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Published: October 5th 2007
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Sunset Cocktails - Oasis Restaurant
No better way to finish a lazy day by the pool, than cocktails at the best sunset restaurant in town... Langkawi hosts between 99 and 104 islands - depending on who you talk to and whether the tide is up or down. It's on the west coast of Malaysia, just south of the Thai border. Reminiscent of Thailand - but quieter, lazier and unspoiled by pushy touts peddling 'same same' t-shirts. Pantai Cenang, Langkawi's gorgeous main beach, features a wide strip of beach, with sand like cocaine (ironic in a country where drugs are a guaranteed death penalty) and fabulous palm trees overflowing with coconuts. There's one main road, with a strip of shops, budget hotels and restaurants which spill out onto the beach. I suspect Pantai Cenang is what Bali would have been like back in the day. Quite the find.
The plan was holiday before hard-core travel. Jessie, my dear friend and Port Melbourne housemate was flying in from Spain to join me for what can only be described as our very own 'end of season footy trip'. A sophisticated and classy one. Our choice of destination was the result of extensive SE Asia 'best beaches' research with every seasoned traveller and holidaymaker we knew. Our criteria was - somewhere new (ruling out Thailand), that was hot, had
a sensational beach, that was relaxed, with some kind of party atmosphere - guaranteed fun and relaxation. Simple. (And did I mention a pool bar?!).
On arrival at Langkawi, I secured a free taxi ride with two strapping young Danish lads - Erasmus and Lovejoy ('please call me LJ'!) on the promise of a beer. Slightly embarrassing when my hotel was of the 5 star variety and they were headed for the cheap and cheerful Lonely Planet recommendation down the road! The Pelangi was nothing short of sensational. The scent of garlic chilli prawns and mozzie coils filled the air, as I was escorted in a golf cart from the open air reception pavilion to our very own beach hut (the 'hutch' as Jessie affectionately named it). As night closed in, background music played and oil lanterns lit the hotel paths where signs warn of the danger of falling coconuts. Serious stuff! The hotel was bustling with visiting Spanish travel writers, so I suspect management had stepped things up just a notch! Staff were cheery and 50% hotel capacity (only 30% after the Spaniards left), meant exceptionally attentive service from arrival.
We'd arrived in Langkawi smack bang in
the middle of Ramadan. During this time, Muslims abstain from food, drink and sex from the break of dawn until sunset. Prayer sessions in mosques are dutifully attended and many businesses close during the day and open at night. Given that Langkawi's population consists of 80% malay-moslem - evening buffet feasts were served in street markets and restaurants every night. It also meant that every day as we lazed by the pool and ordering our daily cocktail/ice-cream/prawn salad feast off Mie, our waiter extraordinaire, we were completely insensitive to his likely hunger and dehydration. Langkawi's food was melt-in-your-mouth. Jessie worshipped Tomato Restaurants famous roti and the seafood with no exception was delicious.
With Jessie in town, suitably tanned from her Spanish sojourn, we quickly tracked down a local beach bar - Little Lylia's Chillout Cafe - where we soon became regulars. Run by the charismatic Malay/Spanish rastafarian "G" for seven years, its the only beach bar not bought out by the hotels. G has an English wife Nicky. "Where did you meet?", we asked. "Under that tree over there", he says (pointing to a hammock next to the bar). They now have two gorgeous little girls - Lylia and
Jessie & I
Another Pantai Cenang sunset Freesia.
After several days of hardcore banana-lounge action and a couple of massages, Jessie and I decided at least one tourist attraction was called for. So we dragged ourselves away from the pool to the Langkawi Cable Car which offers 360 degree views up to 710m above sea level. The going was just a little rocky at take off as the suspended car swung precariously up the double cliff face. Sure it was cloudy and the view rather dismal, but we saw a couple of waterfalls below. A hard day in the office. The other attractions on offer were more of the nature variety - safaris, the eagle farm, snorkelling etc. Fortunately we saw an eagle from the cable car, a few buffalos from the taxi and back at the hotel some chickens and cats with lopped tales wandered around (there are no dogs - they shoot them). Who needs a safari when you can DIY?!
There were a few things guaranteed to happen on any night out in Langkawi. As we took in to-die-for sunsets, the mosquitos would appear, followed by some kind of guitar/harmonica sing-a-long, dutifully performed by G and/or our talented Mebourne friend Ivy and
Evening Sing-a-long
Ivy, G and Anais play a "4 non-blondes" classic her resident fanclub. Next the German/Danish/Swedish/Nigerian backpacker contingent would appear sunburnt and hungover from the night before to take advantage of the AU$1 pints of Tiger and soon enough it was time to hit the reggae bar.
Apparently Langkawi has a history rich with legends, tales of pirates and submerged submarines, but the only legend we uncovered was that of the reggae bar. A literal timber shack in the middle of the jungle (well up a dirt road with potholes anyway), the reggae bar transforms a mixture of enthusiastic backpackers and scruffy local blokes into would-be rastafarians from 11pm every night. The Malay band are convinced they are Jamaican mon and belt out hours of tunes. One night our friend Ivy took to the stage and dramatically grew her fanclub on the back of a few quality tunes. On our last night, we visited a new, up-market haunt 'Sunba' to challenge the locals and English backpackers to a few games of pool. Ivy and I made no secret of our skills (or lack thereof) - but when our names came up on the chalkboard, we were in for a shock. An announcement was made, Men at Work's "Downunder" was
blasted from the speakers and a sheepish "Iry" and "M-oiyn-esy" (as they pronounced our names) slunk over to the pool table. Only to win three games straight... champions!
All too quickly, it was time to farewell Langkawi and Jessie - relaxed, chilled and ready to take on the world. Yep. Living the dream.
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Jess
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Here Here!!