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Published: August 5th 2015
My trekking adventure in Helambu, Langtang and Tamang Heritage Trail took place in October/November 2014 and most of this story was written before the devastating earthquake which struck 5 months later leaving some the places I had been hiking through beyond recognition and in total ruins. My thoughts go to all those people who suffered in these tragic events.
Day 1 : Sundarijal 1350 m. - Chisopani 2140 m. 6h50m After having spent a couple of days in Kathmandu preparing for my trip and getting to much exposure to the citys alarmingly insane pollution, I was delighted to be heading out of this damaging environment for the next 2-3 weeks and embrace the fresh, clean air offered by its beautiful countryside and amazing mountains.
Unlike my prevoius treks to the Everest Region , Annapurna Region, Kangchenjunga Region and Makalu Region, getting to the trail head this time did not involve any bumpy flights or terrifying bus rides. The easy reachable starting point for my trek through Helambu-Gosainkunda-Langtang and Tamang Heritage Trail Area was a simple and straightforward 35 minute taxi drive from the busy capital, putting me literally on the doorsteps of this
fairly long, beautfiful, scenic walk.
When our car eventually came to its final stop in the sunny village of Sundarijal 1350 m. at 10 am it was the final farewell to the world of motorized transportation. For the next few weeks our legs would walk us into some fascinating places offering amazing views and interesting cultural encounters.
Sundarijal is a small village located only 15 km north-east with a population of a little more than 2000 people. The name Sundarijal means "Beautiful Water" in Nepali and both tourists and locals come here for recreation and hiking in the nearby hills and areas.
At 10.15 am we were on our way ! The steep concrete road out of Sundarijal was definately not a smooth and gentle introduction to the walking this day and I saw quite some stiff legs even early on. Lined with private houses and guesthouses on the left side and Bagmati River and the famous big waterpipe supplying Kathmandu with water on our right hand side added some life to the early minutes of this walk, but it did not take long until we found ourselves inside forest area where the track continued to rise.
Within 35 minutes ( 10.50 am ) we reached the entrance gate to Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park and here I had to show my passport and pay an entry fee of 250 Npr. This 159 km2 park, located on the northern fringe of the Kathmandu Valley, was declared a national park in 2002 and is currently the smallest among the 10 different national parks in the country. The park hosts a rich and plentiful wildlife including himalayan black bears, leopards, rhesus monkeys, wild boar and almost 200 species of birds, some of them endangered.
As we climbed further we started to pass houses getting a sense of the everyday nepali middle hill life as we walked by. At around 11.40 am we arrived in the small tamang village of Mulkharka 1855 m. which did not only offer some fine views down into the smoggy Kathmandu Valley, but also simple lodges and teashops selling refreshments, saving thirsty travellers coming up the steep sunny hillside. Since this was just about the last place to grab some food and drinks before Chisopani we decided to break here for lunch.
Leaving Mulkharka the broad and well laid out trail eased quite
a bit and did not feel as energy consuming as the first few hours up from Sundarijal. Slicing through a dense forest of oak-and rhododendron, providing some convenient protection from the mid-day sun, I felt that I almost had this entire trail to myself. When I reached the stone steps and prayer flags at Borlang Bhanjyang 2472 m. at 1.35 pm, marking highest point on todays walk, I had only encountered a handful of people along the way.
From the Borlang Bhanjyang Pass the remaining walk to Chisopani was easy downhill and we arrived in the popular village at 2.30 pm.
My first impression when I saw the collection of high rise buildings dominating the village area did not give me any cosy vibes, but whatever this place may lack in beauty and charm it certainly makes up for itself by offering some of the finest panorama views of the Himalays. From the snow capped Annapurna in the west to Everest in the east with Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, Langtang, Jugal Himal and many more adding to the great line up of mountains, it is understandable why Chisopani attracts thousands of tourists every season.
Among the clusters of
hotels and guesthouses we checked in at Hotel Milan & Mountain View Restaurant. A single room with attached bathroom was 500 Npr, Dal bhat 250 Npr and a water bottle 70 Npr.
Day 2 : Chisopani 2140 m. - Kutumsang 2470 m. 6h45m Chisopani was definately a bit colder than Kathmandu, but my down sleeping bag from Shonas in Thamel kept its promise of a warm and comfortable night.
Weather this morning was surprisingly good compared to yesterday when we arrived here and except from some light haze, conditions were just about perfect. From the village area there were some fine views of the distant snow covered Himalayan peaks which make this beautiful country so special and back there somewhere was Tibet as well. Apparently as many as 36 high mountains can be seen from this location.
The views and the weather was much better than the oat porridge and omelette I had for breakfast and I was very eager to take advantage of these clear morning hours and leave early before the clouds started to cover the hills we were walking in.
We left Chisopani at 7.45 am. It was all downhill
for the first 40 minutes until we reached the small brahmin and chhetri village of Pati Bhanjyang 1830 m. ( 8.25 am ), which had a few shops and houses.
From Pati Bhanjyang an easy gradual climb, mostly on a broad track, took us to Thankune Bhanjyang ( 9.05 am ) a little bit further up the road, where the white, prominent and inviting Lama Guesthouse seemed like the tallest building around since Chisopani. This small settlement/village sits at the bottom of a fairly long and strenous climb to Chipling and Jogini Danda further up on this long ridge and it can therefore be a good idea to take a rest and refresh a few minutes in Thankune Bhanjyang before exposing your legs to the hard work that is waiting.
On all my previous long walks in this country I have been carrying my own big backpack up, down and across endless hills, mountains and high passes and knows at least a little bit about what it is like to have tired legs, hurting joints and sore shoulders with all that added weight. Coming up the steep slope towards Chipling without a heavy element stuck to my back
felt luxurious. This definately gave me an excellent opportunity to appreciate my surroundings a lot more.
The Chipling Gosainkund Lodge marked the beginning of Chipling 2170 m. and I arrived here at 10 am. The views back across the green rolling hillsides as far as Chisopani and beyond from the lodge site were great and together with the nice warming sunshine a break here was mandatory. My porter-guide arrived a few minutes later.
Further up at the high end of Chipling, nestled between steep and scenic farm terraces, there were a few more lodges to choose from and certainly add some options when it comes to lunch ( and sleeping ) places between Chisopani and Kutumsang. We had already decided that we would push it as far as Golphu Bhanjyang before taking our first real break and still had a few more meters of uphill and downhill before sitting down and grab something to eat this day.
I reached the top of the Jhogin Danda ridge 2420 m. in less than one hour ( 10.55 am ) and the views down below me of Chipling, Pati Bhanjyang and Chisopani on the way up here were fantastic. I
also met quite a few other trekkers coming from both directions as I trodded my way up and I am pretty sure they all enjoyed and appreciated the beautiful Nepali middle hill panorama as much as I did, which really was at full display this morning.
