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Published: October 30th 2013
Tengboche
You can just see Everest in the middle, poking up behind the other mountainsHi again everyone 😊 Well...this blog is all about the Everest Base Camp trek...yep! We did it!!! HOORAAAAY!!!!! The blog will have a slightly different format to the others...we wrote a bit of a diary as we went just noting down altitudes, where we walked, where we stayed etc etc. So the plan for this blog is to document our walk day by day....really just so we have a record of what we did! So feel free to skip the details and move straight to the pictures....and there are LOTS of pictures! We have some absolutely amazing photos which really do not do the Himalayas justice at all, but we have narrowed them down to oh, only 70 or so (!!) for your viewing pleasure. A few minor details first though...we actually decided to use a trekking company to hire a guide in the end rather than doing it ourselves as was the original plan, as Ben and I had both been sick so we just wanted a bit of additional support if we needed it. We went with Nepal Hiking Team in the end and what a good decision that was! It is owned by two ex-guides, one of which
is Hari who was so helpful and really went above and beyond to accommodate us and to make our experience everything we wanted it to be, including amending the pricing as appropriate as we wanted to carry our own gear (go us – Ben=16kg and Sarah=12kg!). Our guide was Arjun who also helped make our journey one to remember...plus he managed to get us up AND back down in one piece! And before we move onto the day by day deets we also just wanted to say what fantastic people we met along the way! Carole, Gaetan, Jodi and Annise just happened to be on the same trekking schedule as us so we kept running into each other (or they were stalking us...not sure which) which made for some fun times in the lodges and some future plans to meet in Africa for safari! (Carole and Gaetan – we are holding you to that!!). Okay folks, well that is it for the preliminaries – enjoy!
Day 1
False start
Well...day one should have been us flying to Lukla to start our trek...but due to bad weather we didn’t make it!! After a few
hours wait at the airport (which has a chaos all of its own, let me tell you – thank God for Arjun) we finally boarded a flight to Lukla...we were on our way! Or so we thought... About 10 minutes away from landing in Lukla the airport closed due to bad weather, so we diverted to a hilltop with a rough dirt runway with overgrown grass that apparently no one had ever been to before...everyone’s guides were looking slightly confused along with all the trekkers! We picked up another passenger there and the pilots decided to wait it out for a bit to see if Lukla would re-open. But nope, half hour later, we returned to Kathmandu!
Day 1
Take two
We got to the airport early to get the first flight available, as the weather tends to close in in the afternoon. Because of where Lukla is located, the pilots need to be able to see the runway/airport to land or else it is too dangerous. Cloud is not your friend while flying in the Himalayas...as I read in a book while we were trekking, you don’t want to fly through clouds
in Nepal “because the clouds have rocks in them”. After a few hours wait we were again loaded onto a little twin prop light plane, and 35 minutes later we landed in Lukla! Over to Ben for the details...
From: Lukla, 2850m
To: Phakding, 2610m
Trekking: 3 hours
Lodge: Hotel Beer Garden
It felt great to finally start the trek so our excitement levels were high as we walked out from Lukla. It was overcast with a tiny bit of rain, so we couldn’t see much above 4000m. We descended slightly on the stone trail passing through our first mountain villages. There were lots of other trekkers about so we could see that we wouldn’t have much of the trail to ourselves. The trail moved quickly into a valley as we passed a few lodges crowded together along either side of the path. It was mostly flat with some undulating sections, slightly up, slightly down with an overall descent of just over 200m to Phakding. We combated the first of many suspension bridges to cross some deep gorges over the Dudh Kosi River which we were following along the valley, trying
to avoid catastrophe while sharing the bridge with donkeys, porters and zopkios (a cross breed between yaks and buffalo which are used as pack animals at lower altitudes as yaks are only found above 3500m). We passed through a village called Ghat before arriving at our first lodge, the Hotel Beer Garden. The lodge was very comfortable and we had a private room with ensuite overlooking the valley. We settled in with luxurious comforts including a hot shower and blankets and enjoyed our first dal bhat for dinner – a very popular dish amongst the locals which is in effect never ending and will be refilled until full satisfaction is reached.
Day 2
From: Phakding, 2610m
To: Namche Bazaar, 3400m
Trekking: 6 hours (times include lunch)
Lodge: The Nest
We woke for an early start and following our tasty set ‘simple’ breakfast (eggs, toast, potatoes and coffee) we hit the trail. We started along the river slightly up until a suspension bridge took us to the other side. We crossed back and forwards a few more times along the ‘Nepalese flat’ trail (up and down, up and down) until we
Lukla - ready to begin!
