A slow boat up the Mekong

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Slow boating the Mekong River is another popular activity in Laos. I was doing it backwards, going upriver from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai in the Golden Triangle. There I would re-enter Thailand from the north.

Our slow boat departed Luang Prabang in the morning and proceeded up river at a steady pace, relentlessly against the stream. The captain knew this section of the river and was constantly adjusting course, sometimes midstream and sometimes only 5 to 10 metres from the bank, weaving between rocks, past swirling eddies and running over ripples. Infrequently the engine would rev harder and the boat would roll slightly as we passed through a turbulent patch. The Mekong flows well in July and takes on a light brown colour like milky coffee.

The boat pushed upstream through an endless valley of verdant hills, past villages, fishermen with nets, kids swimming and water buffalo of two colours: black and pinkish-white albinos. A pleasant journey but sitting on a boat for hours in the heat and humidity was tiring. The vinyl covered soft seats assigned to tourists became sticky and uncomfortable; it was better to sit on wooden benches, sit on the floor or stand. Late afternoon and with the thermometer cooling, I gave in and purchased a Beer Lao from the small bar onboard (fairly priced at 15,000 kip). It took 10 hours to reach Pakbeng where we stopped overnight and changed boats. The river is not navigable at night.

Pulling into the landing, we were greeted by fresh plastic bags of rubbish floating downstream. Expecting an outpost, I found Pakbeng surprisingly developed in response to the steady flow of tourists passing through. There are guesthouses, restaurants, even a hotel and a place that looks resort-like. I was told one can pay 160 dollars to do this trip in an air conditioned VIP boat with accommodation at the hotel/resort. I took a cheap room in a simple wooden guesthouse and enjoyed a cold shower as soon as it was vacant. Soon out and walking the streets, I found there was nothing much to do here at night. Touts offered ganja and opium; the guide books say that the opium is not the real deal.

Morning in Pakbeng and catering for the tourists resumed with small stalls along the road selling sandwiches, bottled water and snacks. Wandering indecisively up the street and through the market twice, I finally locked onto a hole-in-the-wall restaurant where I had the best noodle soup ever for breakfast; spicy and thick with solids. Today’s boat was smaller and, like yesterday, not full. A little woman started the engine and pushed us out into the stream, the man sat at the wheel. With some hesitation the boat started moving upstream. Nothing to entertain me and tired of talking to the Canadian school teacher and her mum, I finally started writing up my travel blogs.

Nearing Thailand and the Golden Triangle, the valley opened up and the river widened. I saw a Thai flag on the left bank at 1600H and we reached Huay Xai at 1800H where the border was closed for the day. I had my last Beer Lao (two bottles) that evening. In the morning I had no kip left for breakfast and advanced to the Laos border post. Down at the boat landing and milling around the immigration counter, the tourists looked rather ordinary, maybe they were day tripping. I saw an older Swedish woman, just arrived, with a large-sized Swedish flag on her pack. On both sides of the river security was lax and each traveller had to find their own way.

The Thai border town of Chiang Kong was busy, quite a shock after a week in Laos. A tourist express bus was leaving to Chiang Mai for 250 Baht. I looked at the bored travellers waiting, abandoned that plan and took a local bus for 211 baht. I had to walk about 2 kilometres to find the local bus and wait a couple of hours for its departure. I ate lunch and paid a sewing woman in the market to adjust the straps on my backpack. After a long drive through an attractive countryside and stopping in every town, the bus arrived quite late in Chiang Mai but before dark.

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Photos

Bendy boats
Sometimes lens distortion can be used for a creative effect. Pakbeng.

Not so slow
Haulin’ ass up the Mekong in a 'slow' boat.

Offerings for the engine
And this could be why we reached Pak Beng without incident.

Make my lunch
Sandwich girl in Pakbeng.