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Published: September 3rd 2009
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So, about a month ago I read an article in Lonely planet magazine, written by the founder of Lonely planet himself, Mr. Wheeler. In it, he mentioned a hike in Northern Laos, so I was keen to see if I could get there. So often, I read the articles, and just add it to my wish list of travel. This time however, it became possible. Only 3 hours in a Sangthaew (like a tuk tuk) from Luang Prabang and so we went in the hope of finding the hike he had written about.
The Sangthaew ride itself was interesting. We rocked up at the station to be pointed in the direction of a rickety old metal frame with an engine, and our bags were chucked on top. Squeezed in to the max, with luggage and people everywhere, it was a cosy bumpy ride and by the end I had lost all feeling in my left bum cheek! It was however, a great way to travel, with the breeze and the locals, one of which Ben shared his ipod with! Most definitely worth the bumpy ride.
Once we arrived, I was really glad we had made the journey. We were
completely out of the towns, and surrounded by trees and limestone cliffs, and of course the wide river we are following around asia! It was good to be in rural Laos and we found a lovely riverside, basic bamboo hut. As I lay on the balcony hammock, I think I'm going to like the Nong Khiaw! We went for an exploratory walk, and saw people showering in water from the stream, kids running around in the dusty lanes and people riding motor bikes with hunting guns...such a different way of life. We walked for over an hour, towered over by limestone cliffs and past rice paddies.
The 100 waterfalls walk was a memorable day. We took a boat an hour down river from Nong Khiaw, and saw a deer swimming in the river along the way. I found it interesting that I saw it as a cute animal having a swim, whereas my guide's first thought was that it could be a potential dinner if it could be hunted! Once we arrived at Done Khuon village, we began to walk through rice paddies and a few streams surrounded by stunning scenery. Sadly I also discovered that leeches are not
the most pleasant creatures, and unfortunately they are particularly attracted to me! Luckily the guide showed me how to grab a leaf and rip them off! At first I was typically girly and squeamish….by the end I was ripping them off gladly!
Once at the base of the waterfalls, we began to literally walk up them, and the rocks actually had some grip, they were not too slippery. Some waterfalls we went around the outside, or up a bamboo ladder, but many we simply waded through and walked up. It was surreal but fantastic at the same time! The final fall was very powerful and we could stand right in it getting soaked right through! It was a great reward after climbing up the previous falls to a fair height.
Above the final fall we enjoyed a local Lao finger food lunch of sticky rice, bamboo shoots, chilli aubergine, omlette, cucumber and pork. Then we began the descent down the hill round the edge of the waterfalls, collecting more leeches on the way! Once we got back to the village we enjoyed the boat ride back to Nong Khiaw - a great day walking in water!
Thank
you Mr. Lonely Planet!
The Laap specialty I had for dinner topped the day off - a spicy traditional dish served with sticky rice - recommended.
After a short yet fantastic stay in Nong Khiaw, it was once again time to move on to our next destination with an interesting day of travel ahead of us........
J x
One thing to note....there are no cash machines or money exchanges in Nong Khiaw - bring what you need.
It's all pretty basic - cold showers etc.
The waterfall was 260,000 kip pp for 2 pax. 190,000 kip pp for 3 pax...and got cheaper the more people there were.
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