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Published: December 31st 2016
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Day 6: Dingboche Rest day, only had to hike up to a 5000m peak and down. haa haa. Now not able to eat much, so no more daal bhaat. Instead I though of picking some coconut biscuits. The day started off as cloudy in the morning which was disheartening. We slept in till 8:00, and then lazed around a bit. At 9:30 the guide came to check on us and advised some garlic soup. It sounded yuck, but I though to give it a go anyway. It did make a difference. I had some pancake with it to keep the pungent taste in check. This would become quite standard meal from now on, lots of garlic soup.
Feeling a bit better, it was time to go on acclimatization hike. The weather was also getting a bit better. Our guide had disappeared, apparently gone up to get better signal to make phone call. The way was quite clear, so we set off ourselves. As we got higher, the views opened up. Ama Dablam was looking great from here. The views of multiple valleys were amazing, like a picture. I tried to capture them in camera, but without proper depth perception
effect of view is not the same. We could also see some small lakes left over from the glaciers long gone. By 4785m we were quite spent. I decided to stretch for another 60m and then head back. Every step was difficult and the trail was also not very easy here. The way down was steep and I was worried about some of the sections, but I made it alright.
Day 7: Lobuche Today felt like the defining day if we would be able to go ahead and not. It was cold, tiring and cold was starting to seep in every moment. The acclimatization day at 4400m should have prepared us for rest of the journey but I keep feeling that it did more harm than good. The day started well, very sunny, not a cloud in sight. That is always good. We were feeling strong and ready to carry on. The first part of trail to Thukla is flatish and it took 2hrs to cross. On the way great views of valley and mountains across it. We could also see Pheriche below. It seemed impossible to think about the time when we will be heading back to
lower altitudes, warm and lot of air.
After Thukla is a dreaded pass, very steep for its own good, huh. Surprisingly we crossed the pass without much difficulty in about 1hr., which is average time. We also met a few people, some carrying their own backpacks. Top of the pass was amazing, panorama of snow capped mountains on all side. I could not stop taking photos. It felt so great, we were in real Himalayas. On the pass there are also memorials to many climbers who died on Everest. You would expect it to be a sad sight, but when hikers reach here, they are so pleased to have covered the most difficult part of the day and amazed at the view that they don't feel sad. I guess that makes it a perfect memorial place for people who loved the mountains so much. Most notable is a stone marked for Scott Fischer.
Rest of the way to Lobuche is flat and long, most of it next to glacier stream. Lot of foot traffic here. Since Lobuche is a small place, our guide decided to go ahead fast and secure a room for us. We ended up in
a very nice lodge with a room. We met many people here who were doing the 3 passes route, maybe some day! or maybe never 😊 Today is filled of anticipation about tomorrow and day after if we would make it or not.
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