From the ridge it was a nice and pleasant descent all the way down to the small Tamang village of Golphu Bhanjyang 2140 m and we arrived there at 11.50 am. The main thoroughfare, Golphu Bazar, was lined with houses on both sides and the Gosaikund Lodge & Restaurant and Himalaya Lodge & Restaurant were located at the entrance of this short walkway. My porter-guide and I sat down at the latter one and I paid 250 Npr for a generous and tasty plate of fried macaroni w/veg.
A poster on the wall outside of the guesthouse told the story of a dutch couple who came to Golphu Bhanjyang in 2009. Shocked by the harsh living conditions in the area they decided to establish the "H.A.N.D.S Charity Organization" to help improving schools, sanitation and to support families and children with basic needs and education. Despite its relatively short existence this small organization
has already completed a number of projects in the area making life perhaps a little bit better for the people in this small village.
Todays walk from Chisopani to Kutumsang involved climbing two ridges and with the Jhogin Danda ridge already completed and behind us, we only had one more "obstacle" to cover before arriving at our last and final stop today.
We left Golphu Bhanjyang at 1.15 pm heading upwards, getting a fine overview of the village perched above green farm terraces down below. Some blue information boards guided me in the right direction up the hillside and when I topped out on Lapcho Dada at 2 pm the board gave me the option of walking to Ghyang Monastery ( which was 10 minutes ) or continue to Kutumsang. We did not have any ambitions of doing any detours today and proceeded straight ahead and downhill eager to reach Kutumsang in a reasonable time.
From Lapcho Dada it was more or less easy and comfortable walking. Soon Kutumsang 2450 m. appeared down below us sitting at the bottom of the U-shaped ridge we were coming down. When we arrived at the friendly Dorje Lakpa Guesthouse at
2.30 pm some angry looking clouds and thunder was starting to close in on the area and we were more than happy to settle under a dry roof.
At Dorje Lakpa Guesthouse dal baht was 250 Npr and Coke 200 Npr. Kutumsang has a number of guesthouses to choose from.
Day 3 : Kutumsang 2470 m. - Tharepati 3640 m. 6h25m The occasional rain showers which had been coming down throughout the night were gone by the time I was having my oat porridge breakfast in the early morning hours and when we decided to leave our guesthouse at 8 am conditions looked very promising. Today a climb of nearly 1200 altitude meters would take us to the barren slopes of Tharepati which holds some fine views of Gangchenpo 6367 m. , Gur Karpo Ri 6889 m. , Lingshing 6078 m. Loenpo Gang 6979 m. and the formidable Dorje Lakpa 6966 m.
At the opposite side of the village there was a Langtang National Park Office where I had to present my TIMS card ( 20,-USD ) and my Langtang National Park Permit ( 3000,-Npr ) to be able to continue any further. The
next checkpoint would be in Ghora Tabela in 4 days from now.
With all the formalities now behind us we started to move uphill enjoying the fine waves of hills surrounding us. In less than 30 minutes we passed a large white stupa located on an open grassy field before climbing further up through quiet rhododendron forest. At one point I thought I was the only person around on the empty trails here this morning until suddenly out of nowhere the Ever Green View Hotel 2975 m. appeared ( 9.25 am ) right next to where I was walking. The friendly lodgeowners convinced me to come in and join them in the sunny yard offering me accomodation, food and something to drink as I entered. With my ambition to reach Tharepati today and still a bit fresh from breakfast I was nevertheless happy to sit down for a few minutes, buy a snickers ( 130 Npr ) and share a chat with these lovely people.
Another hour of walking took me to the Pangbo Danda Ridge ( 10.20 am ) where the Red Panda Hotel & Lodge 3285 m. was located. By the time I reached here weather
was already starting to change with unpredictable clouds moving in and I could feel a little bit of chill for the first time since leaving Kutumsang this morning. From here it was only a 20 minute easy walk to Hotel Green View & Lodge in Magen Goth 3285 m. where I eventually arrived at 10.40 am beating some unexpected powerful rain and hail showers only by a few minutes.
The cosy and inviting Hotel Green View & Lodge seemed to have many of the same qualities found in the lodges on the more famous and popular trekking routes like Annapurna and Everest. Large menu, warm and decorative dining hall, telephone, fine selections of local handmade scarfs, hats and gloves for sale etc. A fried macaroni w/veg was 340,- Npr and Coke 290,-Npr.
When we left our lunch place at 12.30 I knew that most of todays hard work was now behind us and I expected the remaining walk up to Tharepati to be a little bit more gentle. My only concern was how the somewhat unsettled weather would be treating us along the way. As it looked right now I would consider myself very lucky if got the
chance to spot any white himalayan peaks along the way.
About 15 minutes after leaving Hotel Green View & Lodge we passed a few other buildings/guesthouses before moving up into an empty quiet forest. With mist and clouds taking a stronger and stronger hold on the area visiblity left me with nothing to see except a gloomy-like-looking forest with the sound of wind knocking on leaves and branches.
When I reached Tharepati 3640 m. at 2.25 pm I literally walked straight on to the first building, Hotel Gosainkunda Thatepati, feeling like a ghost coming out from nowhere.
Rather than staying at this first lodge my experienced porter-guide thought it would be a better idea to stay at the Tashi Delek Lodge, located a little bit further down on this exposed ridge, to get more protection from the potential wind which would make it colder and more uncomfortable especially at night in the not so good isolated rooms.
Tashi Delek Lodge had a very basic standard with a welcoming heated dining hall and simple bedrooms. A dal baht was 490 Npr. Except me there was a group from Germany here this afternoon. They had been coming down
from the Laurebina Pass on a long days walk today.
Day 4 : Tharepati 3640 m. - Phedi 3740 m. 3h55m The ground was covered in frost and thankfully the views were a bit better than yesterday when I woke up in my cold bedroom at around 6 am.
Outside I could now see long parts of the 10 km steep mountainside leading all the way to Phedi that we would be traversing today and from this angle it was difficult to imagine that there could be a "healthy" trail going that way :-) Hopes of getting a glimpse of Dorje Lakpa, Gur Karpo Ri, Lingshing, Loenpo Gang and Gangchenpo from the barren Tharepati ridge was to be wishing for too much this morning. All the white peaks remained firmly hidden behind the stubborn clouds.
Wearing my down jacket for the first time on this trek we left Tharepati at 7.30 am. The trail descended for a while at first before climbing again to Hotel Natural View Point where we arrived at 8.25 am. This place offered accomodation, refreshments and some good views back up to Tharepati. A 10 minute break here.
Another
25 minutes ahead we reached the lodges at Gopte 3440 m. at 9.00 am. which basically is the last place offering accomodation before Phedi. Groups and trekkers coming down from the Laurebina Pass in a long day sometimes stay here instead pushing another 2 hours to reach Tharepati.
With clouds building up leaving me with little or no views, I proceeded on the undulating easy-to-follow trail through light forest and at 9.50 am I reached a small friendly teashop at Kasturi Danda selling Fanta, Coke, Mountain Dew, Buscuits, Mars, Snickers and more. A water bottle was 250 Npr. There were views back towards Tharepati from here as well.
