Everest Base Camp Trek Diaries - Day 9


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February 10th 2010
Published: August 9th 2017
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Geo: 28.0914, 85.556

I woke around 5am and immediately looked outside to see if the weather was clear. I couldn't see much as the windows were frosted, so i waited till sunrise to see if the weather was clear. There was bright blue sky and we were all relieved and were definitely heading to Gorak Shep.
The whole landscape was covered in snow ranging from a couple of inches to probably 10 inches.
After breakfast we all got ready and excited.
The start of the trek is relatively flat, walking along the valley and the side of the Khumbu Glacier. As i thought, the snow made the landscape and the scenery more beautiful. We were originally told that it would take 2 1/2 hours to Gorak Shep, but it took us an hour more. The snow made it harder and slower and the second half to Gorak Shep is a series of up and down hills.
We started to get frustrated in how long it was taking. We were told that you "fall" downhill into Gorak Shep and every-time we climbed a hill we saw another hill we had to walk up and down.
Eventually we made it to Gorak Shep. Another small Village surrounded by mountains and glaciers, absolutely spectacular. This was the base camp for Sir Edmond Hillary's Everest summit.
Kala Pathar rises from the bottom of the Village and you see how far and steep you have to go to the top.
We got to our accommodation and ordered some lunch and set our bags in our rooms. I was especially glad to leave the bag behind for a day. Krishna kept trying to get us to go to Everest base camp but we thought we wouldn't have enough time as we were usually slower than most time predictions. So we opted for Kala Pathar.
The Danish couple we had run into a couple of times were heading to base camp, but were leaving an hour before we set off. So we pumped ourselves up for Kala Pathar.
We read and heard that it was only 2 hours to the top, but it took us three hours. It's a steep start but evens out a bit in the middle and then climbs steeply again. It was tough, through the fresh snow. We all found it hard going. Eventually Chelsey found it too much just before the top.
I had climbed a bit higher towards the top, maybe 50m away when i saw that the others weren't going to continue, so i climbed back down. It didn't matter cause even from halfway the views are spectacular and amazing. And you do get to see pretty much the same view of Everest as you would from the top.
You see the broad range of mountains in all directions as well as the Glacier feeding it's way through the valley into the distance. We were the first to climb Kala Pathar after the snow fall so we had to make our own path up and down. Sometimes finding ourselves almost in knee deep patches of snow. As i was going up i was getting a headache and even going down it persisted.
It was about 5:30pm when we got back, all exhausted, after all it had been a pretty long day. The Danish couple arrived 30 min later. Our boots and socks were all wet, so we circled the fire to dry everything off. I was lucky that Regan gave me waterproof pants which i wore over my only pair of pants which were jeans. By the end of the trek up Kala Pathar, the bottom 15cm of my jeans were frozen, so i had to dry them as they were my only pair.
We had climbed 600m in altitude throughout the day and once i had got back to Kala Pathar i had a bad headache and was feeling neusus which are the mild symptoms of altitude sickness. I ordered garlic soup but could hardly finish it.
After an hour of getting back, my headache was really bad. I didn't feel like moving and just wanted to close my eyes. I was expecting to get altitude sickness and had finally got it, but surprised it took so long.
Krishna was so helpful, like a mother, telling me to eat and putting my beanie on my head to keep me warm....haha.Eventually i popped a Diamox and headed to bed. It was about 7:30 and i was walking down the hallway to my room when i noticed rubbish buckets for all the rooms.
So i thought i would grab mine just in case. Sure enough as soon as i got into bed i vomited ( which later froze in the bucket during the night...haha...eww). I felt better afterward but still had a raging headache. I thought i was in for a sleepless and restless night but i fell straight asleep and ended sleeping 10hrs, only waking 3 or 4 times for the bathroom.
Yeah, it was a really bad headache but i don't think as bad as Radek's. I am still amazed with this trek, I still can't get over the scenery and experience. Even with limited preparation and countless mistakes i have still managed to have an amazing time and managed to get by. Next time i think i will prepare better, Eg. more money, medical supplies and common sense thinking.
So i am looking forward to reaching my goal and the furthermost point of the trek, Everest Base Camp.



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