Krazy Kathmandu and the monkeys of the Monkey Temple

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9 Jan - reluctantly say farewell to Pokhara with another early departure in case of any roadblocks. Thankfully, there's none this time. Half the group takes the small coach and the other half fly. Due to backpacker budget constraints, I'm on the coach. It's a great drive though through terraced farming land of the Terai and Kathmandu Valley. This 200km stretch from Pokhara to Kathmandu is the main road and therefore fairly busy. It's full of the now familiar site of brightly coloured trucks with slogans such as "Horn Please" and "See You", honking away and blasting out choking fumes while they chug up the narrow, winding hillside roads...you eventually learn to switch off when you pass a truck or bus lying overturned in the ditch, lol.

Kathmandu, wow! It's like a mythical destination that I just never expected to visit. It is a HUGE city surrounded by mountains on all sides. Yet more manic traffic and congestion. We reach Fuji Hotel about 1pm. Quick snack in the sunny, hotel courtyard then meet up for the orientation walk through the city. We meander through the Old Town with its narrow streets, old wooden houses with ornate balconies and peculiar, almost hidden shops and workshops at ground level which are dark and dingy due to the lack of sunlight and power (hobbit-like as described in the LP is a v accurate description!). There seems to be a temple every time you turn a corner, large, small, simple, ornate, some Hindu and some Buddhist. There's also lots of colourful fruit and veg sellers, as well as spice, nut and grain stalls.

Head to Swayambhunath - the Monkey Temple. It is the most ancient and enigmatic of the holy shrines in the Kathmandu Valley. It has a stunning white dome, glittering golden spire, iconic Buddha eyes and prayer wheels right round the stupa. There are also stunning views of the city and the valley below as well as the numerous, cheeky monkeys which give it it's name. We circumambulate clockwise, spinning the prayer wheels and offering prayers to Buddha in true Buddhist fashion.

Time for the last supper with the group. We head to Koto, a Japanese restaurant. Again, not Bhup's choice as he's never had sushi before but by the end of the meal he admits it's very tasty and he's pleased to have tried sushi! Have a wonderful meal of salmon sushi (divine!), veg sushi and avocado rolls accompanied by some Jacobs Creek Shiraz, heaven! Dallas makes a thank you speech to Bhup for being an excellent guide and presents him with our collection including a great caricature of Bhup drawn by Michiel. Bhup gives us each a lovely wooden carved elephant key ring from Jaipur and is so overcome with emotion, he starts crying, what a big softy! Have a few rum and cokes with some of the group back at the hotel then say our farewells to those that are flying home tomorrow. However, there's quite a few staying on which is reassuring. It's going to be difficult saying goodbye to Bhup tomorrow...

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Photos

The Buddha eyes of the Monkey Temple
"Om Mani Padme Hum"