Extreme Devotion: Thaipusam in Penang


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February 11th 2006
Published: March 14th 2006
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Thaipusam EssentialThaipusam EssentialThaipusam Essential

I have deemed this guy my Thaipusam poster-boy.

February 6th - 12th 2006



We have decided to try a new approach to our blog. We will update the things we have been doing recently as well as updating things from the past couple of months that we haven’t gotten to. A word of caution, some of these pictures are pretty graphic!

Phil and I just got back from an amazing morning at the Thaipusam festival; I don’t think you can get any more current than that!! Thaipusam is a Hindu festival celebrating “the birthday of Lord Murugan and his defeat of the evil demon Soorapadam with a lance.” There are several websites that have better descriptions of the festival, I would highly recommend checking them out of you are interested. The festival is basically a celebration of good over evil. Some devotees prepare themselves, going into a trance before being pierced with hooks on the back, chest and face. From the hooks hang ropes, limes or small metal pots similar to those carried by other devotees. These are seen as burdens to carry, or kavadi, as penance.

We arrived downtown at about 8:30 this morning, coffee cups in hand looking like total tourists. We ditched them
Thaipusam Essential IIThaipusam Essential IIThaipusam Essential II

Not only does he have his chest done he has the back hooks!
as soon as we could and walked to the starting area where the piercing was happening. It was incredible! Most of the men being pierced looked quite serene. They claim that their belief in Lord Murugan takes away the pain and prevents them from bleeding and scaring. Indeed we didn’t see anyone bleeding, and some guys must have had 100+ hooks in them. We watched several men go through the process of having the hooks put in their back; it was almost like an assembly line, once one guy was done the next stepped up. It wasn’t as gory as you might think! The scene was more peaceful knowing that these people went into this willingly and were surrounded by family and friends. We even saw one guy being held up while his family chanted with each piercing. I couldn’t tell exactly what they were saying, though it sounded like “wey-ley,” and I imagine it was to help him stay in the trance. We heard this all over the area where the piercings were happening.

I was starting to feel queasy so we headed back towards the hill temple where the devotees would be ending their walk. Along the
Morning walkMorning walkMorning walk

On our way to the starting area, devotees and their families on the walk to the hill temple.
road were brightly colored stalls with shrines to various Hindu gods. Most of these stalls were sponsored by local businesses and seemed to be in some sort of contest to get the most people to stop and dance in front of their stall. Dancing??? Oh yeah! Having the biggest, best and loudest stereo system blaring Tamil dance music is a must for Thaipusam!! I would highly recommend to anyone going to future Thaipusam festivals to bring earplugs! The further we walked the more crowded the route became. By the time we reached the hill temple area it was 11:30 and packed. We decided not to go up to the temple; it was hot even though it was overcast and I was hungry. We walked back to our car via a side street and got to see a part of Georgetown that we normally don’t see. Some of the houses were old Colonials and some were newer. There must have been some important people living there judging by how they were gated. Some even had double gates and guard houses! That is a very different life from what most Malaysians experience.

We had a great time at Thaipusam. Tomorrow night
Morning walk IIMorning walk IIMorning walk II

This guy has the limes on hooks.
we will be going to another festival, Chap Goh Meh, the 15th day of Chinese New Year. Hopefully we will have another blog entry and pictures up soon.

Selina & Phil


Additional photos below
Photos: 78, Displayed: 24


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Best templeBest temple
Best temple

By far the most intricate and beautiful shrine on the route.
Chinese devoteesChinese devotees
Chinese devotees

In Penang some of the Chinese participate in the festival.
Chinese devotees IIChinese devotees II
Chinese devotees II

Devotees and their kavadi, or burdens.
ShrineShrine
Shrine

Another beautiful shrine.
The startThe start
The start

An unassuming temple on a small side street is where it all starts.
The start IIThe start II
The start II

A group starting their walk. Some women carried urns, through we saw none with piercings.
Dancers IDancers I
Dancers I

These guys put on a great show. Drummers and a singer on bull-horn accompanied them.
Dancers IIDancers II
Dancers II

This guy has both the horizontal rod through the cheeks and the vertical rod through the tongue.
Piercing areaPiercing area
Piercing area

This was all happening in a parking lot near the starting temple.
PrepPrep
Prep

Being preped for his walk.


15th February 2006

Great Photo's
Loved your photo's and blog. I am off to Penang and Singapore next month. Cheers Linda www.penangtravelforum.com
3rd March 2006

Sensational
great coverage of the hindu festival..... we never get to see all this in Australia... Will definitely visit penang this april 2006..... cheers HARI (Melbourne)

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