Looking all fresh and stuff... reached a village called Jorsalle. We had lunch at a very cosy place called the Nirvana Lodge filled with German trekkers. We noticed that they had kaiserschmarrn on the menu, which made sense, so we promised ourselves that we’d indulge on the way back.
After lunch we continued along and slightly up to another suspension bridge crossing high above a river some 100m below, the trick was to look ahead and not down at your feet. It also would have helped if Arjun hadn’t told us moments before crossing it that the old bridge (which was suspended below) had collapsed last year. There was a steep climb up from here for a few hours, the sweat literally drenched our clothes. En route we reached the first viewpoint for Everest only to be presented with cloud... and no view. In fact as we ascended it started to rain and just got heavier and heavier. By the time we reached a checkpoint it was raining pretty steadily... and we had a 45 minute wait outside the checkpoint while Arjun was dealing with the authorities... and we were getting cold very quickly. In the end we agreed to continue without our guide
Lukla
Porters carrying thier loads to Namche, which we discovered was only 10 minutes away after all the time wasted waiting around and getting cold. As we arrived into Namche, a little girl ran up to Sarah asking for chocolate...she had no chance... clearly unaware she was approaching a chocoholic.
It was a long day but worth it arriving to Namche which is one of the largest villages in the Khumbu, if not the largest. Today we had passed loads of donkeys and zopkios on the trail which can be a bit tricky sometimes where there is nowhere to hide. We also passed plenty of porters carrying their ridiculously heavy loads. They move past you quickly with ease, sometimes texting or chatting on their phones or using them as music players. We even had the pleasure of hearing gangnum style from one porter as he walked by.
Day 3 – acclimatisation day
From: Namche, 3400m
To: Khumjung, 3900m and return
Trekking: 6 hours
Lodge: The Nest
It was a tough day yesterday, lots of up, so on this morning we were both feeling a bit wounded, with a few sore muscles. Rather than march
ahead on the trail we had our first acclimatisation day. This is where we ascend to a higher altitude and return to a lower attitude again to sleep, which allows our bodies' time to adjust to the oxygen starved air. So we trekked up to 3900m to a village called Khumjung for lunch and returned back to the same point via a circuit track. The weather was still overcast so we didn’t have a view of Everest just yet, or any other peaks for that matter. En route we visited a museum in Namche which had lots of interesting stuff about mountaineering and the mountains in general. High above Namche we passed a 5 star Japanese Hotel (the Everest View) which has a beautiful view of Everest (on a clear day). Whilst we were there a helicopter landed at their private helipad ferrying in guests and supplies, a regular scene on the trail. In Khumjung we came across the Edmund Hillary School which was founded by Sir Edmund Hillary in 1961. We also came across a monastery where for 100 rupees you see proof that a yeti actually exists. I think they (allegedly) have a scalp or a hand or
something...I can’t tell you as we declined to pay the fee. The trek back down became slippery due to rain which made the descent quite dangerous. Sarah and I both felt good on the day, no signs of altitude sickness. A good sign.
Day 4
From: Namche Bazaar, 3400m
To: Tengboche, 3860m
Trekking: 6 hours
Lodge: Tengboche Guest House
The clouds had broken and lifted to allow our first marginal views of big mountains. Although far from perfect weather it was a nice little precursor for what was to come – the weather was due to improve very soon. Our trek to Tengboche took us along a spectacular trail cut into the side of a mountain with deep valley and raging river looming below. We came across several eagles scanning for prey flying just above our heads which presented a nice distraction and a few quality photo opportunities. Our pleasantly flat and spectacular trail soon took a turn steeply down the valley to our stopping point for lunch, Phunke Tenga. Losing some valuable altitude is frustrating in the knowledge that what is lost must be gained again on the other
side of the valley. The sun appeared during lunch for the first time on our trek, feeling the intense heat the sun brings at this altitude felt amazing. Following an enjoyable lunch and rest we endured the steepest and hardest climb of the trek, 2 hours straight up to Tengboche. On arrival our guide wanted to take us a further 20 minutes to another village but Sarah had already dumped her bag and refused to walk any further! There was no talking her around.
Day 5
From: Tengboche, 3860m
To: Dingboche, 4400m
Trekking: 7 hours
Lodge: Sherpaland
In anticipation of the weather clearing we had set our alarms for 5.45am to try and catch the sunrise. Not that it mattered to Sarah who had only had 3 hours sleep... although the altitude was not affecting us too much in other ways, it was definitely interrupting our sleep. We were not disappointed when we walked out of our room as the skies had opened completely and without a cloud in sight, only enormous serrated mountains that surrounded us from every angle were in view. Also, we got our first sight of
the tallest and most famous mountain in the world, Everest, the top of which was in view as it soared above Nuptse (7861m). Closer to view and, for me, much more impressive was Ama Dablam at 6858m, a much steeper and more dramatic mountain to look at, also to climb as it requires technical ability. A famous Sherpa, Apa Sherpa, who has climbed Everest 21 times was asked by the Nepalese Government to climb Ama Dablam... he refused.
