I wouldn't call Nepal weird exactly, but there are one or two things about it that are awfully strange. I mean like, where else can you actually encounter – nay, bask in the radiant splendor of – a living goddess? Which is what we did on a visit to Kathmandu a couple of Saturdays ago (we being my university colleague Dave Penrose, his wife Cecilia, and I). Saturday is to Nepal what Sunday is to the Christian west, a religious day off when the shops are closed and people have a chance to kick back. For our part, we rented a car and driver and took a tour of the city. First stop, the nation's premier heritage site, Durbar Square or rather, what's left of it. A collection of more than forty temples and monuments, the
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