Inspirational Everest

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Wow! It's been a month since I arrived. Nothing like being sick in bed to get me moving on my blogs. (It's now been three months!)

What an amazing month it has been! Of course I expected nothing less from one of the friendliest countries in this wonderful world of ours. I haven't seen all that much yet, and I typically don't like to judge a country until I feel I really know it. However so far, Nepal is amazing. It has shown me incredible landscapes, hectic cities, beautiful people, a very colourful festival and a wonderful culture. So far I've enjoyed every part of my time in this small, culture rich, people dense, very poor country. There have been times when I've gasped at what lies in front of me; purely out of shock, sometimes out of sadness and so for each one of these instances I have to remind myself that these people know no different. This is normal life to them. The rubbish that is filling up their rivers is 'normal', the smell wafting from the drains; overflowing with litter and sewage, is 'normal', the 3 year old children crossing a four, sometimes five 'lane' street is normal. So for every gasp at poverty and every giggle at the craziness of it all I have to remember that if they saw how we lived they would probably gasp and laugh at all the order and rules. It is only when I travel that I see that it is absolutely possible to lead a happy life in the utmost poverty, in the most dangerous of cities, in the harshest of environments. This is all they know, this is life at it's best. As a part of the human race we need to remember that, we need to be grateful with what we've got. Because what we've got is a hell of a lot more than most people in this world of ours and you don't hear them complaining.

On my first evening I met up with some others who said they'd all booked/planned to leave the following day, and I was devastated. They all seemed really nice and yet I'd arrived a day too late to trek with them. There's no way I would have been able to get organised in one day. Never mind. There's plenty of other fish in the sea. So I went looking for a trekking office the next day, in the right area, and thankfully found one without too much of a hassle. He offered me tea and seemed to be thorough, which is always a good sign.

Unless you're booking from home it's really just pot luck which guide you get. The company can't really do anything more than offer you a guide. The lodges are all of pretty equal quality and the food just the same, obviously there's some lodges that will be closer to $6 a night rather than the $1 I was paying but really, it's a bed, in the mountains, in Nepal, how much better can yours be than mine? So I decided to pay for my own accomodation and food as I went, rather than pay for an all inclusive tour, which was a hot tip from another traveller. It did turn out to be cheaper, probably by $100 but then again I'm not a huge eater so I wasn't spending all that much on food. Insert eating biscuits and vegemite for lunch here.

After about an hour of 'soft sell' talk (he definitely wasn't as pushy as others I'd met) which included showing me past recommendations, postcards from past clients, photos from the 80's and the last months worth of trekking permit forms, I booked. I knew that I couldn't be bothered sitting through this again with another company so I bit the bullet, something I find very challenging when travelling, making that final decision. However it can also the greatest thing about travelling solo, it doesn't matter how long it takes you to decide because you're not putting anyone else out but yourself.

So I had booked, tomorrow I was to depart Kathmandu for 17 days trekking up to Gokyo Lakes, across Cho La Pass and to Mt Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar, nothing like getting on with things!

When I returned to the hostel via motorbike, with a rented down sleeping bag and jacket in hand (a thrilling experience, especially at night) I was more than pleased to see that the gang that was supposed to depart on their trek had returned. Unfortunately for them no flights left Kathmandu that day, and luckily for me I had some great friends to hang out with.

The following day Akesh had told us there was a planned strike, something about the new government, or petrol. Regardless there would be no cars running in the whole of Kathmandu and if there were they'd be stoned, or something along those lines. We were told we'd have to be in a taxi before 6am to avoid any unwanted trouble. My guide Arjun met me at the hostel and together with Pablo, Ryan, Richard, Vera and Josh, we went to the airport. It was all very eerie at 5 in the morning with riot police and groups of people lining the streets (reminded me of Lake Titicaca border crossing a few years back) We were stopped a few times but thankfully let through, arriving at the airport in one piece, only to wait. I wasn't feeling very lucky, after hearing people had been waiting for two days to leave but surprisingly we left about two hours after excpected departure time and we were in safely in Lukla by 10am. The flight was slightly turbulant, a very small plane with (as expected) no safety demonstration, no time for that. It's clip in and take off and after about 35minutes you're landing in the middle of snow capped mountains on a 25meter run way with a brick wall in front of you, nothing unusual at all!