Our trek towards Dingboche held Everest in sight for quite a while until it dropped behind Nuptse. Our constant uninterrupted views of so many 7000m plus mountains along the way was very distracting, which resulted in the camera battery diminishing rapidly. We climbed gradually, stopping for lunch in Somara, until we reached our highest point of the day at 4400m. Both of us still felt good in the high altitude without any discomforts, only shortness of breath and a sluggish pace on the trail, which is normal.
Day 6 – acclimatisation day
From: Dingboche, 4400m
To: Pokalde (5806m peak), 5000m and return
Trekking: 5 hours
Lodge: Sherpaland
Our second acclimatisation day
saw us trekking up a steep mountain overlooking Dingboche. At this altitude we were now moving pretty slowly, but after 3 hours up we had reached 5000m. After taking a few photos and some time to admire the view we descended in 1 hour back to the village for some much needed rest. Sitting high above on this mountain we were looking back in the direction of where we had trekked from Lukla which gave us a different aspect and also brought into view some new peaks, including Makalu (8463m), Lhotse (8516m) and the back of Ama Dablam.
A few friends that we were trekking with were suffering from the altitude at this point. Headaches, nausea, loss of appetite and sleepless nights were the common theme. Most people seemed to be taking Diamox which is highly regarded as a preventative measure against high altitude sickness. We had decided not to take any but had it on hand should we start to have any problems. Sarah and I had both been to over 5000m previously in Ecuador without any major issues so we assumed that our bodies would cope. Although we had no coca leaves on hand, we were relying
on the tried and tested overload of garlic to help us with any altitude issues!
In the evening we went to the lodge where our new friends were staying to partake in some birthday celebrations for Annise, complete with chocolate cake. It was a slightly weird tasting cake but enjoyable all the same... especially as the entire lodge burst into song as the cake came out with a rousing rendition of happy birthday... and a noticeable low murmur at the part when you say the name as we were the only ones who knew it! We also took a note of our oxygen saturation here with a little device that Carole was carrying with her. Sarah was doing pretty well, with her oxygen saturation still in the high 80s even though we were at such a high altitude... her heart was working overtime though to pump that oxygen through her system with a resting heart rate of just over 100bpm.
Day 7
From: Dingboche, 4400m
To: Lobuche, 4950m
Trekking: 6 hours
Lodge: Mother Earth House
Onwards and upwards. We trekked on to Lobuche climbing gently up a wide open
valley. The terrain was pretty bleak, only a few shrubs survive at this altitude which share space with dirt and rock. Enormous boulders by the tonne fall away from the mountains forming large screes that are sometimes pushed by the glaciers, ever changing the landscape. We were however still surrounded by the ever present mountains, the majesty of which are indescribable.
We stopped for lunch at Thukla where there was only one lodge offering food and accommodation. There were no more permanent villages above this altitude, not on our trek anyway. After lunch we climbed over Thukla Pass, at the top of which was a memorial site for fallen climbers. This place really brought home the dangers of high altitude climbing and how vulnerable life is in the mountains. We came across some familiar names of climbers whom we have read about. Scott Fischer of Mountain Madness who succumbed to Everest in the well known 1996 disaster. Also Anatoli Boukreev, a highly regarded mountaineer who died in an avalanche whilst making a winter ascent of Annapurna 1. Along with numerous others.
After climbing some more we arrived to Lobuche which is only a small cluster of lodges. Here
we were almost at our highest altitude, trying to sleep was going to be interesting.
I found this day fairly easy, however Sarah was exhausted at the end.
Day 8
From: Lobuche, 4950m
To: Gorek shep, 5180m
Then: Gorek Shep to Everest Base Camp, 5364m and return
Trekking: 7.5 hours
Lodge: Snowland Inn (we think)
We awoke to another perfect day after some patchy sleeping. Our trek today would take us up towards Gorek Shep, another small outpost of lodging (which was actually the original base camp in the 1953 expedition), the last before EBC. Then onto EBC itself... it was our big day! The Khumbu Glacier soon came into view as we following alongside it to Gorek Shep. The terrain became rough as we were soon walking over large rock screes, up and down, up and down. The up was slow. Sarah was now moving at a snail’s pace, but still moving forwards which was key.
