We arrive in Laos


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Asia » Laos » West » Vientiane
December 15th 2015
Published: July 16th 2017
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Geo: 17.97, 102.61

We wake with the alarm at 05:30 and I go out for coffee and croissants for breakfast in the room whilst we pack our bag again.
Check-out at 06:30 and take a tuk-tuk about 20mins out of town to the bigger new bus station where the International bus is supposed to depart from. Fortunately my information seems to be correct and we buy tickets for the 08:15 departure then sit to wait for the bus to arrive. At 3.50GBP each for about 200km journey this seems excellent value. Bus arrives early and we board to make sure we get the seats we booked. 08:15 comes and passes but we haven't moved and it is nearer 09:00 before we actually pull out, for no apparent reason 45mins late.
We drive north to Udon Thani where we fortunately make a brief toilet stop before continuing to the border just beyond Nong Khai around midday.
We have all of our paperwork for both sides of the border already prepared as I keep a supply of forms etc at the house. We pass straight through Thai immigration then reboard the bus to cross the Mekong to Laos. On the Laos side it only takes about 15mins before we are back on the bus with a 30 day Laos visa in my passport. This is perhaps the smoothest border crossing we have ever had.
Driving off on the right/wrong ? side of the road into Vientiane – driving on the right here is something we will have to remember whilst we are walking around town. We are dropped off at the Talat Sao market bus station and take a jumbo to the Mai Namphu Hotel not too far away arriving just after 14:00.
Our first impressions are favourable which is always a good sign. We have a pleasant room on the first floor with a balcony that overlooks a garden courtyard.
We spend 20mins unpacking and settling in before going out to orientate ourselves although we are only just around the corner from where we stayed in 2009. We walk through Nam Phu fountain square which is unfortunately turned off. Last time we were here this was a nice restful place with flower garden and fountain but it has now been developed with restaurants, etc and doesn't look half as welcoming.
We make our way down to the Mekong where there is now a lovely park bordering the river with an enormous statue of King Sissavang Vong looking threateningly across the river at Thailand. Change some money at the rate of 12096 = 1GBP so we will be having fun trying to work out how much we are paying for stuff whilst we are here. A restaurant on the corner here is charging 40p for a small Beer Laos so things shouldn't be too bad. We continue through the riverside park to the old Presidential Palace. Built to house the French Governor, after independence it was used by King Sisavang Vong and later his son. Nowadays I believe it is only used occasionally for ceremonial purposes. Looks good, what a waste.
We walk on to Chedi That Dum, the black chedi, where the dodgy saviour dragon lives. It is believed to have once been coated in gold but this was taken home by the Thais on their last visit as a souvenir of Vientiane. It is also said to be the home of a seven headed dragon that appeared in 1828 and helped to protect the locals from the Thais. From what I have read it didnt do a particularly good job.
We are both really hungry by now having eaten next to nothing all day so far. We find a small place selling filled baguettes and as usual the bread is fantastic – perhaps the French are OK for something after all !! We return to our room about 16:15 for a shower and a stretch out. Neither of us are used to walking these days.
Go back out about 18:00 just as it is getting dark and walk to the night market that runs along the promenade next to the river. It is quite a nice set up but each stall is selling the same old stuff and it's not really that exciting. There are a few nice looking patu skirts that Jai wants before we leave but along with some local handicrafts that is about all the market has to offer us.
We are hungry again by now and haven't seen any foodstalls around the market. In situations like this we normally end up walking for miles and not agreeing on where or what to eat. There are a few places selling food from carts aong the side of the road opposite and we end up at a grubby looking pace, sat under a bus shelter, eating somtam, fried chicken and sticky rice, just as we do most days in Khamnadie. The stall didn't even have any beer !! This arrangement will be changing for the next couple of nights !!
We head back to the hotel in need of a goodnights sleep but after sitting on the bed for 10mins I realize I wont be dropping off just yet and go back out to have a beer. I buy from a small shop on the corner and sit outsode the room overlooking the courtyard for a while enjoying my first Beer Laos for quite a while. A chap comes out of his room along the corridor a bit and comes to join me with his beer. He is an Italian who is also here to refresh his Thai visa.


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