippy, and Phil had to slide down on her bum at one point!! However we eventually made it to Thorang Phedi (4450m), the village at the foot of the Thorung La pass. It was FREEZING!!!! there was still snow absolutely everywhere and our boots were soaked! Luckily they put the fire on in the afternoon, so we were able to dry ourselves and our boots. We spent the evening talking with other people (especially a nice Australian group!) about how good it would be to finally get over the pass, and have a shower! (We hadn't had one for 2 days!) Everyone was scared as the pass is 5416m and there was lots of snow! Tulsi assured us we'd have no problem in setting off for the pass at 4.30am (!!!!), when it would still be dark and we didn't have head torches! We managed to talk him into leaving at 5.15am instead! However, that night in Thorang Phedi was where all our problems began......

Sarah began with sickness and diarrhoea in the middle of the night, and it continued and continued!! Plastic bags were again used to great effect (luckily Phil had earplugs in that night so missed the sound effects of this!). Tulsi came to wake us up at 4.30am then went off to get his medical kit! Anti-vomit and anti-diarrhoea tablets were issued and this seemed to do the trick! Tulsi's belief was that Sarah had got cold and this accounted for all the illness. The answer was plenty of hot water and not to have milk tea/porridge/cold water or anything that she had been having (!). The only thing she was allowed to eat was mushroom soup. Tulsi was very good despite his theories and he even went and bought a walking stick and carried her rucksack. He assured us that we could still make the pass that morning!!! So we set out about 8.30am, by which time the sickness etc had stopped. The way to High Camp was horrible!!!!!!!! Incredibly steep, incredibly slippy and completely exhausting. It took us 1hr30 to do a 45min journey and by the time we got to High Camp we were too knackered to go on. We had lunch at High Camp and went up a few hundred metres to acclimatise. This was all we could manage that day. However, the way didn't seem nearly as steep which gave us hope for the next day- hopefully the worst was over!

Early next morning we set out for the pass, although we now both had slightly dodgy stomachs and were really worried we wouldn't actually be able to make it! We were also longing for a shower at this point. The way was much less steep but was still really difficult as we were both feeling so crap. We were completely exhausted and feeling weak and with the added worry of stomach troubles we knew it would be a difficult day! But we made it to the top about 10.30am. Samir was constantly being sick when we were up there (altitude again) so unfortunately he had to head straight down. At the top there's a sign congratulating all that make it up and we had lots of photos next to it. Phil's camera decided it didn't like the cold so much and packed up! We stayed up there for about 15mins, luckily the sun was out so it was slightly less cold, then we started the big descent down to Muktinath. The descent was much steeper than the ascent, and the snow was really slippy from those who had passed before us. We ended up tredding in the soft snow at the side which was up to 2 feet deep in places! Muktinath was a great place, we finally had the long awaited hot shower and it was actually quite warm.

The next few days were boringly following the Kali Gandaki valley where it was really windy! On the day which was supposed to have the best views it decided to rain on us, so we got absolutely soaked and didn't see anything! The next exciting place we reached was Tatopani, which was full of orange trees and felt like a tropical paradise in comparison with everything else. This place also had a great bakery where we stocked up on chocolate cake and pastries!

From here it was a really long day's hike up to Ghorepani, where troubles began again. Sarah had a recurrence of sickness and diarrhoea (even worse than last time if that's even possible!) and Phil had to go and wake Tulsi up in the middle of the night. Tulsi was horrified when Sarah said she had taken 2 paracetamol tablets, and even told several other Nepali people who came into the room to see the invalid. This is like an overdose by Nepali standards!! This time the sickness started early evening and carried on until 4.30am!!!! Nothing could stop it, not even Tulsi's anti-vomit/diarrhoea drugs and things got so drastic that she had to take Immodium (for the first time!) and it still didn't work! Mushroom soup was again administered but came straight back up again (plastic bags used again!), much to Phil's disgust as this was unfortunately what she had had for dinner too! Tulsi's theory this time was that Sarah had been eating too many sweet things. He also said she shouldn't have showers in future in case she got too cold!!!! Sarah missed going up to Poon Hill (3210m) for sunrise, but Phil enjoyed brilliant views of the whole Annapurna range as the sun came up. On the way down, Tulsi told Phil that he thought Sarah had leeches (???!!!!), think he may have meant worms but he didn't know the word!! but still!!!!!!!!

The next day involved climbing down 4,000 steps!!!! (thank God we weren't doing it the other way around!). We ended the trek in NayaPul, where we got a taxi back to Pokhara. We arrived back to civilisation and the haven of the Sacred Valley Inn about 11.30am. First stop shower, second stop laundry (in the most random laundry ever where the woman managed to lose a pair of Phil's knickers, tye-dye Phil's pyjama top and get pen all over Sarah's trousers! although we were half expecting not to get any clothes back so I suppose this was an improvement!). We decided to go back to a really nice restaurant that night, ordered pizza (which we were really looking forward to!). Phil's pizza arrived but had mushrooms on, which we couldn't understand until Sarah's pizza arrived which was actually Phil's pizza! (they obviously got really confused in the kitchen!). At least the puddings were yummy!

Next day we woke up still on trekking time! and thought how strange it was how Tulsi and Samir weren't there for breakfast. Although the milk porridge was really nice, and very long awaited for Sarah as she hadn't been allowed any for so long! Chiara arrived at lunchtime, we were really excited to see her!! We went out for a really nice lunch but then it started to rain, then thunder, and we were stuck there for ages but we had plenty to catch up on! When the rain stopped we went to the old town and looked around traditional Nepali clothing shops which was great fun! and even more fun because Chiara spoke Nepali to all the shopkeepers and they were really impressed! We went out for another nice meal in the evening and all ate lots! Unfortunately Chiara had to leave the next day. The visit was short but sweet. We then spent the rest of the day shopping, where we both spent far too much but on lovely things! pashminas, jewellery (including 2 very nice rings for Sarah- one with a beautiful emerald which she had made specially for her!). The rest of the time here has just been spent relaxing and going to the bakeries (and a few more shops!).

This morning Phil went to the temple on the lake, where there were fantastic views of the mountains. This was the first time we had been able to see them from Pokhara (aside from the bus park on the way to the trek!). After that she went to the mountain museum- amazing geological exhibits and she could have spent the whole day in there! Sarah was quite glad she didn't come! She relaxed with her book and wrote postcards!

We're off to India on Thursday, we're a little apprehensive after all the stories we've heard! Please everyone keep in touch as we feel completely out of touch after hearing absolutely no news for 3 weeks!! Hope everyone had a good Easter!

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Comments

[Rachel]

Trek review!
Fab pictures you guys, good work!! Sounds like the trek was a very eventful trip but the picws are definitely worth it and they'll be some great stories to tell when you recount your travels!! Keep you spirits up (...and your food down Sa! LOL!) Take care, lots of love x