After sitting around for about an hour, watching planes land and take off (which is quite the spectacle) we started. Most people had moved off straight away and we'd stopped for lunch, but I wasn't interested in eating, I just wanted to get going, so with very itchy feet I un-packed and re-arranged my bag a. out of boredom, b. out of efficiency c. out of a need (O.C.D?!!) Most people had their normal backpacks, about 70-80litres, but I know from experience that whatever space I have, I fill. So I decided to buy another pack. One other thing I also know about myself is that I make terrible decisions when I'm rushed. Purchasing this bag was no exception. Arjun had come with me, apparently to assist with a 'good price' but of course he or the boss probably knew the owner, and he wasn't very helpful at all. In the back of my head was the realisation that I should have splurged and bought the beautiful Macpac I found in Melbourne, the other was that I'd already spent $40 on a bag for the plane at home, and here I was to about to buy another one. I also knew that I didn't like it the second I bought it, and about 10minutes after purchasing it I knew that I'd buy another. So thoughts again returned to that amazing pack, sitting in the Macpac store in Melbourne, calling my name. Of course everything is for sale here. From gloves to beanies, trekking poles to sleeping bags, down jackets, you name it, whatever you need they'll have it. It's all labelled as Northface, Deuter, Mammut, but we all know it's not. They all claim it's 'gortex' but we are smarter than that. Long story half cut short, I purchased a bag that I wasn't happy with, that didn't fit half of my stuff. Don't get me wrong, the bags are fine, for what they are. Don't expect much and they'll do the job. It's just mine was literally a backpack so the support was non existent. But if you need to buy a pack, do it, they're fine. Jut think about the size you need first! Whilst it meant I took minimal belongings and ensured I was trekking in a lot more comfort than most girls who were carrying 12kg, it was frustrating. It had no support and was the start of many grumpy mornings as I struggled to pack.

So here I was, trying to re arrange said pack before we'd even started. A big thanks to Ryan for the occy strap! This pack is probably smaller than the average school bag and as mentioned failed to fit my sleeping bag (thanks Arjun for carrying it) and my down jacket, so Ryan loaned me a good reliable occy strap to tie it onto my pack. Winner. In the end it all works out. N.B. said pack has now been left behind in Kathmandu. I hope it found a new home!

The trekking had officially started, but not for long. After two hours we'd arrived at our first destination, a village called Phakding and it hadn't even been 'that' hard. I asked if we could keep going but he assured me everyone stays here on the first night. Note to self Hannah; you're paying for your guide, he's done this more times than you, just relax and listen.

Today was an eye opener, not for the beautiful scenery and the simplicity of the airport but for the sheer power and stregth of the local people. I saw numerous young men carrying two or three solid wooden doors on their backs, with a strap around their heads (the traditional way to carry goods in Nepal) women carrying baskets full of anything from cabbages to bricks, water to gas bottles, and not just on a flat road. Up giant hills, on gravel, over rocks, up slate steps. Not something for the fainthearted. But this is everyday life. They know no different. And there isn't another option. There are no roads from Lukla up to Base camp/Gokyo. There is only one tiny airport near Namche, that sometimes delivers cargo. Everything and I mean everything; alcohol, bedding, meat, goods, beds, tables, chairs, packaged food, MUST be bought up by man and or mule/yak. But mostly it's taken by man. It's almost incomprehensible though, the amount, the sheer capacity of goods they carry at any one time. It's crazy and perfectly efficient.

So I was shown to my room as soon as we arrived at about 2.30pm, which turned out to be pretty standard the whole way along the trek. Usually two beds, but sometimes I was given a room with just one. Nice enough, generally clean, all with at least one blanket or in my case two, lucky me. For some reason I was always placed next to the toilet...does Arjun know something about my weak bladder?!! Which was a good thing when I needed to go, but not so good when the walls were so thin the smell of armonia felt like it was seeping through.

The afternoon was then spent consuming hot chocolates and tea, writing in my journal and filling my mind with random thoughts. I did meet some lovely people that night, two of special mention; Sarah and Steve from England, a couple I spent quite some time with over the coming week. I miss you guys! I ordered my first true Nepali meal: steamed vegetable momo's (very similar to dumplings, but better) and plain rice, delicious.

**Trip tip: purchase your mars bars and snickers in Kathmandu. I paid 50 and 60Rs respectively for mine before the trip started, Namche aside, you'll end up paying 90-120 Rs for one! It's not much more but every little bit counts. I also bought some plain savory biscuits and of course with my tube of vegemite in tow, had a delicious snack/light lunch sorted for most of the trip, genious?! I think so!

As what soon became routine I was well and truly ready for bed by 8pm, especially considering it had been raining and gloomy all afternoon and that tomorrow was going to be an early start. Nothing like a good night's sleep.

Now I've decided I won't bore either of us with details of each and every day because a. it's boring b. I've already written it in my journal and c. I can't be bothered re-writing it. So i'll share the best parts; that's always fun!

Day two was tough. Like seriously. Especially after our more than cruisy two hour 'hike' on Day one. We hiked for five and a half hours and the last two of that was literally only incline. My legs were burning and my hips were aching, chest heaving and sweat dripping. I looked like Grandad Yetman shuffling along, one small step after the other, and whilst I may have looked silly, I told myself it was just a series of small steps, one after the other for two hours. Every time I cursed and thought I'd rather be anywhere but where I was, I would hear a porter spitting/hoiking (urrghh that sound!) or hear them heaving and when I looked over and realised they were climbing the same hill, in sandals, with about 80kg on their backs I sucked it up. It may have been then and only then, for a brief moment that my shuffles became real steps.

