After the dramas of the travel in the Russian van for the Ice Festival, I was relieved to step into a relatively new Hyundai 4WD van for the trip to the Gobi. It was clean, spacious and actually had some suspension! However, never count your apples! Just before starting the return journey to UB, Gans, our tour leader, asked the question, "What is a good Mongolian car?". The answer? "A new one!" Wise words. We did have a few difficulties on the way back. However, our driver was excellent at fixing anything which included making a spare part out of a syringe to keep us moving for a day and a half! On this trip were Gans (Steel Axe - literal translation of his Mongolian name, our leader), Agi (Golden Axe, our driver), Ramona (my German
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