Soon after passing some abandoned buildings at 10.30 am I was able to spot the two lodges at Phedi ahead located on a steep ridgeslope in a heaven of clouds, but still I had 30 minutes of walking left. As I approached my final stop this day the trail became a bit more awkward especially coming down a last steep and a bit edgy section covered in snow and ice which required some watchful and very careful footing. Once I was down on the "safe" side I only had to
cross a tiny wooden handmade bridge before climbing up to Phedi 3740 m. ( 11.25 am ).
We decide to stay at the second lodge, Hotel Dawa Baby which offered simple and basic facilities. Veg.fried macaroni was 350 Npr, Dal baht 500 Npr and Sprite 300 Npr. Except me and my porter guide there was a small german group and 3 french people here this day.
Day 5 : Phedi 3740 m. via Laurebina Pass 4610 m. and Gosainkunda 4400 m. - Cholang Pati 3550 m. 3h55m I was delighted to see that the weather had improved significantly from yesterday afternoon. Stepping outside of the lodge I could now see all the way to Tharepati and sections of the path we had been walking on to get here. From this angle the strip of trail really looked precarious in places literally just hanging on to the steep mountainside.
We were the first people to leave Phedi at 6.15 am. Despite a cold morning and little bit of fresh snow and frost on the ground, walking conditions were good and firm. On the highest rugged peaks above us the sun had already presented itself with
its first lights and from our position I knew it would not take long until it came down to warm up our somewhat chilly surroundings as well.
We moved up very slowly. Within less than one hour of steady uphill walking I could spot the lodge/teahouse at Bera Goth 4230 m. located a bit further up in the rocky rugged terrain and behind there was Surya Peak 5144, a non-technical trekking peak offering some fine views of the surrounding ranges.
We reached the single stone hut at Bera Goth at 7.25 am and was now about halfway between Phedi and the Laurebina Pass. Except from the lodgeowner there were nobody else around here this beautiful morning and the place was just as peaceful as its vast rugged quiet surroundings.
The trail became more indistinct as we moved on and the fresh white cover of snow made my navigation slightly more tricky at times. In foul weather conditions I reckon that route finding can be extremely difficult up here.
The first group of trekkers and some speedy porters eventually started to come down towards when we caught eye-sight with the Laurebina Pass and we followed the footprints
they had left behind all the way to the top. We reached Laurebina Pass 4610 m. at 8.55 am.
People were coming and going taking their "victory" pictures and selfies on the snow covered knoll which marks the Laurebina Pass, all of them happy and excited to have made it all the way up here. Though the views were not perfect, as clouds were slowly starting to close all the gaps around us, I nevertheless managed to zoom in on some of the peaks forming the formidable Ganesh Himal range ( Ganesh IV-II & III ) from the position were I was standing. Just below to my left was Surya Kund, a small scenic lake, one of more than 100 different small lakes in the area.
The Laurebina Pass is approximately 43 km north of Kathmandu and marks the end/beginning of the Helambu region. For the average trekker this pass is a much safer, less technical and easier option than the Ganja La Pass 5106 m. which are the two major high passes linking Langtang Valley with Helambu.
After spending nearly half an hour at the pass it was time to continue down the other side. A
clear compact trail had been made in the snow and was easy to follow descending nicely in the open terrain. A few minutes down I could now see all of the five highest peaks of Ganesh Himal ( including I & V ) through a gap in the clouds with Ganesh I/Yangra standing there as the highest at 7422 m. The Ganesh Himal mountain massif consists of 9 peaks all together.
After passing a second lake, Ganesh Kund ,on our right hand side, the blue colours of Gosainkund lake appeared for the first time down in front of us, sitting calmly on the bottom slopes of Cholangpati Danda 4788 m. It was a beautiful sight !
According to Hindu belief the Gosainkund lake was created by Lord Shiva himself who desperately needed some drinking water to ease his pain after swallowing some poision to save the earth. In August each year this place turns into a massive religious gathering when thousands of pilgrims come up this way to take a holy dip in the water in the belief that sin will then come out of their bodies.
We had to be a little bit careful on the
last bit of descent to the lake itself as some icy areas made things slightly more difficult, but once we were down by the lake it was an easy and comfortable stroll to the lodges at the far end of the water.
We eventually reached Gosainkund 4400 m. at 10.15 am and it had taken us only 55 minutes to get here from the Laurebina Pass. Because of too much altitude gain in one day staying here overnight was not an option for me, but I definately would have done so if my acclimatization approach had been more acceptable. Sleeping here would break the protocol of moving up only 300-400 m. pr.day. Spending some quality time sitting outside Hotel Namaste eating popcorn ( 250 Npr ) while overlooking the beautiful lake was a pretty good second choice though :-)
We left Gosainkund at 11.00 am exiting on a well laid out trail reaching a small pass with prayer flags about 20 minutes later and then descending further alongside the steep mountainside where the trail might become a bit susceptible in snowy conditions.
Views were getting locked up by low clouds accumulating around us as we moved down
and only now and then there were short glimpses revealing the world behind. A collection of chortens/stupas at 4120 m. suddenly appeared in front of us ( 11.45 am ) and I knew that in clear weather views from this position are unbelievable. The Annapurna Range , Himalchuli 7893 m., Manaslu 8163 m., Ganesh Himal and many more Himalayan giants are visible from here.
There was more snow on the ground on this section of the route and it was helpful to have a clear cut trail to follow when we suddenly found ourselves in a complete white-out for a while just after leaving the chorten. When visibilty finally returned the rooftops at Laurebina Yak 3920 m. appeared down below. We eventually reached the collection of lodges there at 12.20 pm.
It was a big,big disappointment to get the message that every single room in every single lodge at Laurebina Yak was fully booked. With its prime location and stupendous views of the massive Himalayan Range, this was one of those places I had been really looking forward to be spending a night and wake up to the glorious vista of giant snow capped peaks and mountains.
Instead we had to drop down another 30 minutes and into the woods to Cholang Pati 3550 m. where we checked in at Hotel Langtang Lirung View. Dal baht 450 Npr, Mineral Water 200 Npr and Bounty 150 Npr.
Day 6 : Cholang Pati 3550 m. via Sing Gompa and Thulo Syabru - Bamboo 1930 m. 7h15m It was a fantastic clear, cold morning with brilliant views across to the Langtang Himal range where Gengo Lirung 6581 m. - Mera 6958 m. - Langtang Lirung 7234 m. - Kimshung 6770 m. were all lined up in front of me in a brilliant display. Looking in a more westerly direction I could see an ocean of white peaks as far as Tibet and among them was Kabang Ri 6717 m. - Gudi 5942 m. and Wusa 6358 m.
While most people were still in their sleeping bags I was already out taking advantage of the beautiful morning light taking some memorable photos and admiring the amazing surroundings to the extent that I almost forgot breakfast completely until my porter-guide came out to remind me that my oat porridge had been ready for a while :-)
Today's walk would take us well down into the deep and narrow Langtang Valley where we would walk as far up as Bamboo located right next to the roaring Langtang Khola river running down the huge valley. Getting there involved a knee testing drop of more than 1500 altitude meters.