When I ran into the Turtle crew I was re energised. How lovely it was to talk to people and what a great distraction. I walked with Richard, Pablo and Tom for a while before stopping for some Jimi Hendrix inspiration and some vegemite biscuits. I decided not to stop for lunch and I'm so glad I didn't. People were eating big lunches and then having to hike two/three hours uphill, no thanks. The boys were hiking much faster than me so I encouraged them to continue whilst I slogged it out physically and mentally. It is definitely all mental. Yes It's physical, obviously, but if you're not in the right frame of mind it's going to be a much bigger challenge. From years of sport, including many where I wasn't in the right frame of mind, I knew I had to switch on and focus. Haha it sounds so serious, it was and it wasn't, but I also wasn't keen on fighting with myself to keep going. Whilst this is going on in my head, my legs were still moving and before I knew it we were at the final checkpoint and I could see Namche Bazaar our destination for night two! What a great feeling, although as always, it appeared much closer than it was and the last half an hour was almost the hardest. There's something to do with being able to see the finish but just not feeling like you're able to get there...

Richard, Pablo and Tom followed me to my guest house, which for some reason Arjun didn't seem that happy with. I was thankful I had my friends close by for a cold night in because after all it's the people that surround you that make your experiences memorable and as Alexander Supertramp said "experiences are only real when shared".

Upon reflection there were some beautiful views on day two. We crossed over numerous raging ice blue rivers and on and over swaying cable bridges. We climbed up huge slate steps and down gravel decents. Today we ascended 850m, so it was no wonder I was a little 'head-achey' and more obvious why my legs were aching. Insert proud feeling of achievement here.

After downing some yummy soup and tea (staples in the mountains) I went to explore Namche Bazaar. Namche isn't a huge village, but it's one of the biggest ones en route to Everest. It has just about everything you need and is pretty much Thamel on a tiny scale. There are internet cafes, at least ten trekking shops, souvenier shops of course, numerous cafes and bakery's, three or four pubs, yes there's even a real Irish pub, but where isn't there. There are convienient stores that sell everything from batteries to books and there are two ATMs. Namche is your last chance to get money out on the trek, and being a smart traveller I did. However the maximum is 10,000RS or one hundred dollars, and maybe in one of my not so wise moments I only withdrew once, having not even considered withdrawing twice! As you'll find out I ran out of money. Blonde much?!

So Namche was to be our first rest day. Considering we'd gained 850m and were now sitting at 3440m, it was wise to wait and acclimatise. So on day 3 we hiked up to Everest Hotel, a Japanese inspired hotel sitting smack bang on top of a mountain with un disturbed views of Everest, pretty epic. So after another straight up the side of a mountain, feet vertical kind of hike that took about an hour, we were able to appreciate that exact undisturbed view of the magestic Mt Everest. My first sighting! And it did not disappoint. Whilst we were quite a ways from it, it was out of this world to see such a sight and on my birthday, happy birthday to me! I sat with Steve and Sarah, Chrissy and Tom and Ben and Emily (the english couples) for about half an hour, sipping on our rather expensive hot chocolate's, admiring the serenity. We then moved off on our way to Khumjung, a small village where the Sir Edmund Hillary School and Hospital are situated. Through mud, ice and snow we made our way down. Now whilst going down is always great, in Nepal it's never great, because in your head you know what goes down will most definitely come un necessarily up again, and this was in no way an exception. Khumjung was beautiful. A desolate looking little town but in it's most natural state. Sitting in a small valley in between huge snow capped mountains and with a glimpse of Everest. A town without any tourists. How refreshing. We wandered past the school where I was treated to a game of kick to kick (with an old milk tin of course) with a small local boy of about 4. We kicked the tin back and forth until he realised I wasn't quite grasping the game (well in my defense I was trying but kicking a tin so that it consistently rolls on it's side isn't as easy as it sounds and for some reason it just kept landing on its end) so he picked up the tin and ran away. We continued walking through the town, how lovely to just wander, before beginning the ascent. See I told you I'd have to go back up! Once again I got my grandad shuffle on and began walking up the hill and for the next forty or so minutes we only passed a few porters. How beautiful it was to appreciate the mountains in their natural state, quiet and peaceful. Once at the top I was greeted to one last view of her majesty, ahhhh! We walked passed Shyangboche Airport which was literally a tiny strip of grass and a few horses before making our final descent back into Namche.

Upon arrival back at the hostel I treated myself to a birthday afternoon nap before waking up and chowing down on some more momo's, this time not so great, but still edible. This was all but made up for when Pablo and Richard surprised me with a piece of chocolate cake, complete with a happy birthday sign and a candle. To top it off they came in singing, bless them! Thanks guys!

I met vera and Ryan 'downtown' and they convinced me to buy an NCELL sim card; well thank goodness for people in the know becaues it's the best thing I've purchased since being here and for only $5 you can et 500mb which has only just run out, for $10 you get 1gb and 1gb free, so 2gb for ten bucs! pretty handy indeed, who needs wi-fi?! Oh and it works just about everywhere. Love a good bargain.

After a delicious fried rice at the guest house (the deal on the trek is where you stay, you eat.) So room rates are generally the same, between 100-200Rs and they make their money off your eating habits.

I gathered the troops; Ryan, Martin, Vera, Pablo and Richard and we made our way to a pub for birthday beers and free popcorn. How blessed I am to have already met such wonderful people, people I can happily call friends. How lucky am I to be able to say that on my 26th birthday I was trekking to Base camp, saw Mt Everest for the first time, ate a real piece of chocolate cake, complete with candle, had fun people sing happy birthday to me and shared an Everest beer with friends?! Ahhhh pretty lucky! To top things off I left my 'mark' on the table at the pub and changed into a new pair of undies as a present to myself. What a day.

