Blogs from Gobi Desert, Mongolia, Asia - page 2

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Asia » Mongolia » Gobi Desert September 12th 2013

After Hustai National Park my plan was to go to the Ikh Nartiin Chuulu Nature Reserve east of Ulan Baatar. It has one of the highest populations of Pallas' cats so there's as good a chance there of seeing one as anywhere. It is also the Mongolian stronghold for argali. There are argali at Hustai as well, but when I was there I was told there were only six or seven of them in the park so I didn't try looking (apparently there are no ibex at Hustai either, despite it being on their checklist and website). There are two camps at Ikh Nart, one catering pretty much solely to Mongolians and Chinese, and the other run by Nomadic Journeys and catering mainly to Western tourists. Obviously the latter is the more expensive, but from what ... read more
scenery
Gobi sands
Argali (Ovis ammon)

Asia » Mongolia » Gobi Desert June 15th 2013

Over the course of the tour we planned to camp out about half the time and stay in gers the rest, but uncertain weather has meant more nights in gers than anticipated. At several places the family has had a spare ger especially for visitors/tourists. This usually means we get to sleep in beds. At others, though, we just sleep in the same ger as the family, in a row on the floor. Most families move their gers at least once a year, having a summer and winter site, and sometimes more frequently (land outside of cities belongs to the state and can be used freely). At one place we stayed, the family had only moved to the summer site the day before, and were still settling in. The gers have wooden frames covered in layers ... read more
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Fetching water from the well

Asia » Mongolia » Gobi Desert June 15th 2013

Food is included in our tour, so I don't have to worry about cooking anything, it arrives (literally) on a plate. The meals prepared by our tour guide are loosely based on Western food, but when we stay with nomadic families we eat whatever the family is eating, there is no choice. On arrival at a new family we are always welcomed into the family ger and offered tea and snacks from a bowl, usually sweets or a bread that looks like a doughnut but tastes drier and breadier, or a snack made from dried curds, which tastes of strong, salty cheese. The tea is milk from the family's herd which is heated in a large bowl first thing in the morning, salted and then kept in a Thermos flask for use throughout the day. It ... read more
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Asia » Mongolia » Gobi Desert June 13th 2013

Travelling in Mongolia is not easy. Many hours a day in a van, driving on difficult roads, only a short amount of time our in the open air, and not always a good night's sleep in a tent or ger. I am mostly philosophical about all of this and generally enjoying the adventure, but today was marked by a spectacular falling out between one of our party (the Italian) and our tour guide. The actual row was over (what seems to me) a petty matter and has been brewing over the past couple of days; I think the real reason is the stress of this kind of travel. It was strange and ridiculous, to be watching this heated argument in the middle of nowhere, where neither party has anywhere else to go or hope of escape ... read more

Asia » Mongolia » Gobi Desert October 7th 2012

Welcome to Mongolia The smell of cooking pork was slightly stronger than the stench of cigarette smoke when I woke at 9am. The rhythmic motion of the train was relaxing and I slept well all night. Chaos in the corridor this morning with an overnight influx of Mongolian tradesman I can only assume going to market. Within half an hour they were off the train and peace had returned. The commandant has a small area where she cooks for herself and any other passengers she likes. There is a large fridge freezer in her room and a sink with a good flow of water for her exclusive use! One of the cabins was stacked full of new ikea furniture (very dated black ash) all in the packaging on route I suspect to a Ger camp somewhere. ... read more
Village Life
Rolling Stock

Asia » Mongolia » Gobi Desert August 14th 2012

Day 4 We packed up and refilled the water container from the well in the settlement that was ringed by a tyre with a bucket made from a recycled tyre on the end of a rope with a ladle made of wood. As luck would have it a local man went to the well at the same time as us and showed us what the deal was. Water supplies in the desert are often communal, locals rock up with thier 20L containers on all manner of transport, motorbikes, trolleys, horses etc. Toilets in towns and settlements are often communal too, people can't have them in their homes/gers and there is no such thing as town plumbing. Men of course don't use them unless they have to. The young guy turned up in his jeep (the one ... read more
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Asia » Mongolia » Gobi Desert August 9th 2012

Day 1 Fully loaded we were glad the weather was good and it wasn't a far walk to the guesthouse where we were meeting our jeep and driver. We'd called in the day before and asked if we could extend the trip to 15 days as 14 would give us 4 days back in UB before our flight which is just too long, there isnt enough to see there and its not an exciting place to just hang out. It was no problem and we asked about the possibility of maybe making it 16 days, agin no problem we just had to tell the driver as he'd have a scheduled break after so wouldn't be heading straight out with someone else. Rush hour in UB is a daunting driving experience. We went past 2 accidents and ... read more
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Asia » Mongolia » Gobi Desert November 15th 2011

Today would see our tour end and we would return back to Ulaanbaatar. A relatively straight forward affair you would have thought, however not when your driver gets pulled over by the police and it turns out that he doesn't even have a driver's license. So our driver Jackie was escorted via police car to some town 30 minutes away. Whilst we all sat in the minivan by the roadside and waited it out, completely clueless as to how long this palaver was going to take. But you’re pretty much guaranteed if it's on Asian times then it's not going to be a quick five. A good one hour into the big wait and I was so bored that I couldn't even be bothered to read anymore, to bored to read. Jess was also reading, Karin ... read more
Roadside
bleep.

Asia » Mongolia » Gobi Desert September 29th 2011

La segunda parte de mi andadura por Mongolia fue igual o mejor que la primera. La dinámica es casi siempre la misma. Nos levantamos a las 8:30h. más o menos, nos traen el desayuno, recogemos los bártulos, montamos en la furgo y listos. Al final le pillas el tranquillo a los viajes “revienta-espaldas” en la furgoneta, pero cuesta lo suyo. De hecho, yo este día lo hice de copiloto porque no me apetecía pasar el mal rato de mareo que tuve el día anterior. Ahora estoy recordando cómo fue ese desplazamiento y la verdad es que el aspecto general del grupo daba un poco de lástima. La chica holandesa con una resaca del quince (naúseas, mareos…) a punto “morirsen”, uno de los franceses mareado perdido y un servidor que no le iba a la zaga… en ... read more
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Asia » Mongolia » Gobi Desert September 26th 2011

The only one who would have made it through the Gobi without the others would have been Ed. I was still not experienced enough to fix a puncture in a gippy. I would maybe have made it in some hours, but I will never find out. Guy would however have finished last unless he took a hitch ride in a dodgy desert truck all the way to the border. Guy never tried big trips on a bike before and he is a compulsive smoker. He bought a cheap, used bike in Attila store and tied his bag to the back of his bike with some bungee chords and just went out there in a shirt and some pants. Brave Guy. I was damn patient waiting for Guy, as he was falling off like a pear in ... read more




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