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Asia » Laos » West » Vientiane
November 7th 2008
Published: November 17th 2008
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As September came to an end, so did my time at the Tiger Temple. I wanted to stay long enough to witness one of the female tigers give birth, but my Thai visa had run out and I was racking up the fines for each day I overstayed. Just my luck, she ended up giving birth two days after I left, but I would be back to visit. I had about 3 weeks to travel until I had to be in Singapore so I decided to head up to Laos. My journey from the temple involved a scooter, a tuk tuk, a bus, another scooter, an overnight train, another tuk tuk, and finally a mini-bus. About 20 hours after leaving the temple, I was in Vientiane, the capital of Laos.

Laos is probably the most sleepy capital city I have ever visited. It's city center is easily navigable by foot and is located right on the banks of the Mekong river. Nobody seems to be in much of a hurry around here and I didn't seem to get hassled as much as other places in Asia. The tuk tuk drivers lounge in their hammocks and lean up just enough to
Presidential PalacePresidential PalacePresidential Palace

This is where the President of Laos resides.
call out "tuk tuk?" After I answer "no", they just recline back and rest. There is no hard sell here.

Vientiane has a few sights to see, but I was more interested in just a little R & R. Being a former French colony, the city has a great mix of European and Asian cuisine. I spent my mornings relaxing over a lazy breakfast on the terrace of the Scandanavian bakery and catching up on my reading and writing. I went on a walking tour to see some of the sights around town, which mostly consisted of different temples. The first temple I visited was Haw Pha Kaew. This temple didn't stand out really from the other ones that I had already seen on my trip, but its history was a bit intriguing. The Emerald Buddha, the same one resting in a huge golden temple in Bangkok, used to reside here. The Siamese came in and stole the statue in 1779 and it has resided in Bangkok, next to the king's palace, ever since. During another war with Siam, the Siamese tore down the temple in 1828. It was rebuilt in the 1930s, so the structure in place today
Colonial CollapseColonial CollapseColonial Collapse

Here is one of the old examples of French Colonial architecture falling into ruin.
isn't really that old, or that impressive to be frank.

Not too far from Haw Pha Kaew is the presidential palace. Not quite as impressive as the White House, but a pretty good pad none-the-less. Laos is a communist country, so I'm not too sure how they decide who gets to live there. In front of the entrance to the presidential palace is a double wide boulevard that leads away from the palace and straight into a structure known as Patuxai or "Victory Gate". Patuxai is Laos's answer to the Arc de Triumphe in Paris. It has four arches instead of de Triumphe's two. The top is capped by 5 towers and ornate decorations. I found it all a bit over the top and ugly. Interestingly enough, it would have never come about if it wasn't for America. The US had sent a load of concrete over in the 1960s to extend the runway at the Vientiane airport. Admittedly to help with the efforts of Air America, the not-so-secret CIA airline. Instead of extending the runway, the Laos government decided to build Patuxai instead. Thereafter, the Air America pilots referred to it as "The Vertical Runway".

A bit
A Cut Above The RestA Cut Above The RestA Cut Above The Rest

Just a regular barbershop by the side of the road in Vang Vien.
further out is Pha That Luang. This is Laos most important national monument and appears on their national seal. I like to refer of it as the golden stupa. It's an impressive sight as you start to creep up on it. The sunlight shimmered off of it as I strained to find a good camera angle. On closer inspection, the gold paint was starting to peel a bit. There were some helpful English speaking monks on hand to answer everyone's questions and I enjoyed speaking to them. The more I learned about Buddhism, the more I realized that you really have to commit yourself to it if you ever want to get a decent understanding of it.

Closer to the city center is the Namphou Garden Fountain. There is a large circular water fountain here, but it always seems to be turned off. I saw it on once during the celebration of the end of Buddhist lent, but otherwise it is turned off. On the north side of the fountain is a tall building that used to serve as the French cultural center. The top three floors were never used because the building was designed without an elevator (lift)
Elephant CaveElephant CaveElephant Cave

There are many caves around Laos. This one is called the elephant cave. See if you can make out the elephant in the rock.
in mind. Now it appears that the entire building has been abandoned, which is a shame because it still looks to be in pretty good condition.