My trip was fantastic. Every day there were breathtaking views in which to cast my eyes. There were always awakening sounds and smells and sights. It was in every way a growth experience; not only because of the people I met, the villages I passed and the culture I got a sense of but for the mental and physical challenge. There were days when it wasn't all that hard. But there were definitely days when I almost wanted to give up. After walking to the top of Gokyo Ri I wrote in my journal, and I quote "At times your body wants to stop because your mind is telling you that you're incapable. In the next breath you see the top, the finish line, and you push yourself beyond your limits- beyond the pain in your guts and your banging head. You push because experience tells you that it will all be worth it."



By the time we reached Phortse Thanga by day 4, I couldn't say i was keen for Gokyo. All we had heard were stories about people not being able to hike Gokyo Ri, about the knee deep snow and the people having to turn around. Oh there was also much discussion about how freezing it was. Nevertheless we woke up early and continued on our way to Gokyo. My worst fears came true, it was a horrible day. The weather was closing in really fast and by about 9 we had very little visibility. After stopping for a cup of tea Arjun said we had only 40minutes to go, unfortunately for us we lucked out. We had a complete white out and lost our way. Lost our way! Insert mini freak out here. Imagine this; it's freezing cold, your jacket is done up to cover your face but still the snow gets in, when it hits your face it stings. Your guide is trudging along ahead of you, wearing barely any warm clothes. Your shoes are wet, your trousers dripping, because for the last hour you've been walking through calf deep snow. There's no one else around you. It's just you and your mute guide. The visibility has become less and less but even though you can't see a foot in front of you, you know you're going up. Your legs are burning. The burning never stops. Suddenly your guide stops. Looks around. Turns around again. You can tell instantly that something is wrong. There's a look that he's given me as he's scanned past my face, a look of desperation. He's lost. I knew straight away. He doesn't know where we are. He doesn't know where we are!! After circling for a few moments he finally admits that he's "not sure" where we are. That "it's very difficult to see the trails when there's so much snow". He thinks we've taken a wrong turn and points back to the direction we've just come from. You're kidding me. 40 minutes has now turned into an hour. He's gone back to check for some sign of a trail, a footprint, an indent. Meanwhile, I'm sourcing good boulders to seek cover behind. My action plan flashes through my head. If we have to sleep out here I need shelter. I have water. What will I use for warmth when my jacket gets wet. I snap out of it and call him over. I tell him to follow his gut. "Which way did you first think was right?" I ask desperately and he points to the direction we were headed, well "let's go" I shout. After about ten minutes I hear the comforting sound of snow crunching, footsteps. People. We're heading in the right direction. A sigh of relief, so big you'd wonder what was going on. 10minutes later we were at the lodge. The craziest thing is we were so close, yet we couldn't see a trail, couldn't see around us. No landmarks, no visible sign. You hear of these stories but you never think you'll experience it. Now I'm not saying it was an emergency, but it was a snippit into the lives of those brave mountaineers up on Everest. The fear of not knowing where you are. Ahhhh I had a hot chocolate and some 'chips' to celebrate my arrival!

The next day was tough, but not so much physically, just mentally. Fresh snow is good, it's not slippery like ice. But the trouble can be, not being able to see the boulders underneath, and boulders and cliff edges don't mix. But we made it. About 4 hours later, to the beautiful frozen lakes of Gokyo. No they weren't turquoise, but beautiful just the same. We enjoyed a well earned relax on the couch (I may or may not have dozed off and left behind a dribble patch on the pillow) and some questionable dahl bhat.

After probably one of the worst night's sleep yet I woke up at 3.45am. By 4.15 we were off. Head torches on. Down jacket, gloves, check. Thermals, oh yes. Ater the first few minutes I went arse up. Black ice I tell you, it's everywhere and it's dangerous and I may or may not have cursed quite loudly, not the best start to the day.

In the dark hours of the morning I was lucky enough to be hiking with the lovely Steve and Sarah and our guides. We climbed to the top of Gokyo Ri in just over two and a half hours, pretty impressive. But thank god for darkness. The best thing about climbing in the dark is the fact that you can't see how far you have to go. Had I done it during daylight hours I may have given up. Once the sun started to peak over the mountains it became clear how far I had to go and I couldn't believe it, it just kept coming, and regardless of ten minutes passing you still didn't feel any closer. It was the pure magic of the gradual rise of the sun that kept me going. From pitch black, to a lighter gray. Before long I could see the sillhouettes of the mountains, a seriously beautiful moment and soon I started to see the light coming, slowly, gradually. However, by far the best moment is when the suns' rays start to peak and spread from behind the mountains, lighting everything up like a torch. It's moments like these, with only four people around me, that you have to pinch yourself. You're 5,357m above sea level, you have Mt Everest in view and 360degree views of picturesque snow capped mountains. Mountains some people will never be lucky enough to see. It was this moment that gave me the guts to get up that mountain. Nothing was stopping me now. Regardless of the dhal bhat from last night still trying to settle, I grunted and I moaned and I shuffled and I made it to the top of Gokyo Ri. I made it and when I got up there it was all worth it. The views, photos just cannot do justice, words definitely cannot. But it was those few moments that I was sitting there alone atop a boulder, on the top of a mountain watching the sun creep up from behind Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world, that I thanked my lucky stars for everything up until that moment in time. Sometimes we take life too seriously. We complain about trivial things. We talk about people in a far from kind manner and we, at times take days for granted. It's moments like these I realise and I promise myself to make the very best of every opportunity that comes my way. To embrace it with open arms. Everything you partake in can be a lesson; good or bad, it can change you for the better. Experience makes you wiser and stronger, it can make you more passionate and more considerate. This experience has taught me that I'm one of the luckiest people in the world to be able sit in that position and have those thoughts. To be able to see the mountain of positive things in my life. This is why I travel.