We left Cholang Pati at 7.20 am descending through forest on a easy-to-follow trail getting a glimpse of our surroundings every now and then along the way. In less than one hour the settlement of Sing Gompa 3330 m. appeared down in front of us embraced in the early morning sun on a deforested mountainside/ridge. When we eventually arrived there at 8.20 am most other tourists already seemed to have left the place either heading for Laurebina, Dunche or Thulo Syabru.
I had read somewhere that there were bakery items available here in Sing Gompa and was overly delighted to find a mouthwatering cinnamon roll ( 150 Npr ) at the Hotel Yak Nak to accompany me in the warm sunshine. I later learned that there was a cheese factory here as well and would have loved also adding that to my menu here this morning.
From
Sing Gompa we turned right and into the forest again continuing on an easy undulating trail for 40 minutes until we reached the two lodges at Phoprang Danda 3210 m. superbly located with excellent views in different directions. From this place I could actually recognize Laurebina Yak and the ridge we had been walking after coming down from Gosainkund.
The walking up until now this morning had been among the easiest so far on this trek, but from Phoprang Danda a steep, knee tiring drop of nearly 1000 altitude meters to Thulo Syabru was the next challenge ahead. Walking sticks are recommended !
Without a big backpack, punishing my knee caps and joints even harder, the descent went surprisingly smooth. The dry surface definately made things more easy ableing me to get a nice, solid footgrip all the way down. I think the people coming up in the opposite direction, sweating and combating the steep never-ending hillside, were struggling far more than I did :-)
Little less than halfway down between Phoprand Danda and Thulo Syabru was Dursagang 2735 m. ( 10.05 am ) and the friendly Mountain View Hotel, where we stopped to rest for a
short while before descending further.
" Cheapest and fastest internet in town " , " 24 hrs. solar hot & cold shower facilities ". The signs and boards in the compact Tamang village of Thulo Syabru 2260 m. ( 10.55 am ) revealed that I was now entering a more touristy area similar to that in Chisopani on Day 1. Delicately located on the main trail between Syabrubesi and Kyanjin Gompa this village receive thousands of adventure seeking trekkers each season plying this route and many lodges, restaurants and shops are built here to facilitate that business. Among the more than 120 households in the village nearly 60 % are economically involved in tourism. Tourism come second after farming in the local econmony.
Among the wide selection of lodges here we sat down at the friendly Blue Star Hotel where a veg.fried macaroni was 250 Npr and a Coca Cola 250 Npr.
Fresh on renewed energy from lunch we left Thulo Syabru at 12.10 pm proceeding downhill crossing an open hillside of farming terraces and then descending to the first suspension bridge on this trek since starting from Sundarijal , crossing the Chopche Khola ( 12.50 pm
). We were now entering the deep, narrow sections of the Langtang Valley and the trail continued in undulating fashion through forest with little or no views along the way. Except from some very stubborn yaks and buffalos blocking my way completely scaring me from time to time with their sudden unpredictable movements the walk itself was quite uneventful.
When we reached the two lodges in Pairo 1800 m. at 1.40 pm I could feel a light drizzle coming down and I crossed my fingers that this would not escalate into a downpour making the last bit of walking up to Bamboo a potentially miserable affair. A sign in Pairo said it was still 1 hour to get there.
While my porter-guide was unpacking his rain cover I decided to go ahead a meet up with him at Bamboo where we would be staying this night. My feet moved pretty quickly up the green forest trail and in 35 minutes only I reached our final stop this afternoon, Bamboo 1930 m. ( 2.35 pm )
There were 3 lodges to choose from here and we picked the friendly Tibet Guethouse which offered hot showers, a nice warm
dining hall and a comfortable room. Dal baht was 400 Npr, Coca Cola 250 Npr and Mineral Water 130 Npr.
Day 7 : Bamboo 1930 m - Langtang 3440 m. 5h55m While yesterdays hike involved dropping 1500 altitude meters, todays walk would take us back up to almost the exact same height further up in the Langtang Valley. From the deep, narrow and somewhat dark location of Bamboo, we would end our day in a more rugged, open and appealing part of the valley at Langtang Village. This was the day when we were really starting to get closer to the big, white shining mountains encircling this beautiful area.
A single pancake for breakfast is seldom enough to keep me going for many long hours, but I knew that there were facilities/lodges coming up on regular intervals that would be happy to get some business from a "starving" trekker looking for some food and snacks :-)
We left Bamboo 1930 m. at 7.30 am moving up on the right hand side of the Langtang Valley River and then crossing to the left side on a suspenson bridge at 8 am. A relatively tough climb took us
up to the Hotel Ganesh View Lodge in Renche 2495 m. at 9 am, which offered views back through the U-shaped valley as far as Thulo Syabru.
In Renche there were two trail options. The one less travelled was heading up to Sherpagaon ( 1-2 hours ), Kyangjim ( 3-4 hours ) and Briddhim ( 7-9 hours ) and the second one was the busy main track continuing up the valley floor to Langtang and Kyanjin Gompa. Sitting there looking at the trail information board while resting my legs for a few minutes I could already feel a sense of excitement of what the walk up Sherpagaon and beyond would bring when we returned here in a few days from now. But first there were some spectacular moments and incredible highlights waiting higher up on the main trail, on the open spaces of the Langtang Valley. To get there we just had to follow the crowds :-)
The collection of lodges and guesthouses known as Lama Hotel 2480 m. ( 9.20 am ) was an easy 15 minutes away and as we continued further and approached Riverside 2770 m. ( 10.30 ) the white imposing figure of Langtang
Lirung 7234 m. started to appear at the head of the valley. This is the highest peak in this area and the 99 th. highest mountain in the world.
My guide suggested that Ghodatabela 2970 m. would be a convenient place to have lunch this morning , and to get there we had to walk for another 1 hour from Riverside. As we gradually ascended on the well laid out trail the valley slowly started to widen up more and more giving us a better sense of our surroundings and the way we were heading. When we reached the sunny open space and lodges at Ghodatabela 11.35 am food and drinks were already moving fast and busy between the kitchen and the crowded outdoor tables, indicating to me that this must be a very popular lunch stop place for those coming both up and down this valley. A Sprite was 230 Npr.
After a tasty plate of fried potatoe chips and more than one hour of delightful sunshine warming up my body before some cold nights ahead, we left Ghodatabela at 12.40 pm. heading towards the nearby checkpoint/military camp where I had to present my permits and register
before moving on.
The hardest part of todays walk was definately now behind us and the remaining few hours to Langtang Village felt quite easy and comfortable despite being located almost 500 altitude meters higher up than our lunch spot. We passed through the small settlement of Thangsyap 3200 m. at 1.25 pm, stopped to watch some langur monkys playing in the branches, crossed a long suspension bridge and enjoyed the fabolous surroundings before finally entering Langtang Village 3430 m. two hours later at 2.40 pm.