The journey to Vientiane, and not to mention chasing tigers around all day, had made my muscles a bit tight and overdue for a proper massage. I read about Wat Sok Pa Luang in my trusty Lonely Planet guide. It is a herbal sauna secluded in the woods staffed with masseurs who live on site at the temple. When I first arrived, I wondered if I was in the right place. It is just a wooden structure on stilts in the middle of the woods. When arrived, I changed into a sarong and hit the sauna. It was just a wooden room with steam rising up from a vent in the floor. It had a pleasant smell to it and it was easy to understand why they called it an herbal sauna. After a rinse off, another sauna, another rinse, and a cup of tea, I was ready for a massage. There were about 6 massage mats all together and they were on an open platform with a roof over it so that
Just Another Day, in Paddy-RiceJust Another Day, in Paddy-RiceJust Another Day, in Paddy-Rice

Here is Kristy and me in a traditional Laos rice paddy, which is pretty much like every other rice paddy I have been to.
you had the sights and sounds of the forest all around you. I've had a number of massages throughout my journey, including a few in Thailand. Thai massages have the reputation of twisting you into a pretzel, but they have nothing on the Laos massage. Oh my god. There was one move where I was on my side and the guy put his foot on my torso while he yanked my arm. I felt my spine pop in about 5 places and even let out a bit of a yell. It was more of a shock than a discomfort. The worst part was that I knew he still had to the same thing to the other side. I was a bit tense when he started so he told me to relax and started counting to 3. However, he was quick to yank my arm on the number 2. I might have let a small yell escape after that. I must say though, it was the best massage I've ever had. My back felt like a million dollars after that. Not bad for less than $10!

After my R&R was complete in Vientiane, I headed on board a VIP bus
Ken and PaddyKen and PaddyKen and Paddy

Ken makes his way through the rice paddy...
north to Vang Vieng. Although the name VIP bus sounds very luxurious, it didn't quite seem that way. It was basically just a van with as many people wedged into it as possible. I didn't feel very important at all. I think the bus ride was about 6 hours or so. While on the bus, I met Ken from Ireland and Kristy from New York. Kristy was living in Tokyo and met up with Ken in Laos to travel around together. I would end up tagging along and we got to all explore Laos together. We found a good tour to go on the next day which included all of the major sights in the area. The town itself is pretty small and very backpackery. There's not much room for culture shock between the Australian pub and the cafes blaring out different episodes of "Friends" on their televisions.

Our tour started out by visiting "The Elephant Cave". There are many different caves around the area, but this one had a rock formation on the side wall that happened to resemble an elephant. The cave had the requisite golden Buddha and even a large "Buddha footprint" which seems to be
Tubin!Tubin!Tubin!

This is Vang Vien at its best! Floating down the river in an old tractor tire tube!
more of a rarity. After that cave we hiked through a rice paddy towards another cave. The tour's usual cave itinerary had to be altered. The police had forbidden tourists from visiting a particular cave in the area because apparently there was some rebel activity in the area and the police were restricting access to the cave in case the rebels were hiding out in there. It seemed very Jesse James like. I guess not everyone is too happy with the communist government in Laos. Our guide managed to find another cave for us to visit which tunneled a lot further into the ground than the elephant cave. We even had to get on our bellies and crawl through certain bits. A nice kebab lunch was prepared for us and then we were off to do the fun bit.

Vang Vieng is firmly cemented on the backpacker trail in Laos. Everyone who makes it to Indochina seems to find their way there, and people only come for one thing; tubing. I've heard fellow backpackers talking about it since I first arrived in New Zealand in January. It's almost become cliche, but that doesn't mean it's not fun. Vang Vieng
Look Out Below!Look Out Below!Look Out Below!

Here I am about to drop from the swing over the river in Vang Vien.
is located near a pleasant river with a gentle current. All of the travelers find their way to a spot upriver by a farm where old tractor inner tubes can be hired. After securing my butt in the middle of the tube, I begin my lazy float down the river. Although the scenery alone would ordinarily be a sufficient wow factor, the fun comes from all of the primitive bars that have been constructed every so often along the banks of the river. As I floated down the river, if I started to feel a bit parched, I would just make my way towards the bank. As I would get closer, a member of the bar would toss a life preserver out to me and pull me in. Music would be pumping out of the speakers and Beer Lao (the national beer) would be flowing out the bottles. The best part though was the rope swings that had been constructed.