This amazing crescendo was just that, for it was only the beginning of a very long day. After returning to pack and down breakfast, we were off again. Not only were we competing with the effects of the last few days of bad weather but with distance. Today we were attempting to get back down to Phortse Thanga. It was indeed a challenge and today more of a mental challenge. Because we were mostly going down, today physically wasn't going to be as tough. However, having to concentrate on every single footstep you take, takes its toll. It's tiring, concentrating for so long. It's tiring having to do this for over 7 and a half hours of down, and not just down on a straight, flat, smooth road, oh no, we were descending through snow, ice, mud and dust. After a few very close calls we made it back. I had walked and slipped through mud for over two hours, through ice for one and down slippery slate steps for goodness knows how long, but I made it. A little weary, yes. Covered in mud, yes. Aching and sweaty, unfortunately yes. But I had made it to P.T (our new nickname!). After some quick washing of my boots and pants I had an early dinner and gladly retired to bed. I've never been so appreciative of a rock hard pillow and thin mattress before, but it was one of my best nights sleep yet; especially after my two hours in Gokyo, anything longer than 5 will be a blessing.

The following morning I got up raring to go. I knew today was going to be a relatively easy day so not surprisingly I was pumped! Steve ended up getting sick so it was the last I'd see of my newlywed couple, yes they're on their honeymoon!!

There was a bit of up today but it was nothing in comparison to yesterday, so quite pleasant, especially considering I got to make some new friends! A brother and sister of about 5years old accompanied us up to Phortse to their school. Oh how gorgeous they were. After three hours we made it to Pangboche. I visited one of the oldest monasteries in the region, over 600years old. A very interesting ten minutes was spent inside with the caretaker, before walking a couple of kms to lower Pangboche, 3,930m where we stayed the night.

The following day we were off to Dingboche. In a brilliant time of two hours (all this sleep was doing me wonders) we made it. I was thankful to get going, after having some terrible Diamox related nightmares (rachel and larni were murdered!!) I wanted to pre occupy myself with hiking. So after a mars bar and cup of tea we were off to hike up to the top of Nangkartshang Gompa. It was much further than I thought. After starting strong (it was the strongest I'd felt in days) I was confident I'd make it to the top in an hour, ahhh wrong. After 1hr 50minutes I made it. Grumpy because Arjun had left me to hike alone whilst he ran to the top to make a phone call and then when I was only 15minutes from the top wanted to know if I wanted to go back, ahh no! I'm not that keen on walking, of course I want to see the top. Breathe. Deep Breaths. I thoroughly enjoyed my time 'alone' hiking up to what turned out to be an amazing viewpoint.

By the time I got up there, the clouds had moved in and it was freezing. Unbeknownst to me my gloves were in my bag, so I freezed my little fingers off and attempted to get some photos and appreciate the view; a pretty spectacular view too if you ask me!

That afternoon I washed my hair. It snowed about 30minutes later. No wonder my hands were cold. I was determined not to shower but my hair was freaking me out. It was that dirty it had become itchy, so something had to be done. Silly me decided to do it half an hour before a snow storm. But i felt a million bucs. My sleep was quite wonderful, two mattresses and two blankets, slept like a baby.

The next day we hiked to Labouche, a nice hike for the first part before an intense hill leading up to the memorials for all those who've passed away hiking this trail and Everest, quite eerie if you ask me. We arrived in the village after a pretty intense icy section on the side of a pretty steep cliff, thank goodness for the pole (thanks Rich!). I ran into Daniel, the German from Lukla. It was nice to have some good company again. Slept ok, thankfully as it was a 7am departure time this morning. We were off to Gorakshep, then Base Camp, so a fairly big day.

I was down to my last 4000Rs. There was no way that would get me back to Namche, so I knew I'd have to borrow money, but I was trying my best to make it stretch. The only problem was the food was almost doubling in price. For a standard dhal bhat you would now be paying 600Rs, sometimes more, which was ridiculous considering you can usually pay 250-300rs for a good one in Kathmandu! I can't blame them I guess, they're smart enough to know we don't have any other option and need to eat, so they can charge what they like.



