Monkeys watching Monkeys {Cath}


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Asia » Malaysia » Sabah » Kinabatangan
October 6th 2008
Published: October 21st 2008
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Getting there...



The lady at the Mt Kinabalu HQ has warned us that the bus to Sandakan would be full, and that we would probably have to bite the bullet and call a taxi. But with a taxi for the 5-hour trip costing around US$150, we figured we'd be taking our chances with the bus. We were also looking forward to getting some sleep on the trip after a 2am start up to the peak, a late flight into Borneo and an early bus to the mountain the night before, no sleep on the Ro-ro the night before that, all topped off with 2 day hiking.

It was pouring with rain as we waited under the small shelter for the bus headed for Sandakan, and after about half an hour of waiting, the bus came round the bend and we eagerly waved it down. The lady was right, the bus was packed, but that didn't seem to bother the driver one bit. He found Darrell a place on the isle above the top step, and for me he pulled down the spare chair above the steps. So much for sleeping! Now, here we were after waiting half an hour in the rain for the bus, squished in the isle and on a chair with no headrest and that left my feet dangling above the 2nd step!

Our driver managed to squeeze another 2 passengers on to the bus at the next stop, they sat on the steps. Other than that, the bus ride was mostly uneventful. About 3 hours into the 4 hour trip a couple of passengers got off, so I got a proper seat -although now I was too anxious about missing the stop that I couldn't sleep anyway! Finally, with half an hour to go, Darrell got a seat.

And then, before we knew it we were called for our stop (the driver has a list of the passengers and where their stop is, so he can call you if you fall asleep. That would have been good to know 😊 ). We were hurried off the bus, our bags were unloaded, and then the bus was off again, it's tail lights disappearing into the darkness.

We'd been dropped at a big traffic circle, our bags piled at our feet. Luckily one of the locals must have seen us looking somewhat bewildered and pointed us off in the right direction to Uncle Tans. Their website said that there was a B&B there, and seeing as it was where we'd have to get to in the morning, we thought 'why not?'.

The walk there was a little bit eerie. The road was surrounded by dense forest on either side, and there was little light on the road. My knees were still sore from the hike. It really felt like we were in the middle of nowhere, on our own adventure. As long as it seemed, I think the walk can't have been much longer than 500m, and boy was I relieved to see the 'Uncle Tan's' sign. This was followed by an equally large disappointment when we saw the 'Full House' sign on the front desk.

We called over the chap manning the front desk and asked if there was absolutely anything that we could use to sleep on, and he said that all the electricity was out (a tree had fallen over onto the power cables), and that was why they could not accept guests. We managed to convince him that we didn't need electricity - all we were going to
The feeding stationThe feeding stationThe feeding station

Long-tailed Macaques trying their luck
do was collapse on a bed and sleep, and that maybe in compensation for no power, he could give us a lower rate for the room. And he did! 😊 Yay!!

Boy did we sleep well that night!

Sepilok Orang-Utan Sanctuary



What wonders a full night's sleep can do! We woke up at Uncle Tan's B&B bright eyed and bushy tailed and ready to see an orang-utan or 2. Breakfast was great. Noodles, fried eggs, toast and viennas -Woohoo! 😊 There were 2 others going with Uncle Tan's that morning, so we all piled into the mini van for the short ride to the sanctuary.

The sanctuary is right on the edge of the protected rain forest, and they have several feeding platforms for the newly rehabilitated orang-utans. Visitors (us!! yay!!) are allowed to observe one of these feeding platforms. So, at 10, Darrell and I joined the steady flow of people to the boardwalk through the jungle and on to the viewing deck.

The jungle was fantastic! - although we'd pretty much ruled out any chance of seeing any animals with all the excited chatter going on around us (Yes, we were chatting too!)

About 20min before feeding time, the first orang-utan made it's appearance, much to the delight of all our cameras which immediately started clicking away. He was a bigger one, and he was swinging in from one of the ropes tied to the platform, around a few trees and into the jungle. He was followed shortly after by another 2 smaller orang-utans - the one getting comfortable on the ropes in his leg hammock. One leg was holding the rope in front of his shoulder, and the other just behind. And that was how he wanted to sit 😊

The last to arrive was a several months old mother and her baby clinging tightly to her chest. The baby, older that I originally thought, seemed to enjoy teasing the other 2 smaller orang-utans, and then disappearing back into the safety of her mother's arms.

The older, first to arrive, orang-utan was kept busy chasing away the cheeky long-tailed macaques.

Eventually! What they'd come for! Breakfast is served, and on the menu today... bananas and milk! Hot favourite! The orang-utans were now all fully focused on the food and getting their fill. The pestering Macaques would not give up a chance to steal away if they possibly could. They were all waiting on the edges of the platform, some even underneath waiting for any scraps to all through.

Once the orang-utans were satisfied, they moved on, and now started the real Battle-of-the-Banana! The macaques went wild, shoving as many of the left overs into their mouths as possible - completely filling their cheeks and chins.

Soon all the fuss died down and, as with the Macaques and orang-utans, we all trickled back to more familiar surroundings.

A short, informative video was shown and then Darrell and I took a quick walk through the start of the Birder's Walk. Unfortunately the gates were going to close for some reason or other, so we didn't have enough time to enjoy the full walk. Instead we found a fallen log and just sat and enjoyed the sounds around us. It was so peaceful.

And then it was time to head back to Uncle Tan's, where our next adventure was to begin.

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