It just so happened that the first bar that Ken, Kristy, and I floated into had the biggest swing on the river. It didn't look that tall from the water, but once I climbed the stairs and peered over
SwingersSwingersSwingers

Just left the platform and swinging out over the river.
the edge I had a different opinion. There's not many safety precautions on the platform. Just a guy at the top that passes a handle over to you. I'm fairly tall and I had to stretch to get both hands firmly grasped on it. I don't really have a fear of heights, but I get a bit anxious when I experience that sinking feeling the moment I jump off something high. I figured that since I did the bungy jump in New Zealand, this would be a piece of cake. I quickly realized that the bungy is pretty fail-safe. Once you commit yourself to jumping, there's not really a whole lot that you can do This was different in that I was totally in control of when to splash down, possibly at the wrong moment. As GnR's "Welcome to the Jungle" blared out of the sound system, I gripped the handle firmly with both hands, took a deep breath and stepped off the platform. The drop was instantaneous. My first thought was, "I hope this cable holds!" As I swung across the river, a triumphant yell broadcast from my lungs and I marveled at how much speed I acquired in
Roling Down the RiverRoling Down the RiverRoling Down the River

Just a lazy float down the river in Vang Vieng
such a short time. My hands were white-knuckled around the bar, but my feet were furiously running in place. When I came out at the apex of the swing, there was no way I could let go. The water seemed too far below me. I swung back towards where I had started from and came within a meter or two of the platform. I was swinging back towards a second apex. I thought "this is it" and went to let go, but my fingers would not obey. Somewhere on the down-swing, maybe a second later, I managed to let go and plunge in the water. The water was crisp and deep. After I surfaced, I swam my way towards the shore and the lifesaver man reeled me in. It was exhilarating! Kristy went next and was just as pumped by the experience as me. We took turns going again and again and finally convinced Ken to give it a go. Amazing! There were other rope swings along the river, but none of them topped our first one.

Halfway down the river, we entered another cave with our group. We hiked down a path to where a stream was leading
Fish on a StickFish on a StickFish on a Stick

This grilled fish was so amazing that I had it two nights in a row.
into a cave. We hopped into our tubes and were led further into the cave. When it started to get too dark, our guide handed us each a candle and we floated further into the cave by candlelight. It was relaxing, but I couldn't wait to get back to the next rope swing. We floated into town just as the sun was going down. Beautiful.

The next day Ken, Kristy, and I boarded another "VIP" bus north to Luang Prabang. This one took us about 10 hours or so through many winding roads up and down the mountains. I had to keep my eyes closed for a part of it to avoid getting sick. We picked up Andrea, from Germany, as another member for our posse. We would all end up exploring Luang Prabang together.

Luang Prabang is a lovely town. The majority of its buildings are from the French colonial era and provide pleasant streets to stroll down. There are the requisite temples including one at the top of a hill in the middle of the town that revealed a brilliant view over the town. The town sits almost within a peninsula as two rivers join together
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Before we set our kayaks into the river, this elephant traveled across the river and up the bank to reveal that she was pulling a huge tree trunk!
around it. The town has a great night market with lots of local crafts being sold, but I preferred the food street. Food on a stick is the order of the day, and I really enjoyed the grilled fish on a stick. It was stuffed with lemongrass, rubbed with sea salt, and grilled over charcoal for an amazing taste. The posse and I found a tour company run by a soft spoken Canadian who seemed genuinely in love with Laos. His tours used local people as guides and includes stops in villages that were ofd the tourist trail. He was knowledgeable about the 3 different types of people who live either at the top of the mountains, in the middle, or at the base; and was hopeful that we might take away some knowledge of the people as well. We booked a tour with him to include canoeing, swimming in a waterfall, elephant riding, touring a village, and more kayaking. It would all start early the next day.