SO here I am, trying to cut costs; eating soup and plain rice to make money stretch. I wake up and as usual ask Arjun for some cold water (there's no basins up here, so no running water anywhere). He came out with a big silver bowl of warm water. Ahhh how lovely. Warm water to wash my face, how thoughtful (it was a very cold morning, so I just thought they were being considerate) so I'm washing my face and feeling wonderful. I go to pay my bill and I see hot washing water- 150Rs! They charged me for the hot water that I didn't ask for! Of course they did. Of course it costs money. Everything around here does. It was safe to say I was more than a little bit grumpy, for if I had of known it was costing me $2 I would have washed my whole body. Gahhh!! Deep breaths. Deep breaths.

The hike to Gorakshep was fine. Two hours, of up and down but nothing to intense. There just so happened to be about two hundred yaks that we had to pass. You see the Everest Expeditions are starting soon, so everything was being carried in for them. Gasoline, water, packs, tents, you name it, the yaks and porters were carrying it. Good thing I like rock jumping because Arjun was determined to pass all of the yaks. Not as easy as it looks when the path isn't really a path and there's over two hundred coming in both directions. I saw quite a few familiar faces coming down which was nice. It always gives you a little bit of extra spirit to know that people have completed it and are still smiling! Onwards and upwards. We arrived in Gorakshep by 9.30, just in time to see a helicopter rescue. It was intense. I was walking down the last decent when a chopper came over my head, blowing snow and mud in every direction. There was a heli pad just above me that I hadn't yet seen with about 20people standing around. Horses and yaks started running away and locals had all gathered to watch. Two people were bundled in quickly before it took off again. Wow. This brings me to Alititude sickness, or AMS. SO many people that I'd met were either on their way down because of it or knew someone who had been 'hellied' out. I met a German couple who's friend was carried down to another village at 3am and hellied out, another group of Norwegians had to get 6 of the 18 in their group medivaced, crazy. I met people who had diamox with them but who didn't want to take it until they got the symptoms. But the problem with AMS is once you've got the symptoms you're in a lot of trouble. The scariest thing is, it's a life and death situation and there are so many people I met that were in denial about having it. It's just not worth it. It's your life and you're worried about not seeing a pile of rocks and telling people you made it to Base Camp. Ah, some people.

Once we arrived in Gorakshep I unpacked and repacked my bag with my camera and water, downed a mars bar and we were off. In just under two hours we made it to "Base Camp". Now base camp, for those that don't know, is literally a big pile of rocks with a sign and prayer flags everywhere. People have signed boulders and left flags and tshirts and other quirky offerings behind. The craziest thing is, you cannot see Mt Everest from Base camp! You can see Nuptse, 7864m, the mountain that the people on the expedition climb first to acclimatise, but no Everest. The actual 'base camp' where all the mountaineers camp in preparation was about 1km away. There were only about 5 or 6 tents set up (it's only the very beginning of the season). I wasn't interested in walking there as I'd heard stories of the people not wanting to speak to you anyway. Of course that makes sense, why, if you were preparing to climb the worlds highest mountain, would you want to speak to hundreds of tourists every day?! So I got my photos. I've been to Base Camp! and I made my way back to the lodge. Of course, you can see Everest enroute to E.B.C so don't be disheartened, but if the hike had of been 4hours, I don't know if it would have been worth it.

Up at 4am the following morning after playing cards with some fun Israelis and a average sleep. I spent most of the night wondering if it were time to wake up yet. Early to bed, early to rise, nothing unusual in these parts. This morning was freezing, like freezing. I had to wait for Arjun for 15minutes, I couldn't find my walking pole and had 'wind' pains again. Not the best start. But onwards and upwards! The hike wasn't easy and it wasn't hard. It wasn't as tough as Gokyo. The altitude was higher but the increase in altitude was less. Today we only increased a bit over 400m. From Gorakshep, 5140m to Kala Patthar, 5550m. The trouble you have breathing was the problem, especially with the morning air. Unfortunately Everest was cloudy. Of all days, it had to be today. But by about 6am the pink and orange clouds started to show and for a moment I thought it might clear. I sat down for about 15minutes and started to film sunrise (my ultimate goal) but it never really eventuated. The rays of sun started to peak from behind her majesty but it never really 'rose'. It was soooooo cold that I had to keep moving. Even with my two pairs of socks, I couldn't feel my feet and my fingers were numb, even my ears felt frozen so I kept moving. By now the darkness had dissapeared and it was almost full light. Which you guessed it, meant I could see exactly how far I had to go. Urghh the last part was the most difficult, because I thought at one stage that I was pretty much there, that in about 5minutes I would have reached the top. But in similar form to Gokyo it just kept coming, rock after rock, meter by meter. I was so thirsty but my water bottle had completely frozen so I couldn't get much from that. There was a big risk that my camera battery would to so I kept it tucked inside my down jacket, praying it would still be alive when I finally reached the top. At about 6.30, so two hours later, we arrived at the top of Kala Patthar, the highest point on the entire trip. Everest may have been cloudy but it didn't stop my elation at what I'd just accomplished! I may or may not have done a 'coooooeeeeeyyy' when I reached the prayer flags! Much to Arjun's disgust we stayed at the top for about 40minutes, it was probably too long considering the temperature, but I was determined to get one shot of Everest 'clear' before descending. I'd made it this far I might as well stick it out whilst I'm up here. Alex and Ryan arrived about 20minutes later and their guide kindly gave me some tea. It helped a tiny bit to warm me up but it was still freezing. I know I've used the word freezing a lot but I can't describe how cold it was in any other way. We were back down to the village by 8, ready for some warm, filling porridge with honey (my new breakfast of choice) before packing and departing by 9. I was on my way down. It was day 12 and I was making my way down, after hiking two peaks over 5,300m! What an accomplishment. I don't think I've ever been so proud. It was quite the moment. And now the decent was wonderful. You couldn't wipe the smile off my face. I felt sorry for the people coming up, because I was now 'that person' who couldn't stop smiling at them as they were struggling up the hills.