We dropped our bags at our lodge in Gorek Shep, consumed some food to replenish our energy, and moved on towards EBC. The trek was slow, mostly due to the
Phakding to Namche
I'm watching you... altitude, and seemed never-ending as we approached the top of the Khumbu Glacier and the Khumbu Icefall came into view. After a tough 2 hour slog, we had made it, Everest Base Camp at an altitude of 5364m, arriving on the 10
th of October at 1.03pm. We both felt elated at our accomplishment but also inspired to be at the site where so much history has been made, sharing with it so much tragedy. Sarah shed a tear (again... she also became emotional at our first sight of Everest) and I contemplated the moment and the special feeling of being at this place.
The actual site of EBC isn’t much to talk about, you are actually on the glacier but it is covered with rocks and boulders which hide the ice below. Constantly moving and changing you need to be careful where you place your feet! Our guide told us that the route to Base Camp across the glacier changes every year. At Base Camp there is a small cluster of rocks with a marker post and prayer flags attached. Apparently there was a large rock with some inscriptions that had fallen as the ice moved, consumed by the
Phakding to Namche
Himalayan traffic jam... glacier. There was one expedition at EBC making their assault on the mountain, which was identified by a few tents positioned away from the main site, it was pretty quiet though. Most expeditions attempt a summit bid in May. In 1996 which was a particularly busy season, there were almost 400 climbers at EBC.
After many photos, hugs, tears...and some schnapps, we descended back to Gorek Shep.
Day 9
From: Gorek Shep, 5180m
To:Kala Patthar, 5545m and return
Then: Gorek Shep to Pheriche, 4200m
Trekking: 7 hours
Lodge: Hotel Pumori Pheriche
After another patchy sleep, we woke at 4.30am to tackle Kala Patthar, a small peak amongst the giants at 5545m, but which provided an amazing view point for Everest, the Khumbu Glacier and many other peaks. We ventured outside into the cool morning air to follow the bobbing head torches up the steep climb ahead of us. After a big day previously, not much sleep, no breakfast and dealing with our highest altitude, the climb became gruellingly tough for us. Progress was slow, and lots of rests were needed. As the sun began to rise the dark
shadows of the mountains came into view, half way up Kala Patthar we already had an amazing, close up view of Everest. We continued up, slowly, slowly, until the summit came into view, marked by prayer flags. The distance wasn’t too great, but the effort required to complete it was. Finally, after more than 2 hours of climbing we had made it. Our reward was paid in full as the views to Everest were incredible, it was so close it was as if we could reach out and touch it. Not quite though, as it still stood 3500m above us and quite a distance away.
Whilst on top we witnessed another avalanche on a close by mountain, similar to what we experienced the day before. The roar of the avalanche hits you hard whilst you rapidly scan the mountains for the telltale white cloud of snow.
We took loads of photos, celebrated some more and then descended back to Gorek Shep for breakfast, before powering down to Pheriche. On the way down we came across a yak train carrying their loads (and huge full blooded yaks at this altitude, not zopkios), a typical sight... this time however one
had started to lose its load and went completely crazy, bucking and scooting off the trail. We all took cover behind the rocks as the yak drivers attempted to calm it down – ironically by throwing rocks at it! I was now even more determined to get out of their way as they went past and from now on hid myself in bushes or found a high point as soon as a yak train came into view that would need to get by me.
Another big day. Sarah utterly exhausted at the end, but to celebrate our success, two big long days and coming down in altitude to a more comfortable environment, we finally had our first drink of the trek – Everest beer. Thoroughly enjoyed!
Day 10
From: Pheriche, 4200m
To: Namche Bazaar, 3400m
Trekking: 9 hours
Lodge: The Nest
Today was going to be another big one. Linking what was two days trekking on the way up, into just one day on the way down. However, at this altitude the progress you make descending is far greater than ascending. The day started with a rather gentle descent,
Namche to Khumjung
...get out of my way! only a bit of up and down, before descending steeply down from Tengboche into the valley... and up the other side again! A typical experience on the trek, and one that happened a few times this day, was being hit by a foul smell whilst walking along, head down, one foot in front of the other... and then a porter would pass you carrying a wicker basket full of raw meat to somewhere further up on the trail. A big turn off from even contemplating a meat dish on this trek! Although this was a long day with some tough sections, it was a welcome change to the constant climbing in altitude on the way up. The only discomfort for me was my pack which was now causing a bit of pain from the weight on my shoulders. Arriving in Namche, which is like arriving at the capital city of the Khumbu valley, was a huge relief. There is a reasonably large village population here along with numerous lodges, cafes, restaurants and shops selling different trinkets – there is even an Irish pub, which was not a total surprise (there is one everywhere after all), where we again celebrated our
Namche to Khumjung
A view of Everest? accomplishments, the return to richer air and our lodge comforts and luxuries... with more Everest beer and some popcorn.