We started our tour by taking a ride to the river to launch our canoes. When we arrived, we were fortunate enough to witness an elephant, driven by a man sitting
Village KidsVillage KidsVillage Kids

These girls were busing making handicrafts to sell in the local market. It all looked primative until one of their mobile phones began to ring.
on his neck, making his way across the river and up the bank where we were standing. It was only when the elephant exited the water that I could see that he was pulling a large tree trunk behind him the whole way! He went right up the bank and stopped to leave the log next to a pile of other logs which I assumed he had pulled earlier. Forget pickup trucks; this is the best all terrain hauler there is, plus it is amphibious! We boarded our canoes and headed off down the river. We had a local guide with us who was able to answer any questions we had and more importantly proved to be a lot of fun. Our first stop was a local hill tribe village. It was a real working village and was not dependent on tourism for its existence. I had been to another village in Laos where a concrete path was laid in a horseshoe shape around the village and along the way was nothing but children with sad faces attempting to sell different crafts to the tourists. The village looked like it was constructed alongside a highway for no other reason but
Happy KidsHappy KidsHappy Kids

These kids were playing around when we visited the village. In general, all of the kids in the village seemed pretty happy.
to extract money from the tourists by exploiting the children. It was very depressing. The village that our guide took us to on this day however, felt like a real village. There were animals roaming around as well as women and children. Although the children were not all fully clothed, they did seem happy. We witnessed a group of boys playing a game where they were throwing their sandals trying to hit an object in the dirt further away. They were all laughing and smiling and there wasn't anything manufactured about it. On one stoop we met some girls and their mothers who were busy making bags and what-not, which would be later sold in the market. It felt like I was in a really remote area, up until the point when one of the girl's mobile phone rang and she went into the hut to answer it. I guess the world really is getting flatter.

After departing the village, we boarded our canoes again and headed down river towards a waterfall. This waterfall was set back from the river a bit and stepped down many different levels, creating small pools along the way. We got in and had
Don't Go Chasing WaterfallsDon't Go Chasing WaterfallsDon't Go Chasing Waterfalls

This waterfall was brisk but refreshing.
a swim for a bit. I tried sliding down the different levels, but it wasn't quite as smooth as I had imagined it would be.

Next door to the waterfalls that we were swimming in were a group of elephants who were giving rides. Andrea and I climbed on board one elephant while Kristie and Ken climbed aboard another one. Andrea and I would sit on a wooden bench which had been secured on top of the elephant. Our driver would straddle the elephant's neck and direct him from there. I could feel the elephant's ears hit my feet as he flapped them about. He walked up and down muddy banks and across a river. No surface seemed to slippery and no angle too steep. I would have fallen on my ass for sure if I tried to climb the muddy bank myself; I don't know how he did it. After a successful trip around the waterfall area, we rewarded our elephants by feeding them bananas. It was hard to pose for a good picture because there would be about 3 or 4 elephant trunks sniffing out the food in my hands. They seemed to be much friendlier to
Elephant TracksElephant TracksElephant Tracks

Following in the footsteps of giants.
feed than the monkeys were in Indonesia.

After our elephant ride, we boarded our kayaks and headed back out onto the river for the final leg of our tour as we paddled our way home for the next 2 hours. Along the way we passed groups of kids who were playing around in the water naked. They would engage in splash fights with us as we would float closer to them. They seemed like the happiest kids in the world. Our guide was a lot of fun and joined in on our splash fights between our canoes. We ended up capsizing his canoe and eventually everyone was in the water. It was a nice way to break up the canoeing and it was even more fun watching Ken trying to get back in the canoe. He must have tipped the whole thing over about a dozen times, taking Kristy with it each time. We floated into town just as the sun was going down.

Although we were all pretty beat from the canoeing, there wasn't time to rest. We were going to experience the nightlife in Luang Prabang Laos style! In the middle of the town is a
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It's hard to stand still when you've got elephant trunks sniffing all over you.
strip of bars that all of the tourists go to. However, we learned about a few Laos discos further away from the center where all of the locals go. After dinner, we set out to find them. We picked up Toby along the way. We met him the previous night and he was up for a little Laos disco was well. We arrived at the first one at about 10pm. It was a big place with big booths and a band looked like it was going to be playing on the stage later in the night. However, the place was absolutely empty. Our table was the only one in the place with people at it. I thought this odd since all of Laos has a 12 am curfew. Being a communist country and all, the police don't want anyone roaming the streets late at night. Most places stop serving at 11pm and kick people out at 11:30. However, there always seem to be a few places that are still open after curfew because their owners pay off the police to do so. About 30 minutes after we arrived, the place was packed. People had filed in just in time for
Feeding TimeFeeding TimeFeeding Time

