Day 337 - Farmers for the night

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Ever since we went to the Earls Court “Destinations Travel Fair” in 2005, when we found out where the country actually is, we have been very keen to get to Bhutan and that was our destination today. We were two of about half a dozen passengers boarding the Delhi to Paro, Bhutan flight when it stopped briefly in Kathmandu so we weren’t holding out much hope for getting the recommended left side window seat. Things turned out better than expected as the plane was nowhere near full so we did get the seats we wanted and, given the clear blue sky had an unforgettable (and surprisingly close) fly pass view of Mount Everest. Even the landing approach was memorable and the way the plane weaved its way through the valleys was unlike anything else we have experienced - almost like a fighter jet's style low level sortie. Our first impressions upon landing were immediately favorable with all the Bhutanese in traditional dress and even the airport control tower had been constructed in a sympathetically traditional style. One thing that did get our attention was a big cardboard box going around the baggage carousel addressed to none other than Her Majesty the Queen (of Bhutan of course).

We met up with our guide and driver for the next six days and headed for a wander around the village-like city of Paro. Visiting Bhutan is a little strange since in order to benefit from the tourist dollar whilst avoiding having the country overrun, every tourist pays at least US$200 per day although this does cover pretty much everything.

Paro is by no means Bhutan’s best feature but after Kathmandu and China it’s bylaw banning cycling made it an oasis of calm for us. Dominating Paro from the hill side is an enormous Dzong (fortress) which the invading Tibetans never managed to conquer. These days it serves as an administrative centre and monastery, but it is hard not to imagine what an invading general must have thought when he first saw it.

We drove around the Paro valley and visited a castle that was destroyed by fire in the 1950’s and which reminded us very much of Scotland. It was kind of ironic that in battle it successfully fended off invading armies but ultimately succumbed to a fire caused by a humble butter lamp. We also visited a monastery which was most notable for being one of 108 monasteries that one very diligent King built in a single day. It is also home to an auspicious orange tree that produces fruit all year round.

Finally we were welcomed into our home for the night - a working farmhouse. Even though the price we pay includes high quality hotels we thought we’d get a richer and certainly more different experience by staying in a farmhouse home-stay. And sharing it with 6 cows. It really was excellent, no bathroom as such but they did sort us out with an incredible traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath. Plus the food was delicious, there's nothing like a home cooked meal, including asparagus that could almost have been grown in England. Being farming folk for a day we thought we would take advantage of this lifestyle's main perk and went to bed soon after sunset.

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