Day 11
From: Namche Bazaar, 3400m
To: Lukla, 2850m
Trekking: 8 hours
Lodge: The Nest Lukla
We woke with a dull hangover but were content in the knowledge that our wounded legs would be taking a mostly downwards trek again for our last day of the walk. Our flight was scheduled early the next morning from Lukla. Bad weather had arrived in Namche so we were happy to be moving down, it didn’t bode well for our flight though.
After a steep and painful descent we arrived back to the Nirvana Lodge where we had previously made a promise to return for kaiserschmarrn. Sarah was very happy. It was only 10.30am in the morning and we had only eaten breakfast a couple of hours before, but it was still amazing. Our trek now took us along the river crossing back and forth until we reached our lunch stop, Phakding, where we had spent our first night on the way up. A yak cheese toastie was quickly consumed and thoroughly enjoyed
by us both (this was a favourite and a staple on the trek) and we also enjoyed the shelter from the rain which was now quite heavy. After lunch, we continued along the valley slightly up, continuously, towards Lukla. By now, we were ready to finish the trek, the body was sore, the rain was heavy... but a few hours and a long uphill section stood between us and the finish line. We finally arrived in Lukla, another small city like village, where there is even a faux Starbucks! We celebrated, took the token photo and retreated to the comfort of our lodge and a hot shower.
In the evening, we were surrounded by a fresh and vibrant group of people all chatting away very excitedly in anticipation and eager to start their trek. Sarah and I, along with a few other trekkers, at the other end of the adventure, completely exhausted, after at least 11 days hard slog, were mute. In bed by 8pm.
Day 12
Stuck in Lukla
The bad weather continued overnight with heavy cloud and rain, although we still prepared our luggage and awoke early for our flight...we
Namche to Khumjung
At the Everest View Hotel were never convinced of our flight actually eventuating but we checked in to follow due process and then hoped for the weather to clear. We played lots of cards and probably ate more food than we should have. Our predicament was frustrating but after the news of deaths on Everest from an avalanche the previous day we were soon thankful to be out of harm’s way, leisurely waiting for our flight, in comfort, which would eventually run when the airport re-opened. We were in no rush.
So the weather didn’t ease and no flights were scheduled. Stuck in Lukla for the day. After a hearty lunch we ventured down to grab a coffee in the faux Starbucks, we were really impressed with their branding and talent for imitation... but the coffee was a huge disappointment. We’ll have to wait for the real thing. Some trekking buddies, Gaetan and Carole finished their trek and arrived at our lodge, which provided us with great company and entertainment for the rest of the day and evening. We managed to empty the red wine stocks and run up a reasonable tab on beer, baileys and various other drinks as well. A proper celebration
Namche to Khumjung
The Edmund Hillary School was had by all... we even received a tika, a flower and some rupees (symbolising long life, good health and wealth) and some rum (symbolising party time) from our lodge manager in the festive spirit of the Hindu Dishain festival which was also being celebrated.
Day 13
Back to Kathmandu
Our flight was rescheduled for the following day in the afternoon, so there was more time to eat, chat, play cards and relax in the comforts of our lodge. We woke to heavy cloud still but the weather was forecast to clear around midday, which it did. The flights started to arrive from Kathmandu, a hugely entertaining sight in its own right as our lodge overlooked the runway. We kept busy playing cards whilst observing the flights coming in and out, counting them as they went. We were told that our flight was the 18
th in line and probably unlikely to be fit in that day. We were still hopeful however of scoring a free helicopter ride back to Kathmandu – there was a dangerously sick client (due to altitude) from our trekking company that needed evacuation from Gorek Shep, but in the
Namche to Khumjung
View of Namche from above last couple of days more than one metre of snow had fallen and heavy cloud and snow were preventing any rescue. They had already attempted three times to land a helicopter there, he must have been in pretty bad shape. So we continued to wait, either for word of the helicopter or our flight, and were about to order a round of Everest beers when we were summoned to the airport... we quickly departed saying our goodbyes and within 30 minutes were screaming off down the runway. Our flight back was rough, due to heavy cloud, although we did get one more final peak of Everest soaring above the clouds, this time its size more evident than before.
Note:
Panoramas in order of appearance are:
View from Tengboche
View from Pokalde
View from Kala Patthar (Everest is behind the other mountains just left of centre)
View from Kala Patthar looking down the valley
On Kala Patthar...me and the mountains
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