Sharing a bananna with my escort.
the band to take the stage. It looked as if our table held the only western people in the entire club. The band seemed to play Laos songs and the people on the dance floor danced pretty slowly at a safe distance in a traditional manner. One of the dances looked just like the electric slide. Even though I have been to many different weddings over the years, I have still not yet mastered the electric slide. I thought I would give it a go anyway though. I was too busy watching the girls feet next to me to notice that I was about a foot taller than everyone else on the dance floor. I was a giant! After the band ended their set, the DJ came on and played more modern music. Everyone on the dance floor started grinding with each other and they didn't seem so innocent anymore.

We were kicked out before midnight and went to another club that stayed open till 1am. This one was more dance floor than club and it was only playing the latest beats. For some reason, all over Thailand and Laos I kept hearing "Low" by Flo Rida. They can't get enough of that song. It's like going to a club in London and hearing "Billie Jean". It's guaranteed to happen. After that club closed, there was only one more place that was open, the bowling alley. So our crew headed to the bowling alley to bowl a few frames. Unusually, they didn't use bowling shoes, so everyone just bowled barefoot. Bowling next to us was a lady boy who I think was starting to take a liking to Ken.

The time had come to say goodbye to Andrea, Ken, and Kristy as they all made their separate ways, but luckily, I met some more people. I happened to meet Karolina in a cafe as I was writing out one of my blog entries. She was originally from Poland and was traveling with her friend Marzana. Turns out that they were staying in the same home stay as me, right across the hallway! They were coming from the north and traveling south, which was the same direction as me. I ended up spending the next day with them. We traveled up to the temple at the highest point in the middle of Luang Prabang and then on to another
CastawaysCastawaysCastaways

All along the river we were greeted with kids playing in the water and challenging us with splash fights.
waterfall. This one was really tall and it took us maybe an hour to hike all the way to the top of it and then down the other side. It was beautiful. Afterward, Karolina and I found a bar close by that had a Foosball table. We had some pretty intense matches and I must admit she surprised me with her skills. I think we made an unstoppable force when we teamed up. We topped off the night with another round of Laos disco as "Low" played out over the speakers.

The next day I had to hop a flight down to Vientiane and Karolina and Marzana were heading down to Vang Vieng on a bus to experience the tubing. I would meet up with them in a few days at Vientiene. In the meantime, I was chasing down fireballs. I first heard about the Naga Fireballs from Rod at the Tiger Temple. Apparently, every October on the full moon, which corresponds with the end of Buddhist lent, bubbles rise out of the Mekong river and burst into fireballs which then rise up into the air for about 10 meters or so. There are a few locations along Thailand
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We saw these guys training while we were kyaking. It was just before the end of Buddhist lent. This is a big time for festivals and boat races.
and Laos where this happens. Some years there are lots of them and other years there are none. It is pretty hit and miss. Nobody knows why and some people think it is a big hoax. The legend is that there are these large dragon-snakes that swim deep within the Mekong and they breath fire which bubbles to the surface. I don't think that Nagas even exist, although I did see a picture of one in a market that was captured by some American service men in the 1970's. I was skeptical of it, and sure enough, it looks to be a fake. That doesn't mean the fireballs don't exist. I asked around with the locals to find a good place to view it. I got mixed responses from them as to if it exists or not. Some had claimed to have seen them, others had not. I decided to head to a small town called Pakson. It was maybe 100 kilometers or so away from Vientiane and right on the Mekong across from Thailand.

