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Published: August 9th 2007
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Luang Prabang is a very beautiful city surrounded by green mountains and clay coloured waters. The whole city was listed as a world heritage site since 1995 by UNESCO. Consequently it gets a lot of tourists and you can see by the amount of guesthouses being built that those numbers will only increase over the years to come.
We spent four days here and really didn’t do a great deal as we were feeling a little rough around the edges from some previous culinary delights consumed across the border. That said we did wonder around a bit enjoying the riverside views. We visited a handful of the 43 temples as well as a couple exhibitions dedicated to the local hill tribe, the “Hmong people” and examples of their textile and woodwork skills. The Hmong people make up nearly 7% of the Laos’ population. They are thought to originate from Tibet and Mongolia, having moved southward through China in the early ninetieth century. Enough history there! Also while we were in Luang Prabang it rained quite heavily over a couple of afternoons and that was entertainment in itself. We settled down outside our room on the balcony, BeerLao in hand and
just sat and watched the thunder and lightning crack and illuminate the skies above.
Luang Prabang was our introduction to Laos and Lao People and it didn’t disappoint. Everyone’s pretty laid back, just going about their own business without paying too much attention to what that funny looking foreigners doing stood outside looking up and down the street for the past ten minutes trying to figure out where he is!! We also got minimal hassle from people trying to sell things. No one tried to get you on their tour or in their guesthouse. The only time was with some of the kids that wonder up and down the main street usherette style, trying to sell bracelets. Each day they ask you and each day their stories become a little more designed to pull on your heartstrings. A little to professionally delivered to believe it was all quite that bad. One girl no more than six or seven went through the routine on Jo to no avail, but this time as a last resort piped up with “Well can you just buy me a can of Pepsi then?” I think she would have had better luck if she were
selling ice cream! Don’t hate us too much for this as we were reliably informed that anyone selling things in town were doing alright for themselves, it was the rural people that are the poor ones and I’ll quote you some information on that one in a bit.
We had a couple of memorable meals here. One was in a restaurant right on the edge of the Nam Khan River. It hadn’t long stopped raining and as we sat looking out of this open terraced restaurant we watched a handful of locals’ hand fishing with nets, some up to their knees and others up to their necks! It was set against the dimming light with the lush green mountains in the back ground, beautiful. The other meal was at the Lao Lao Garden and it was like going into Santa’s grotto! Behind the bar area a garden paradise wound its way back towards the hillside. The path was lit by candles and elaborate light shades hanging from trees and every so often there were nooks and crannies tucked away under trees or behind shrubs where you could sit and enjoy a drink or something to eat. It was pretty
special and the food was good too! It was also at the Lao Lao Garden that we got to read some interesting facts about Laos which were highlighted at the back of the menu. I’m going to share a couple with you as they will give you a better understanding of the people and the country.
The concept of possession is completely foreign to Lao people. This is illustrated by the fact that the word for “mine” and “yours” is the same.
The only things made in Laos are basic farm crops, handicrafts, wood products, cement, electricity, cigarettes, Pepsi, and BeerLao (owned by Carlsberg!). Absolutely everything else is imported.
There is no public health care available in Laos which means that when family members get sick, they will probably die.
If you think property values are bad at home then you wouldn’t want to be renting over here as rising inflation has skyrocketed rent for say something which would have fetched $500/year three years ago, now costs $500/month!
The average income is still around $300 per year.
Last but not least there is a government curfew! All people should be back to wherever they
are legally registered to be staying by midnight. Whereas for tourists this law is loosely enforced business owners who violate the law by remaining open past curfew risk the chance of being fined, arrested or worse still losing their license to remain a business.
This last one isn’t particularly a bad thing either as the beer is so cheap here it stops people visiting for the wrong reasons. I’m sure the locals of Benidorm or Magaluf would agree!
Because of our aforementioned illness we didn’t get to see either of the areas main tourist attractions. The Tam Ting Cave (Pak Ou Cave) is famous for its collection of more than 4000 Buddha statues, and the something or other waterfall, but to be truthful we don’t feel we missed out as we had an amazing traditional foot and back massage instead!
I would like to finish by saying Laos Airlines are great, they even leave early if all the passengers turn up on time!! You’ll have to ask Jo’s opinion on the safety side of things though! I think the seat belts are a bit iffy and she didn’t seem to like that when you push the seat uprights
from behind they fold down to the base!! Never mind, a merely spurious matter to me ; )
PPS. Happy belated wishes to Claire who celebrated her Birthday on the 2nd. Lots of love to you and the boys xxxx
Also Happy Birthday to Jason on the 10th of July & Ella on the 12th we'll be thinking of you xxxx
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Mike & Claire
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Hi guys, thank you for my Happy Birthday!! Still having fun I see, will you really want to come back home? And if you do will you still blog when you're back home :s. Can't wait to speak to /see you both soon xxx