Vietnam - not quite yet

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Laos is to Thailand what Nepal is to India - poor, but so much friendlier. At the heart of the communist utopia, which never once felt threatening or represive, is the ancient kingdom seat of Luang Prabang. Yet despite the options of a 13hr bus (our choice) or 2 day boat (which we heard is hell on earth) this is a tourist mecca the likes of which neither of us ever imagined. Lao may be ranked 114th in the world for development and have the 4th worst press in the world, but someone must be talking because the word is out. This place is awash with coffee shops, 'modern antiques' and more restaurants than a city three times its size. Somehow, however, in some weird twist of Laoatian logic they have turned it into one of the most relaxing places on earth. This is the town Chaing Mai wants to be (should be/probably was before the invasion of the falang), home to hidden temples and giant buddhas pearched on the hill. Home comforts miraculously disguised through Laoation cooking. This place is on the very cutting edge of tourism and yet clings to its riverside French-colonial charm with a relaxed ease that belies any possible tension such change can bring. The Laoations love the business, they love the tourists, the tourists love them and everybody loves Laung Prabang.

Despite time constraints and a heat that caused spontanious floods of sweating before the hotel room door had even closed (ah the wonders of air con) we stuck around, unable to leave this haven of calm on the banks of the Mekong. This place hadn't even made it onto our first adventurous plan through South East Asia and what a mistake that turned out to be. There may only be 2 cash machines in town, and neither works over new year, but when Beer Lao 'big bottle' only cost 7,500 kip who cares (XE says that about 40p). Throw in the exploits of the obligatory night market where a good set of baffies can be picked up for only 20,000 (110p) this is a place you can spend some time in ... and we did.

A little too much time actually, although it did give us the opportunity to venture past the tourist town and head out to the locals new year market and gambling hub of the Greater Mekong (it's only allowed at Lao New Year 10th-18th April). Along with the time old classics of crab, chicken, frog, prawn and match box shooting with air pistols we came across a true Lao favourite. 3 darts, lots of balloons - 3 hits wins a prize. Now when you bear in mind that a prize can range from a bottle of medicinal looking red bull to a jar of rotten picked eggs this becomes an opportunity too good to miss.

Unfortunately, all we can conclude from our evenings attempts is that Nic sucks at darts. She claims the darts were rigged and to be honest she does have a point. No-one seemed able to successfully get three in a row, me thinks they cheat, but for 1,000 kip (about 6p) a go we could play all night. This, however, would have meant missing out on many of the culinery delights that were not available back in tourist town. Cold slimey noodles wrapped in leaves, stir-fry in a bag and the always popular satay chicken feet. Adding once getting to the 'weird foods I've tried count' I'm now at least three ahead of the still squeamish Nic - mmm mmm crunchy!

But even with the prospect of the upcoming water fight and more daily soakings we couldn't stay for ever and must make the journey to the mountains, across the boarder and down toward Hanoi, Vietnam. This, however, did not happen exactly as planned (see previous entry) and so we flew instead from Laung Prabang International Airport a place that makes Prestwick look space-age.

For an unexpected addition to our trip that neither of us had really heard or read much about before coming, Laos proved to be one of the highlights of the trip so far. A place where the people and their hospitality show that economic development and infrastructure can only go so far and I can only say that for

Laos - Stay Another Day ... I think i just might.

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