There were lots nice of guesthouses to pick from in Langtang and the village had by far the best selection lodges so far on this trek. We ended up staying at the nice Pilgrim Guesthouse, the only pink building in the area. Dal baht here was 610 Npr.
From outside the guesthouse there were views up north towards a section of the Langtang Lirung range and to the east the iconic Gang Chempo 6386 m. looked very impressive, especially at sunset. The great english explorerer and mountaineer, H W Tilman, nicknamed this 'Fluted Peak'
Day 8 : Langtang 3440 m. - Kyanjin Gompa 3860 m. 2h15m & Kyanjin Ri 4773 m.
A brilliant clear, blue sky greeted me when I looked out of my window in the early morning hours giving me a real boost of excitement of the day ahead. The promising conditions accelerated my normal morning procedure and well before 8 am we were on our way to Kyanjin Gompa.
While longer parts of yesterdays walk involved walking up through a forest covered area with only occasional mountain views along the way, today there would be captivating white peaks in almost every directions up the valley, ending the day standing face to face with the colossal east wall of Langtang Lirung measuring 7234 m..
The big lodges and guesthouses getting the majority of the tourist business seemed to me to be located at the lower part of the Langtang Village, so I decided to spend some of my rupees at one of the tiny, "invisible" teashops sitting among the small classical stone houses on the upper edge of the village, making sure my money would benefit at least a bit more people in this poor community. When I left I had stocked up on a considerable amount of chocolates and snacks for the
upcoming days and both me and the lady at the teashop agreed that we had made a pretty good deal this morning :-).
Tsergo Ri and Gang Chempo were the most prominent peaks ahead as we made our way up the valley. The walking was uncomplicated and very easy and we could hardly feel that we were getting into higher altitude on the well trodden path.
As we approached the big, white stupa located 15-20 minutes before Kyanjin Gompa both Dragpoche 6562 m. and Kyanjin Ri 4773 m. appeared to our left and to the right the formidable Ganja La Himal was rising covered in white snow almost as far down as the valley floor where we were walking.
Kyanjin Gompa Village 3860 m. ( 9.55 am ) did not appear until we were literally standing at its doorsteps on the bottom slopes of Kyanjin Ri near the tongue of the Langtang Lirung Glacier, one of the longest glaciers in Nepal. This is the last village in the Langtang Valley with a colourful set up of buildings and lodges in a quiet, peaceful and scenic environment,
We stayed at the brilliant Panorama Guesthouse at the far
end of the village with rooms offering uninterrupted views of Gang Chempo, Ganja La Himal and yaks roaming on the big open grassy ground in front of the building. A double room with attached bathroom was 450 Npr, Dal baht 515 Npr. Extra credit to the lodgeowner and his family/staff who took really really good care of their guests making sure everyone was happy and comfortable. For those considering attempting the Ganja La Pass the owner can arrange an All Inclusive Package crossing costing USD500-,.
With pleny of daylight and energy left I decided to make the most out of my day and do a walk up to Kyanjin Ri, a popular trekking peak located just north of the village. To get there I found out that I had at least two trail options to choose from both of them quite steep, but very manageable. To get a wider impression of this area I thought it would be a good idea to come up one way and down the other.
I left Kyanjin Ri at 10.55 am walking up the barren slope above the village keeping slightly to the right and then entering a gully shortly afterwards which
had a fairly clear defined trail going steeply up with brilliant views of Ganja La 5122 m. and Naya Kangri 5846 m. behind my back on the opposite side of the valley. Despite being quite well acclamatized coming up the steep terrain took a lot of breathing and effort out of me and I soon met a Canadian couple who confirmed exactly the same, struggling a bit with the combination of challenging gradient and less air pressure.
I kept a steady pace and rythm getting better views as the gully started to widen out and the summit flags appeared up to my left. The imposing Tsergo Ri looked pretty snow bound on my far right hand side, but it was still walkable and doable according to the lodgeowner at my guesthouse. I intended to go there tomorrow.
As I approached the summit ridge the massive and highly impressive east wall of Langtang Lirung 7227 m. emerged in front of me standing right next to the neat looking Kimshung 6781 m. , only 4 kilometers away to the right.
I eventually reached the summit point at 4773 m. dotted with colourful prayer flags at 12.25 pm, absolutely amazed
by the phenomenal 360 degree panorama views on offer. Around me I had a wonderful necklace of mountains including Langtang Lirung 7227 m., Kimshung 6781 m., Tsergo Ri 4984 m. ,Langshisa Ri 6413 m., Gangchenpo 6387 m., Ganja La 5122, Naya Kangri 5846 m. and many many more. This is definately a trip well worth doing ! The surroundings are incredible !
The local name of Kyanjin Ri is 'Menchaamsaa' and is not visible from Kyanjin Gompa village itself. Following the ridgeline almost in a straight line downwards there is a second peak also marked by colourful prayer flags which is called Chaikyang Ri 4500 m. This nice viewpoint is clearly visible from Kyanjin Gompa and some people sometimes wrongly refer to this as Kyanjin Ri.
The walk down from the high peak ( Kyanjin Ri ) to the low peak ( Chaikyang Ri ) on the well defined ridge trail ( a bit steep in places ) was superb and took me only about 20 minutes. From there it took me another 30 minutes to reach the village at the bottom of the valley happy and excited about todays amazing adventures.
I rounded off my day
at the Dorje Bakery embracing some high calory pieces of chocolate cake, apple pie and cinnamon rolls while listening in to some rumours that there might be a weather storm coming this way in the next day or so. With the tragic events hitting the Annapurna Region just a few weeks ago and with my intention of walking up to Tsergo Ri tomorrow I made a phone call to my agent in Kathmandu just to get a trustworthy view of the situation. According to him the weather forecast looked excellent :-)
Day 9 : Kyanjin Gompa 3860 m. - Tsergo Ri 4984 m. - Kyanjin Gompa 3860 m. 5h50m I could not have asked for much better when I woke up to yet another day of clear, perfect weather and blue sky in every possible direction. On the big open pasture in front of my guesthouse I could already see a few early starters moving towards Tsergo Ri and it felt a bit assuring to know that there would be other people heading for the summit as well this day.
After grabbing a big bowl of oat porridge for breakfast and putting some of yesterdays
bakery items in my backpack along with my waterbottle and some warm extra clothes I was on my way at 6.45 am. The first 15 minutes went smoothly just following the valley floor but became slightly more tricky after that when I had to find a suitable way of crossing a river containing patches of morning ice and a fair amount of water, enough to get my feet completely wet if I did not keep my footing right.
It took us a good 10 minutes to find a healthy spot to get across the stream but the combination of some very supportive walking sticks and careful balancing moves eventually brought me safely and dry on to the other side.
The long and beautiful climb to the summit starts immediately after the river, following a good trail bending up the lower slope on to a ridge from where much of the trail ahead is very clear and obvious. From this point I decided to send my porter-guide back to Kyanjin Gompa for a well deserved break and continue by myself to the summit.
