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Published: December 11th 2018
We managed to sleep through our alarm this morning but were still serve a hot breakfast when we finally scuttled down (you tend to be asked to pre-order breakfast the night before for a set time). It’s become clear very quickly that it’s much more expensive on this route than on the Annapurna circuit. This means that we’ve spent most of the day a little hungry.
After eating our porridge we set off towards Namche Bazaar. The path is mostly paved and very easy to follow. Any places where you’re not sure where to go you simply wait a few seconds and another porter, trekker or yak train will emerge from the correct direction.
To begin with the path descended along the edge of the valley. Once you can see the river it’s beautiful with clear blue water. Unsurprisingly you then have to start going up.
I’m somewhat disappointed to discover that my previous acclimatisation doesn’t seem to be helping yet and we are only at 2800m.
Stephen is doing well, especially given he isn’t feeling 100% after eating something dodgy. The route is lined with teahouses though so we knew we could stop whenever needed.
a tea break sitting in the sun overlooking the river at Chhuthwatha. We ate our muslei bars as the Tibetan bread was expensive at 350 rupees.
Not that long afterwards we stopped for a lunch of pumpkin soup and momos in Zam Fute. We managed to find a little shed like place that was a little cheaper than a lot places we had passed. The food was delicious as well.
From Zam Fute we continued to Monjo where we found a lodge to stay in and decided to stop relatively early on in the day. I’m surprisingly tired so am glad it’s been a shortish day. We need to stop at Namche Bazaar tomorrow anyway due to the altitude rise so there’s not much point pushing ourselves today.
The route so far is much easier to follow than on the circuit. There are far more people walking and the airspace is full of helicopters going up towards Everest. There have also been far more mules and yaks to avoid - they have many long trains of them and they do not get out of your way.
We had a disappointing afternoon tea of burnt apple pancake, which I
still ate as I was hungry and they’re not cheap here.
Dinner was fortunately to a better standard but since they didn’t have rice pudding on the menu we walked up the village a little to somewhere else for pudding and tea. It had the added advantage of a decent fire in the dining room so we could warm up a little as well. Where we were didn’t light the fire until quite late and it wasn’t really big enough to make any difference - soooo cold!
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