I couldn't believe how many people I met coming up, in comparison to a few days ago there were so many tourists. I think I would have passed about 200 coming up the steps to the memorial as I was on my way down. When I was going up it was literally Arjun and I and the yaks. What a difference a four days makes. Unfortunately after stopping for lunch in Thukla, the weather took a turn for the worst. Today was only the third time I'd worn my down jacket hiking, and the first time I'd worn it when I was hiking below 3,000m,it was cold. Sure enough, as per Arjun's predictions the skies opened up and it started snowing. So we stopped a town early and spent the night in Periche which may have been the worst decision yet. It was by far the coldest I'd been on the whole trip. There were only three people in the entire lodge, including me, so the fire was only turned on for two hours. Thankfully I met a lovely dutch couple to pass the many hours waiting in the lodge. He had become very sick from AMS and had wisely decided to come back down. His guide had encouraged him to sleep low and try to go up again in the morning, but his condition had worsened and he had begun to vomit so made the wise choice of going back to Lukla.

I had to ask for an extra, extra blanket, so I had three in total, my sleeping bag, thermals, two pairs of socks, a 'hot water bottle (my drink bottle filled with hot water and wrapped in my scarf, ingenious!) and my down jacket as a pillow. My sleeping bag was done up around my face, so I'm pretty sure if I could have seen myself that I would have looked like a mummy. I had an ok sleep considering the temperatures which would have easily been below -10 and it was such a luxury not to have to wake up before 7. It's the little things! Today was the 18th, day 13. I still had 5 days before I had to be in Lukla for my flight. So after talking to the dutch couple, decided I'd like to stay in Tengboche and visit the monastery. The walk was fine, great even. Again, made so much better by the fact I was going down. We arrived in Tengboche by 11.30, so just under three hours. The last 30minutes up an extremely icy hill tested out the nerves, but it was nothing compared to Gokyo so I sucked it up.

The lodge we stayed at was one of the best. The cleanest toilets, clean white sheets and good food. It had a nice patio out the side where I basked in the sun for about three hours, did you hear that, sun, I basked in the sun, and I wasn't cold. How lovely it was not to be cold.I spent about 20minutes mediatating with the monks, but was told to come back at 4pm for the next service. What an experience. For a bit over two hours I sat on the right hand side of the wall, the special place for tourists, with about 10 others, sat cross legged (not easy for long periods of time) and listened to the harmonious sounds of the monks humming, praying, chanting. I listened to the sounds of drums and symbols and horns. I smelt the wafts of inscence and tried to 'clear the mind'. I definitely had a few Julia Roberts, Eat, Pray, Love moments, the itchy knee, the aching legs, the itchy nose, the aching legs, my gosh were the legs aching. They were so sore in fact I had to un cross them and outstretch. Feeling like I'd failed I glanced at my watch and realised that I had in fact had them crossed for 1.5hours, so I think I had every reason to outstrech (insert proud moment here). Upon refelction the experience was fantastic. It was like nothing I'd ever seen before. The colours of the monastery, the monks perched up on their cushions, the orange and brown colours of their cloaks, their bald heads. To see them chant for ten minutes then in unison drink their tea, and then continue. It's all just so fascinating. About 15minutes before it finished the monks were 'fed'. They received prawn crackers, biscuits/crackers, a chocolate wafer, a big chunk of yak cheese, chapati and mentos, yes mentos! They were also handed money, I'm not sure what note it was, but I think most of them donate it to the monastery anyway. The higher ranked monks were served there's on a gold two tiered platter whilst the other were handed there's on a wooden board. Some ate there and then (I think this is their dinner!) whilst others continued chanting. Because we'd stuck it out, there were only about 5 tourists left, we were offered a choco fun wafer bar and some mentos, lucky us! The best part about this experience was that I got to the closest I've ever been to a 'medatitive state'. I think it was the gongs and chanting, just magical. Because it's not something that comes easily to me, gosh with my fast paced mind. Buddhism has always intrigued me though so I assume I was more willing to give. About 5minutes before it was all over we were shown a sign asking us to leave before the monks. SO at 6.10pm we walked out of there, all in awe.

Fried rice and egg for dinner whilst talking with two lovely Israeli guys (whom have become great friends!) Yes I'm talking about you Daniel and Asaf!