I boarded a local bus and headed off for what should have only been an hour or two journey. However, our bus broke down on
Explosive PlantingExplosive PlantingExplosive Planting

Laos has the unfotunate title of being the most bombed country in the world (per capita). I won't mention which country is responsible. There are plenty of unexploded ordinances in Laos which many people have found interesting uses for.
the way; twice! Luckily, we seemed to have our own mechanic on board. We would all disembark the bus and wait on the side of the road while he would crawl under and go to work. No one seemed too fussed by it and I think it was a pretty common occurrence. Once in town, I found what might have been the only guest house, which was really nice. I started to head down towards the river just as the sun was going down. It looked as if I was the only white guy in this town. I finally felt like I had escaped the tourist trail in Laos. I hadn't made it too far when I heard "Hey You, come drink." I looked over and a family was sitting outside of their house having dinner. I figured, "why not?" and went to join them. I had heard of how generous and friendly Laos people are renown for. This doesn't always get conveyed on the tourist trail where everything has a price. I sat down with Ong, his brother and their wives and kids. He poured me a short glass of Beer Lao with ice and I drank it down
UnbearableUnbearableUnbearable

These asiatic black bears are chilling out in their sanctuary.
and passed it around as seemed to be the custom. Ong was a lawyer and his brother a surgeon. Although they had prestigious jobs, they still lived modest lives as there is not much opportunity to get ahead in Laos. Ong spoke very little English, but we seemed to understand each other. I hopped on the back of his scooter and followed his wife and kids down to the river where a festival was under way. There were makeshift boats constructed out of bamboo and littered with lit candles. They would slowly float down the river and became beautiful silhouettes against the night sky. Midnight came and went and unfortunately, I did not see any fireballs😞 Ong had not seen them before, so I was thinking my chances were pretty slim. I had a great time anyway and made a few new friends. I never had to pay for a beer and I feel like I got a taste of the real Laos and the real people who are just as friendly and generous as ever. I just needed to get off the beaten path to experience it.

The next day I made my way back to Vientiane to
Meat on a StickMeat on a StickMeat on a Stick

Vientienne was in party mode ahead of the end of Buddhist lent. There were tons of stalls all trying to sell the same thing. Lots of different types of meat on a stick.
meet up with Karolina. Luckily, the bus did not break down on the way back, but unfortunately for me, all the seats were taken. No worries though, because the conductor placed plastic stools down the middle of the aisle for us to sit on for the next 2.5 hours. Ahh the joys of travel. Back in Vientiane, I met up with Karolina. We got a late start to the night and experienced what it was like to try and find dinner as the curfew was closing in. Not easy to do, but we managed. We ended up in some hotel bar that didn't have any Vodka, Whiskey, or Rum. Beer Laos again! We hired a scooter and took in the major sights including climbing to the top of Patuxai. I had a great time and was lucky enought to travel with her and Marzana further south down to Ko Tao island in Thailand for a little beach time. Unfortunately, I had to finally leave them so that I could make it back to the Tiger Temple for a glimpse of the newest addition to the tiger family and then onto Singapore for a few days before I headed back to
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My bus broke down twice on the way to Pakson. Luckily, we seemed to have a mechanic on board.
London. The Asian leg of my world tour was coming to an end...


Additional photos below
Photos: 38, Displayed: 38


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Fire waterFire water
Fire water

The celebration in Pakson included makeshift boats fitted with candles floating down the Mekong river.
We are familyWe are family
We are family

Here is Ong and his daughter as we watch the candle lit boats float down the Mekong.
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Arc de Ugly

This is the Patuxay or Victory Gate of Vientiane. According to the sign posted on it: "built in 1962, but never complete due to the country's turbulent history. From a closer distance, it appears even less impressive, like a monster of concrete."
Laos DiscoLaos Disco
Laos Disco

This was the electric slide, I think. I was too busy trying to copy my neighbor's footwork that I failed to realize that I am a giant!
Phat RidePhat Ride
Phat Ride

Andrea and me on the ultimate off-road vehicle.
Paddle PowerPaddle Power
Paddle Power

On the river with Andrea and our guide, who was really cool.
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Tuk Tuk

Our chariot awaits us!
Enjoying a Beer Lao with friendsEnjoying a Beer Lao with friends
Enjoying a Beer Lao with friends

Andrea, Toby, Ken, Kristy, and me all relax in the only place open late for drinking in Luang Pabang; the bowling alley.
This is how I rollThis is how I roll
This is how I roll

Who needs bowling shoes? In Laos, you just go bearfoot.
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Ladyboy and Ken

I remember this girl being a lot better looking after a few Beer Laos.
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Traveling Buddies

Marzana and Karolina enjoying a much deserved lunch.
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Golden Girl

Karolina poses in front of the golden stupa in Vientiane.


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