I kept a good pace walking up the well defined ridge with views of the
Tsergo Ri summit to my right and soon also the incredible Langtang Lirung wall to my left. Behind me the snow bound Ganja La 5122 m. and Naya Kangri 5846 m. looked almost equally impressive.
After walking for 1h30m ( 8.40 am ) from the river I reached a big area of rocks and boulders partially covered up in snow making it a bit challenging to find the right trail through . In good, clear weather, like today, navigating through this area was easy even though I got slightly a bit off the main track at times. If conditions are less than ideal passing through this sector requires extra care and attention.
It took me about 25 minutes to get through the rocky section and by then I had already passed a few other people who were also heading for the summit. Now a steep and tiring grassy slope requiring a lot of breathing, energy and frequent breaks had to be negotiated before entering the easier saddle ( 9.20 am ) that would eventually take me to the summit.
I needed a couple of minutes to resume myself after beating the demanding slope and with the prayer
flags now clearly visible at the summit I knew that all the hard work was now behind me. Footprints in the hard packed and somewhat icy snow guided me all the way up on the remaining part of the walk and 25 minutes later I finally reached the superb summit of Tsergo Ri 4984 m. at 9.45 am.
Standing on the very top of Tsergo Ri witnessing the 360 degree magnificent perspective of superb-looking mountains and valleys it is easy to understand why people make the long effort to come up here. This remarkable viewpoint may not be as famous and popular as Gokyo Ri and Kala Pattar, but in terms of exceptional views and panorama experiences, which are "easy" accessible for the normal trekker, Tsergo Ri has to be placed among the best in Nepal.
Around me I had a glorious line up of snow covered peaks and mountains and from my position I could point out Pemthang Karpo Ri 6830 m., Langshisa Ri 6413 m., Dorje Lhakpa 6966 m., Gangchenpo/Fluted Peak 6387 m., Ganja La 5122 m., Naya Kangri 5846 m., Gengo Lirung 6581 m., Kimshung 6760 m. and the colossal and ever present Langtang Lirung
7234 m. Following the Langtang Valley floor and the river I could see as far down as Langtang Village bathing in beautiful sunshine this morning.
With just a handful of other people around I spent almost 1 hour at the summit taking photos, admiring my stupendous surroundings while having my hard earned lunch at what must be one of the finest places on whole Langtang/Helambu Trek. Highly recommended !
At 10.35 am I started going back down again and was quite pleased that I had my walking sticks to support me especially on the initial snowy/icy section from the summit. As I descended further there was a group of porters and clients coming up on their way to the Yala Peak 5732 m., a popular trekking peak in the area.
I was back in Kyanjin Gompa Village at 12.35 pm.
Day 10 : Kyanjin Gompa 3860 m. - Sherpagaon 2563 m. 8h5m Just like the last few days weather was again showing its best possible face providing a spotless blue sky, glorious sunshine and excellent walking conditions. Today I would backtrack the same way I came up 2 days ago as far as
Renche and from there continue on a trail to the small settlement of Sherpagaon, high above in the lower end of the Langtang Valley. This would involve 1400 meters of descent and a small climb at the end of the day the hillside up from Renche.
We waved goodbye to our excellent hosts at the guesthouse and left the scenic village of Kyanjin Gompa 3860 m. at 8.05 am moving down the trail in the open rugged terrain with the beauitful snow covered set up of Tsergo Ri 4984 m. and Gangchenpo 6387 m. behind us and the Ganja La Himal towering to our left.
When we reached Langtang Village 3440 m. at 9.55 am I had one ambition ! To visit the " Cheese and Bread Factory " had been on my list-to-do since we where here a couple of days ago and with only a light breakfast since this morning I could not wait to get hold of some freshly made bread with delicious yak cheese on top. The two friendly guys running the place this morning were already busy cutting and preparing their pieces when I arrived into their workplace, but took their time to
show me around a little bit. The bread and cheese was a mouthwatering experience and when we had left the village I already did regret that I did not buy a few more extra pieces with me that day.
According to statistics 45-60 tourists visit Langtang daily on a normal basis, but with the tragic events in the Annapurna region just a few few weeks ago many trekkers changed their itinerary and opted for Langtang instead with the daily number of visitors rising to more than 300. Despite this significant jump of people coming to the area both the trails and guesthouses for most of the time felt quiet and peaceful. When we reached our luncplace at the friendly and cosy-looking Hillside Guesthouse in Chamki 3230 m. at 11.05 am there were no other people around at the tables except me and my porter-guide. If we had picked Ghodatabela a bit further downvalley the story probably would have been completely different.
We left Chamki at 12 o'clock and picked up our pace a little bit passing through Thyangsyap 3200 m. at 12.15 pm , Army Post/Checkpoint at 12.40 pm, Riverside 2770 m. at 1.45 and a sunny Lama
Hotel 2480 m. at 2.25 pm. When we reached Renche 2400 m. a little bit further on ( 2.55 pm ) our plan was to stop here for the day and continue on tomorrow. After talking and negotiating for a while with the people running the lodges here we just had to accept that stories sometimes repeat themselves and like in Laurebina Yak on Day 5 every single room had already been taken leaving us with no other option than to move on.
A board attached to the Hotel Ganesh View Lodge informed us that walking up to Sherpagaon would take us 2 hours and hopefully there would be space for us there. I was more than happy not to be spending the night in the somewhat cramped and busy Renche, looking forward to explore a new place and a new area.
We left Renche 2400 m. at 3.10 pm moving up on a small and somewhat exposed trail soon getting a nice open overview, a far better option than walking on the main forest covered trail at the bottom of the valley.
Sherpagaon 2563 m. appeared sooner than what I had expected and at 4.10 pm
we arrived at the excellent Tibet Guesthouse perched on a open terraced hillside brilliantly illuminated by the fine evening sun. A big single room with attached bathroom was only 300 Npr, dal baht 450 Npr and a bottle of mineral water 220 Npr. With only 3 other guests here this day and the wonderful and scenic location high above the valley floor, coming up to Sherpagaon was one of the best decisions we made this day :-)
Day 11 : Sherpagaon 2563 m. via Kyangjim 2280 m. , Briddhim 2229 m. , Lingling 1737 m.- Timure 1762 m. 6h45m Adding the lesser known and lesser travelled Tamang Heritage Trail with the Helambu and Langtang Treks is not only a great way of extending your walking for a few days but also a fine chance of getting different mountain perspectives in this beautiful part of Nepal while observing the strong Tamang life and culture along the way. The route certainly involves some fairly long uphill-and downhill walking, but with all the small villages and settlements appearing on frequent intervals as you walk it is easy to make a stop for tired legs.
Despite yesterdays long
8 hour walk down from Kyanjin Gompa my legs felt almost equally as good as the brilliant weather sweeping over Sherpagaon this morning in what promised to be yet another fine day of hiking in the hills towering above the Langtang Khola and Bhote Koshi Nadi rivers.