Today we walked from Tenboche to Namche. I hadn't been this way so had no idea what to expect and of course we walked down 'the wretched' hill everyone had moaned about, for about an hour. And yes in typical Nepali fashion we then walked up a very steep hill for about an hour. After that it was a very cruisy walk back to Namche, the whole way I walked with a big smile across my face. I would have easily passed over 300 people heading to Tenchboche and I couldn't believe it when they kept coming. Big groups of Japanese and Americans, English and Koreans. Thank goodness I'm coming down. We arrived back at the same lodge by 11.15, so three hours walking, just lovely!

Finally I could get some money out. I'd had to borrow 3000Rs off Arjun. I charged my phone, accecssed the internet, found out Nicole is having a baby!!! and enjoyed a delicious small loaf of dense brown bread with vegemite, ahhh. As a reward for all my hard work, I wasn't finished but knew it three days I would be, I went shopping! How lovely it was to be back in some civilisation. I purchased a ring and a lovely colourful 'cashmere' shawl/blanket, and it's devine, so warm. I figured out how to connect my NCELL internet, so had access on my phone, even better. I met up with Ryan and Alex, the Canadians from the lodge. We enjoyed a very tasty curry for dinner before heading to the Irish pub for pool and beer. We met up with some people I'd seen in Dingboche and enjoyed good Western conversations about stomach issues.

The next day was a nothing day really. We walked for four hours to Phakding but it wasn't hard and it wasn't easy. It was lovely to see flowers blossoming, now that we were below 3000m. We arrived in Phakding by 12, just in time for lunch. I thoroughly enjoyed listening to some music on my charged phone and catching up on some journal entries. The best part of my day was seeing some small children playing marbles and hopscotch. How wonderful it is to see children in a far away country playing the same games we grew up playing. It is a timely reminder that despite all the differences between the developing countries and the Western world, some things will remain the same in this world of ours.

On my 16th day, I woke up to very dark clouds. After hanging out with Daniel and Asaf last night and watching Miss Nepal I was keen to have a lie in and not leave too early in the morning. I knew that Lukla was only two hours away so didn't see the point in leaving at 7. I sweet talked Arjun and we didn't leave until 9. Had a nice chat and leisurely breakfast with the boys before starting our day. We arrived at 11, and just in time. The skies opened up and it started pouring rain, at one point it was even hailing. Before long I found out that no one had flown out of Lukla that day. The power went out everywhere and it was only 1pm. The lodge was dark and miserable. A nice canadian lady and her 11year old sun accompanied me to 'Starbucs' for some natural light in their sun room. They had no power but they served yummy hot chocolates with froth and yummy chocolate cake. I sat there for about 5 hours, writing in my journal, and drinking and eating my way through the afternoon. Twas lovely. The lovely dutch couple arrived, and Naomi and Claire, whom I'd met in Tengboche. By 4pm we had a nice little collection of people. The power came back on and I could charge my phone, for free!! We also got the tv turned on a watched a movie, luxury. I met an older Englishman who was to going to Summit Everest in three weeks time. I felt like I'd met someone famous. It was fantastic to talk to someone with so much experience and so many fabulous trekking stories/tragedies.

I returned to the lodge at 7, in time for dinner and games. I met a lovely couple; Pim and Wendy, and one of the funniest guys I know, Aidan from Ireland. We sat and played 'worms' a dutch game with dominoes (brilliant) before being kicked out and sent to bed. We were all going to be crossing out fingers and toes that we could fly tomorrow morning. Here's hoping the rain clears the bad weather.

As soon as I woke up I knew we would be flying. I opened the curtains and it was completely clear. Blue skies! Oh how lucky am I?! Whilst enjoying my breakfast and reflecting on my trip I was suddenly rushed by Arjun. He looked desperate to get me moving. Apparently they'd mixed up the times so we had to leave, like right now. Thankfully we made it in time. By 9am we'd left Lukla. My trip was almost over! 17days in the moutains. Over, done and dusted.

Upon reflection, this trip not only taught me about my physical and mental toughness, but it allowed me to appreciate the lives, culture and kindness of the people of this wonderful country. I not only experienced incredible sights but met amazing people and I will forever look back on this trip with a smile upon my face. An adventure like no other. An experience I'll never forget. My trip to see Mount Everest.

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Photos

lukla
the tiny runway at lukla airport, day 1

mt everest!
my first view of mt everest on my 26th birthday!!

happy 26th birthday to me!
with my yummy chocolate cake, complete with candle and drawing courtesy of pablo and richard! thanks guys!

winter wonderland
en route to Gokyo

good morning everest!
the beautiful sunrise from the top of gokyo ri over the majestic mt everest

hanging with mt everest
sitting at the top of gokyo ri

it's a yak!!
heading to basecamp with these dudes

sarah and steve!
happy honeymoon to the coolest couple on the trek, so glad I met you guys!

machermo
waking up to this winter wonderland in machermo

Arjun
my guide arjun

home
a typical guest house room, for $2 a night, not bad

views from gokyo ri
views from 5,357m

the only way is down
heading back down to gokyo

monastery
the 600year old monastery in pangboche

prayer flags
heading up to nangkartshang

down the valley
looking down the valley from nangkartshang to tengboche

rescue
there were about 5 of these in an hour, scary

Sunrise over Mt Everest
the cloudy mt everest from 5,545m at 5am

hanging with mt everest
the one day it was cloudy

buddhism
the detail on the gate of the tengboche monastery