We left Sherpagaon 2563 m. at 8 pm walking on a decent trail getting some fine views across the Langtang Valley and the village of Thulo Syabru 2260 m. perched on to the long green hillside coming down from Laurebina and Sing Gompa. Looking at the steep gradient of the hillside I felt quite pleased to already have finished that part of the trek.
At 9.30 am we reached todays best and most prominent viewpoint getting a superb overview of the fabulous Ganesh Himal Range, Syabrubesi at the very bottom of the valley and the delicate winding road linking the village with Gotlang some 15 km higher up in the mountains. Accompanied by my porter-guide and a very enthusiastic traveller and dedicated 50 mm lens amatuer photographer from South Africa this certainly was a worthy place to spend some time admiring the wonderful surroundings.
It did not take long before
we reached the Kyangjim Village 2280m. ( 10.15 am ) which offered excellent views across the Bhote Koshi Valley to both Thuman 2338 m. and Naghtali 3165 where we would go tomorrow. The village had a fine selection of lodges/guesthouses but none of them seemed very busy. There is a trail turn off leading to Syabrubesi from here.
We continued steadily on the main trail traversing the hillside heading into forested areas giving some protection from the heating sun. At 11.00 am Briddhim suddenly appeared through the trees down below us but it still took us another 20 minutes to reach what is perhaps the most famous village on the whole Tamang Heritage Trek located on a "flatter" part of the hillside at 2229 meters.
The village consists of more than 400 houses and there are plenty of homestays ( about 25 according ot the villagers ) to choose from. We sat down at the very friendly Smile Guesthouse enjoying a good lunch on the nice,open and sunny lawn while overlooking the fine views across the valley to Thuman and beyond.
From Briddhim ( we left at 12.45 pm ) the trail descended quite steeply in places
through terraced fields and scattered houses passing through the small settlement of Lingling 1737 m. at 1.45 pm before eventually reaching the dusty car road connecting Syabrubesi with the Tibetan border at the bottom of the Bhoti Koshi Valley ten minutes later. This recently built and chinese funded 17 km road linking Syabrubesi with the Tibetan border, runs alongside the old trading route between Tibet and Nepal which for centuries used to be the only thoroughfare between the two countries in these remote places. Now big trucks and noisy cars have replaced mules and hard human labour to move goods and business up and down the valley.
It took us one hour of dusty and uneventful road walking to reach Timure 1762 m. ( 14.45 pm ) our last and final stop this afternoon. We checked in at the Zambhala Guesthouse a few yards outside of the main village. Dal bhat was 330 Npr and a bottle of mineral water 100 Npr.
Day 12 : Timure 1762 m. via Thuman 2338 m. - Nagthali 3165 m. 7h25m Before taking on the long and tiring climb all the way from Timure to Nagthali we decided to
spend the early morning hours walking up to the Nepal-China border just to see how that looked like. I must admit that I did not expect very much from this short sightseeing detour but being so close I would only regret later if I did not check it out.
With some intimidating vertical rockfall prone mountains on both sides and the Bhote Koshi River rumbling just down to our the left, the the dusty road walk to the border did not trigger the same excitement as on my previous few days. When we reached the barbed wire fence at the Resuo Bridge marking the Nepal-China line 45 minutes later, my thoughts were already hours well ahead on Thuman, Nagthali and what those two places would bring. Except from a huge chinese border building built bigger and stronger than anything else around here and the countries military patroling their area there was pretty much nothing to else to see and we only spent a couple of minutes before returning back to Timure for breakfast.
Since I did not really know what the facilites would be like in the upcoming hours and days I decided to stock up on a
few items at the small convenient store in Timure on the way back, to make sure I had some energy reserves in my backpack in case I would run dry at some point. Chocolate and buiscuits are always very handy when your legs and body are approaching a power outlet on the steep never-ending hillsides.
We left Timure 1762 m. at 8.10 am walking down the vehicle road for about 10-15 minutes before turning right at a construction site crossing the Bhote Koshi River on a bridge and heading up through the hillside on a tiny almost unrecognisable trail. Coming up from the valley floor involved some steep and hard work on a desolate hillside where houses and people were far and few between and with lots of tiny side-trails running here and there route finding might initialy be a bit challenging up here.
The somewhat energy consuming trail did not ease until we started to get a glimpse of Thuman Village at around 10.15 pm, perched on the long terraced hillside a long way in front of us. Wheat, millet, barley, rice, potatoes, radishes, and greens are some of the things they grow on these picturesque slopes.
We eventually reached the tibetan influenced village of Thuman 2338 m. at 11 am. With some fine views in the lovely sunshine across the valley to Briddhim and beyond we sat down for lunch at the Namaste Lodge & Hotel resting our legs a bit before the last and final push up to Nagthali. Veg.fried macaroni was 300 Npr.
Leaving Thuman we had to register at a police checkpoint before taking on the continous climb that would bring us almost 1000 altitude meters higher at the barren plateau known as Nagthali. The walk itself was enjoyable and was made even more entertaining when I suddenly spotted a deer running at full speed down the hillside hiding behind some trees just down below me. A group of french hikers along with their porters and guides descending were just about the only people we encountered on our way up breaking the delicate silence in a forested area just before Nagthali.
About 2 hours after leaving Thuman we eventually emerged at the wonderful open space of Nagthali 3165 m., the highest point on the Tamang Heritage Trail. Offering great panorama mountain views in almost every direction this place certainly rates
among the best on the whole Tamang Circuit. As you turn your head around you will see the magnificient Langtang peaks, the white capped Gosainkunda peaks, the amazing Ganesh Himal range, the nearby Pokalde Peak in addition to a range of mountain tops inside of Tibet. In my opinion the Ganesh Himal looked particularly impressive ( especially at sunrise ).
There are some 3-5 guesthouses in Nagthali and we were the only guests staying at The Nagthali Great Wall Hotel & Lodge. A big single room with excellent views was 400 Npr and Dal baht 470 Npr.
Day 13 : Nagthali 3165 m. - Tatopani 2607 m. 1h20m & side-trip to Taruche 3600 m. When I went to bed last night my guesthouse was so quiet I could only hear the tiny quirks from the wooden structure of the house, thinking that this would be a good nights sleep. That was until I suddenly woke up in the middle of the night to the sound of lively people talking, laughing and cheering downstairs. Raksi was on the table and our guesthouse had become the "party" venue for all the hard working porters and staff from
around :-)
Next time I woke up it was all very quiet again. Outside a crystal clear morning sky was already embracing Nagthali and all the big mountains and hills around us. With a walk up to the excellent Taruche viewpoint first on the agenda this morning I was quickly out of my sleeping bag and ready to go.
We left our guesthouse in Nagthali at 6 am. Looking through my tele camera lens I could spot some prayer flags marking the Taruche viewpoint and from our position it did not look too far away, maybe 2-3 hour maximum depending on pace and the number of breaks along the way.
From the open spaces of Nagthali the easy-to-follow trail quickly entered a nearby forest where the elusive red panda can be spotted if you are very, very lucky. After climbing nicely and gently for a while we reached a ridge where some of the area had been struck by a wildfire at some point in time opening up some fine views in the north-western direction. A long way down there at the bottom I could see Tatopani and lifting my camera up a little bit I had
some superb sunrise views of the beautiful Ganesh Himal Range represented by Ganesh III, Ganesh V and Ganesh I.
As we proceeded further and higher the terrain opened up completely allowing uninterrupted views back down to Nagthali and the snow capped Gosainkunda range coloured by the early orange sunrise. Conditions looked absolutely perfect for those coming over the Laurebina Pass this morning :-)
We eventually reached the prayer flags marking the Taruche viewpoint at 7.15 am. Some people have referred to this place as being the Tamang Heritage Trail version of Poon Hill on the Annapurna Circuit and it is easy to understand why. This large open area dotted with prayer flags and rhododendron flowers is almost equally impressive in terms of captivating mountains and sublime views. Whereas Poon Hill gets a bit congested with hundreds of people gathering to watch the sunrise, this place receives only a very few. This morning I saw less than a handful of people up here and I am pretty sure they were just as impressed by the magnificent surroundings as I was.
Looking around me I could see the monumental figures of Ganesh II, Ganesh III, Ganesh V, Ganesh I.
Moving my eyes in the north-eastern direction I could see a range of mountains in Tibet with the prolific Kangbu 7230 m. & Gang Beng Chen 7281 standing out the most. And of course there were the Langtang-and Gosainkunda Ranges as well completing the fine set-up of snowcapped surroundings. The Taruche viewpoint is highly recommended !
On the return back down to Nagthali I met a group of fellow countrymen on their way up very enthusiastic about their walk and the breathtaking surroundings. After chatting with them for some time we all agreed that visiting Nepal had been an amazing adventure so far even though the steep and relentless hills and climbs had taken a lot of effort.
We were back at our gusthouse in Nagthali at 9 am having breakfast in the lovely sunshine before continuing ( 10.15 am ) on the short downhill walk to Tatopani. Reaching the edge of Nagthali there were some excellent views across the Chilime Khola Valley to Goljung- surrounded by some picturesque terraced fields, Rongga Bhanjyang- the small pass/settlement between Gotlang and Syabrubesi and the winding road linking these places climbing up from the valley floor.
It took us 1h20
m to reach Tatopani 2607 m. , a small village perched on to a hillside being most famous for its "healing" hot springs. Locals believe that the taking a dip into the hot, murky water helps healing pain and aches which makes Tatopani a popular destination for many Nepalis seeking a relief from their discomforts. With more than 10 hotels and lodges centered around the three pools I guess business is quite good up here. There are at least 50 hot water springs in Nepal, with the most famous one near the Nepal-China border at Kodari. There are also Tatopani ( = Hot Spring ) on the early stages of Manaslu Circuit and between Jomsom and Ghorepani on the Annapurna Circuit.
We checked in at the SoluKhumbu Lodge, went up to spend an hour in the brownish hot shallow water before retreating back to our nice lodge and dining hall chatting, playing cards and just waiting out time.
Day 14 : Tatopani 2607 m. - Gotlang 2238 m. 4h50m A light drizzle throughout the night had been replaced by dry weather when we left Tatopani 2607 m. at 8 am on a day which basically
would involve only one long descent followed by a nice and gentle ascent to the picturesque village of Gotlang.
It was quite a scenic walk coming down from Tatopani as the well laid out trail literally cut through the nepali middle hill everyday life with some fine valley views ahead. I was a bit surprised to see the high number of people coming up in the opposite direction and according to my porter-guide many of them were nepali people carrying some kind of discomfort hoping to get their problems solved in the "healing" hot-water in Tatopani,
The last part of the downhill trail felt steeper and a bit more knee-consuming than the inital stage but it was still nothing special compared to some the other descents we had made so far on this trek. Overlooking the area I could now see the buildings at Chilime 1762 m. and the Chilime Khola River running through the valley. A precarious looking winding road climbing up from the valley floor on what seemed like an "impossible" vertical hillside ( new road to Tatopani ? ) suggested that modern vehicles and transportation have reached even these remote, intricate areas linking small villages
and settlements with the "rest of the world".
We eventually reach the bottom of the valley at 9.30 am, had to cross the Cilime Khola River 1762 m. on a suspension bridge before walking a short ditance down to to Nyingma Guesthouse where we decided to have a small lunch. This place even had their own menu and a lovely sunny terrace. Mineral water was 90 Npr.
We were back at our feet again at 10.45 am. From Chilime it was a 2 hour walk to Gotlang. The first few minutes took us through some scenic agricultural fields where everybody seemed to be out working this morning, followed by a gradual climb on the left side of the valley which soon put us in eye contact with Gotlang, nestled among endless terraced fields on a broad hillside.
My definition of hard and honest work gained a completely new dimension as we drew closer to Gotlang and met this local woman carrying a massive load on her shoulders 3 times bigger than herself making my own backpack look like a pushpin in comparison. For me this woman really symbolized the strength, will and determination of the incredible people
in Nepal living in the remote and poor parts of this country. This woman will probably never earn any glittering Nobel Peace Prizes or receive any fancy news headlines , but for me she is the true example to follow.
We eventually reached the scenic collection of old traditional houses which forms Gotlang 2238 m. at 12.50 and checked in at the nice and friendly Pokalde Peak Guesthouse perched just above the main village overlooking its wooden rooftops.
During the Janai Purnima Festival thousands of pilgrims come through this area to visit the holy Parvati Kund Lake located above the village but today the Gotlang area was quiet and peaceful with the only notable noise coming from the few motortbikes plying the dirt road which links the village with Syabrubesi. In the evening we were lucky to witness Langtang Himal in superb full moon atmosphere marking the end of another fine day of walking.
Day 15 : Gotlang 2238 m. - Syabrubesi 1503 m. 2h25m This travel tale was supposed to involve a few more days and chapters but a bad tooth infection which had developed over the last few days forced me to
return back to Kathmandu instead of continuing on my pre-planned walk to Somdang - Tipling - Boring - Dharka Phedi - Katunje ending in Dhading Besi.
Instead of one more week of walking adventures I was now heading for a dentist chair in the capital.
We made a speedy return on the 15 km leg to Syabrubesi starting very early in the morning from Gotlang hoping to catch one of the cars from there going to Kathamndu. We left our guesthouse at 6.55 am , followed the dirt road as far as Rongga Bhangyang 2187 m ( 8.25 am ). From where the long and somewhat tedious downhill walk to Syabrubesi starts. Manouvering down taking all the short-cuts available we eventually reached Syabrubesi 1503 m. at the bottom of the valley at 9.20 am.
A bit restless to get my painful tooth on the treatment table I was more than happy to pay 8500 Npr for a private car taking me directly to Kathmandu ( 6 hour drive ). Compared to the dentist bill I had to pay later that evening this was just pocket money anyway :-)
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Sanjog Shrestha
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would you know the name of that taller Peak ? thank you
would you know the name of that taller Peak ? thank you